Hi Roger,
My kits both came with the pieces to attach the rods to the actuator.
if yours hasnt, let me know and i can send you my spares.
I have photos of two types.
one would be easier to make at home, the brass/ aluminium blocks. theyre about 5mm wide. the other one is some 2mm plate bent to the appropriate shape, you can see the cross section ive drawn in paint.

 

Mine had them as well, but I only opened the bag enough to get out the retaining screws!

THANK YOU, can finish it up today!

 

IT WORKS!

Just have to put the door panel back on and the drivers side kick panel and under dash shelf...then program the second remote fob... not a tough job at all... but I only did one door!

 

Congratulations!!
(';')

 

Just finished installing the RKE system on my Series III. I used the Bulldog system mentioned above. All's well.

The job was eased somewhat by the fact that an RKE had already been installed when I bought the car. The actuator was dead, though, so I removed it some time ago.....but I left the wires in place. Thus I was saved the hassle of running new wires thru the door-to-body conduit...which is a bit of a pain.

The job was complicated by my own poor memory. I knew that I would need a new actuator and bought a 'super compact' unti off Ebay for $10 or so. Problem is, it didn't have enough oooomph to actuator the linkages. Now what?

Then it hit me. Memory flash. I have spare "Kiekert" lock motors from the donor car sitting in a box....and they obviously have the power to do the job. It was a simple matter to fabricate a bracket to mount the Kiekert motor directly above the existing Lucas lock controller in the driver's door. The $10 Ebay purchase wasn't a total waste, however. I was able to use the linkage rod and coupler. This was fortuitous because, although I saved those bits from the previous RKE installation I forgot where I put them!

Moral of the story: when you have lots of spare parts stashed away you need to go through them every so often to remember what you have and where it is

Anyhow, the system works fine. The Bulldog system operates the added-on lock actuator which, in turn, operates the Jaguar central locking system.

Aside: I have the same Bulldog system in my beater Honda and my work truck. The other day I replaced the batteries in the fobs that go with the truck. Somehow or another the RKE system in the Honda, which was parked alongside, picked up the operating frequency associated with the truck. Now the truck fobs operate both the Honda and the truck...but the Honda fobs don't work at all! I'll have to sort that out.

Cheers
DD

 

Uh, Huh!
Husband has SO many parts stashed (Hundreds!) for SO many project vehicles (4) that he no longer knows what he has for which vehicle or where it is. When he stumbles upon something strange he isn't sure which one it's for.

He doesn't get to stash spare Nix parts though, I keep those myself. There aren't all that many for her anyway.
(';')

 

I'm in the process of adding a Bulldog KE1702 to my 87 xj6 with the German Keikert system. I got the actuator installed running parallel to the Keikert control switch in the drivers door. I used a Simpson Tie fence bracket to mount the actuator to the Keikert control switch. It was the perfect size. I only had to drill 4 holes for mounting. I assembled it all and then tried to install it in the door, but I could not get it to fit, so I had to take it apart, put the parts in the door and then re-assemble it. Fun stuff. Tonight I plan on getting the wiring through the factory door harness and into the drivers kick panel area..

I also wanted to mention that I think Bulldog sold out to a Chinese company, because the KE1702 unit I got is labelled as "EZ Starter EZ-30KE" with separate 10 and 6 pin harnesses, not the 14 pin made in the USA unit that I think most of the installs on here reference.

 

with NO door handles , i had to add remote opener kit!
forgot who made it , 25YRS AGO!

no handles

 

That shaved door sure is pretty. It looks like you needed the actuator pop the door open. I am only using it to unlock the doors as I still have door handles. I didn't get much of anything done last night. I was too tired. I hope to get the rest of it installed this weekend.

 

I just want to follow up on this thread and let others know that the bulldog ke1702 I have sucks terribly. Only one of the 2 remotes work and the one that does has a range of about 3 feet. It's mounted in the driver's side kick panel. I literally have to touch the car with the remote to get it to work. I'm going to look into replacing this with a compustar system when I find the time.

 

How on earth did you attach the actuator rod to the door look rod in the rear doors?I found the fronts easy thanks to you pictures but struggling with the rears.

 

I worked it out. You have an earlier series one than I do. Mine is a late 72. Different door lock. Luck I had an extra set of doors to compare.


I did a similar thing to your front doors.