I know to many this is a sacrilege, but I went and bought a 1981 XJ6 with the Chevy 350 motor (I currently own a 85 XJ6 original). It was a great deal and I truly want to see what I think of it. I'll keep the one I like more (they're basically identical to each other in every other way).

My issue with the Jagrolet is that it doesn't have AC installed and I'm not sure how to go about that. Does anyone know if there are brackets that are needed and if I should simply use an old chevy compressor? Is there something aftermarket that is available?

I also need to properly hook up the tank switcher and the gas gauge, but those are less critical (and less complicated, I hope), and add cruise control (which doesn't work on my other one either). Any assistance with these minor things is also appreciated. the engine is in and working properly and running great, it's the peripheral stuff I need to fix/add.

 

How much of the ac system is left? Mine is
Chevy swap too, but it’s lt1 I am running a camaro radiator so it was obvious to me to use the camaro condenser too, as it just clips to the rad, mine uses the jag evaporator and expansion valve, every this is is gm, except the hoses I had custom made! The old jag compressor is just a standard gm a6, so if you are running a gen 1 sbc it’s hood be pretty straightforward!

 

Soda, there are a few of us heathens on this site, but if you play nice you will usually be tolerated. Just kidding, great group here.

Darren and I both are using the mid-90's LT1 (gen 2) small block and there are a few differences in the accessory drive bracket and hose routing than with an older gen1 SBC, but it's all in getting the parts that fit your year engine.

You say the engine is in and running, so what radiator/condenser/receiver-drier tank are being used, the stock Jaguar or Chevy units? Here is a general diagram showing parts and plumbing for an A/C system. I don't remember where the compressor mounts on an older gen1 SBC, I think it's up high on brackets similar to an alternator. Notice in another picture that the LT1 compressor mounts low/left viewed from front.

You could run into mis-matched fittings on the ends of the high and low pressure hoses that run between the evaporator/expansion valve (at firewall) and the connection to the compressor or condenser (in front of radiator). As Darren mentioned, I had custom hoses made locally. You should have a Green/browN wire available that connected to the original compressor. Use that and a simple ground to engage the compressor clutch using the interior Jag controls.

There are other "details" that are probably needed, but you will have to explain more about your engine year and what is still intact of the Jag A/C. Regardless, I would have the evaporator (inside the car) pressure or vacuum tested as the first item on the to-do list. If it shows a leak, the console and most of the dash will have to be removed before HVAC unit can be removed and expose the evaporator core. Don't wait until you have installed the system and then see that something is leaking from under the dash. I'll add a picture of the HVAC in my '85 XJ6 so you can see where the evaporator is located.

Dave

 

Hello,
I'm another of the "Heathens" in here with a 350 power plant (which I *Love*) installed in 1985 or so.
All the AC stuff is connected and works very well. I'll get some proper pictures up a little later as I find them, or take better ones.

For now though, this might help you:

That's the ancient compressor compatible with the car's other components. Huge by today's standards, but they didn't know how to make them small in those days I guess.

Later today I'll get more pictures of mounts, dryer, hose routing and stuff.
Welcome to the adventure from ElinorB!
(';')
EDIT; More pictures as promised:

Back of the compressor. Showing here is the Low side charging port.


Hose snaking around under stuff to the condenser.


From the condenser to the dryer.


Real HiTech, Zip tied to the brace from the dryer. Was like that when I got the car.


Back to the firewall, expansion valve and low pressure back to the compressor.


Relay was tacked onto the nose of the compressor almost as an afterthought. Works quite well though.

Here are the mounts for the compressor.
Huge, Massive things, Grossly overbuilt. They weigh about 6 pounds each!

The rear mount, as you can see, bolts to the intake manifold.



Just under the rad hose you can see the back of the front mount.


Front compressor mount.

This is a simple system, most of it I can service myself. I only need professional help if I want to evacuate it.

As R-134a works so Poorly in systems designed for R-12, I have charged this with a Propane/Butane mix that cools even better than R-12 did.

The company sells kits with all you need. Kit comes with 3 cans, they have more cans if you need. Directions are on the can, very easy to use.

I wish you success.
(';')

 

I also have an original and a converted; they each have their own personality. On the left rear of the V8 engine block casting you'll find a serial number, from that you can determine what kind of car it came out of. Then it should be easy to get the right brackets and compressor. My radiator is out of an older GM pickup with what I imagine is the condenser that came with it. My guess is that 1/3 to 1/2 of the folks on this site have V8s - all are welcome.

Jeff

 

I've added pictures to my first reply above.
(';')

 

Pretty sure that the XJ6 uses a Chevy compressor already

 

Sound like an older V-belt conversion so you'll need and A6 compressor and the brackets from 71 to 81 Chevy V8. I'd use 78 Chevrolet Camaro as a Y/M/M. Parts for for this V8 application will be highly available. Make sure you have a empty grove on your crank pulley. You MAY or may not have a crank pulley for an A/C car. If not, then order a crank pull for a 78 Camaro v8 with A/C.

As for the compressor.... 4 seasons makes an all new Aluminum A6 that is sweet. See below. I installed one on my GMC motor home this year and it performs flawlessly. Makes good cold air even with R134a, operates very quietly and the compressor clutch cuts in/out with a gentile click. It also weights far less than the original iron unit. .

As for the tanks, consider "Bridging" the tanks. This has been discussed here and involves installing a T fitting on on the supply and return lines thus eliminating the problematic switch over valves.