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Also.in the pile of stuff it came with is either oil or trans extenal.cooler, , radiator and ac condenser.. apparently these guys were continuing to load stuff in bed of truck while.inwas strapping motor down..
I'm starting a similar swap with my 1985 XJ6. My LT1 came from 1995 Caprice cop car, with only 35,000 miles, unfortunately that was 20 years ago when it was wrecked and it has been sitting somewhere since then. Our engines look similar except mine has more grass, weeds and mouse nests than yours, but I would think your motor is still useable. Enjoy.
Dave
I got to see mine running before I bought it.
still going to go through it asmileage is unknown.
I kind of got it onto the stand last night, but my bolts were 3 inches too long. So I need to go buy some 2.5s. Stripped a bunch off while it was in bed of truck waiting for a buddy to bring his host... Looks like a normal enginen nce you remove the bundle of snakes..
I snapped off two exhaust manifold bolts!!!!
No hig deal as heads are going to machine shop anyways, but damn!!! Been soaking them with PB blaster since saturday... and down pipe nuts came off easy.. thought I was doing good after yesterdays screw up...
All I need to do now is find one of my many 5/8 sockets to remove rockers and heads and then find correct size bolts to use puller for crank hub....
Enough for today though..... probably enough for the week as daughter is rowing at the states regatta in Sarasota this weekend, and it's a Friday through Sunday affair, which means tomorrow is packing day, I also was supposed to take the hospitality trailer there, not sure it that's still on my plate or not!!
Last edited by Darrenmb; Apr 25, 2019 at 06:37 AM.
I'm sorry the stud broke, Darren, That's just downright Poor!
Have fun at the regatta. In years to come your daughter may not remember you were there, but she will Certainly remember if you aren't!
I can tell you how I know that!
(';')
I did actually get a couple of hours to fiddle last night, stripped motor as much as I could (couldnt get front hub off, broke my old puller and bent a new one..) so I gave up and played with the harness.. looks like hookup is going to be a lot simpler than I thought being as it was already a transplant.
I do have a couple of questions though...
1, speedo hookup.... do I have to splice the harness for two feeds off of the tail of transmission? Or can I use vss output wire from pcm? I know I can't just hook it up, but looking for where my feed will.come from.
2, on the the clear pcm connector, pin 14 is for a brake switch, normally hot, 0 volts when brakes applied. What is this for and can I delete it? It's not in the wire delete list, so I assume its needed for something.
3, just out of curiosity l, can I use the shorty block hugger headers that came with engine? Or should I just sell them and look for some ram horns? They are brand new still.in box...
ITEM 1:
(QUOTE) "The Jaguar Speedometer circuit (cruise control, interface, interval counter, speedo, etc.) needs an 8000 PPM signal as put out by the Jag transducer. The GM ECM/PCM is looking for a 4000 (TBI - 2000 PPM) signal from the VSS). OBD 1 (On Board Diagnostic version 1 ) GM used a VSS buffer on some applications to achieve the proper signal for the various diff ratios that might be used ... These can be used when the trans output comes from a reluctor wheel on the trans main shaft rather than a mechanical gearset for speedo output. Also the speedo will not read correctly unless the trans output is the same as the Jaguar trans (old BW 66) was,... .447. SO you will need an 8000 PPM signal for the Jag speedo circuit stuff, and a 2000 or 4000 PPM for the GM ECM/PCM. to make it all work well". SunCoast has the transducer you will need. I bought mine from them. ITEM 2: You will probably be able to use the Brake Switch circuit for your TCC lockup. I used the Cruise Control switch at the brake pedal to control my TCC lockup. For the Tach use the Dakota Digital Interface to convert from 6 cyl to 8 cyl (got mine from Suncoast) Don't know how your harness is set up, but you will have to use the 5 wire harness on the passenger side inner fender, for all your other gauges to work. I will send a pic of that tomorrow.
Great, so being as trans already talks to pcm.and gives it what It needs i can hook the converter to the vss output on pcm? Not from.vss itself as that's all part of the harness, but I have a wire that is an actuall output of vss from pcm, my guess is it went to Camaro speedo, and yes its 4000ppm output.. am I on the right track?
Well this is going waaaay slower than I anticipated... block and crank still at machine shop.. I guess this is due to the fact that there arent nearly as many machine shops around as back when I was turning wrenches for a living. ( early 90s)
I want entire drivetrain reassembled and ready to go before I do anything else.. so for now im just cleaning parts, , not spending another penny until.i get news from machine shop.. no point in buying deals and bearings etc for a bad block....
Getting there !! Great fun. And, I think the iron head LT1 is a better fit for a swap into heavy Jaguar XJ chassis. More torque at the most used speeds.
Aye, my LT1 arrived aboard a small truck. Atop an old tire as a pad. My "cherry picker" still here. Not a huge task to place it on another old tire in my drive way!! I worked it there til the adjustments were made before placing it in the home chassis
1. Ram horns.
2. Motor mounts
3. Sensors
4. After market harness
It is my understanding that the block hugger headers will not fit in a Jaguar...go with modern 2.5 inch Smoothie Corvette Ram Horns from Speedway...
They fit well and will give you great performance, no leaks or noises...I ported mine first to match the heads.
Got the block and crank back yesterday, machine shop was impressed, low mileage block. Cylinders only needed honing, had new cam bearings installed, and all new freeze plugs too... crank only needed a polish... it's all back home now, and I have a question..... are my main and rod bolts torque to yield? If so, how does that work with my plastiguage?? I cannot seem to find anything definitive... some say they are, others say not until 95 ( mines a 94) others say only head bolts.... normally when I have bought a head gasket set, if bolts are tty then it says to use new bolts on gasket box... I know the prudent thing to do is simply replace them all, but damn, con rod bolts require a special press adapter, pistons have to come off. I'm not looking to build a race motor, just something reliable and with a bit more pep...
From what I know, GM switched to torque-to-yield (TTY) bolts in 1996. For an LT engine with TTY bolts, you torque all of the bolts to 22 foot-pounds, then turn the short bolts 67 degrees and the long bolts 80 degrees. Never re-use old TTY bolts, as they permanently stretch when torqued. you could replace them with a set of expensive, new TTY bolts, but a set of standard or aftermarket bolts torqued to 65 foot-pounds will work just as well.
Last edited by sanchez; May 15, 2019 at 05:37 PM.
Reason: add info
More hold ups..... first one cant be helped, wife rolled her ankle back in december, took 3 places to decide she needed surgery... torn ligaments and a ruptured cartilage.. now no weight on foot for 30 days.. so she takes precedence over all else... but she gave me a few hours yesterday while her family was here visiting her, washing her hair etc.. so I run off to parts store to be greeted by 2nd hold up, which I find totally ridiculous!!! Why dobt part stores carry assembly lube??? 3 different chains all would have to order it!!!
So, back home in a foul mood I went! Ordered it on amazon along with the e5 socket I need to remove the optispark cap!!!
Maybe more updates next weekend, depending on how the.missus feels!!
