Aligning rear brake discs
#1
Aligning rear brake discs
For my series 1 I'm combining two good rear axles. I have taken apart one now and I plan to use the calipers and brake discs from that axle. Should I use the inner shims that came off that axle to align the brake disc on the new axle? Or do the shims belong to the differential. (I'm talking about the shims behind the brake disc)
Any advice appreciated.
Any advice appreciated.
#2
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XJeej (06-22-2017)
#3
#4
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XJeej (06-22-2017)
#5
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XJeej (06-22-2017)
#6
OK, So Clarke went to extremes. Probably because he had no other choice. If you are going to pull the unit out to do some repairs you may as well do it properly. It's no fun trying do do these sort of repairs in place. As i was taught at a young age, do it once and do it well. using some heat on a seized bolt will help in it's removal. They are a high tensile bolt in a high heat application so minimal damage will be caused to the surrounding areas. Use a piece of tin to protect the seals but to put a couple of new seals in is a great idea whilst it's apart as Grant has said. This will mean pulling 1/2 shafts apart and is not a job taken lightly. when done it will give you piece of mind motoring knowing you wont end up with oil into the rear brake calipers. Have fun. Seek professional assistance if needed.
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#7
I have taken the spare differential apart, is it possible taking off the bearing in the 1/2 shaft without breaking it? If so, how?
The differential looks good, not oily and still has color. It's from 1986. But I agree it should be done properly now.
Second question, how would I measure the alignment of the brake disc, and what's the tolerance?
The differential looks good, not oily and still has color. It's from 1986. But I agree it should be done properly now.
Second question, how would I measure the alignment of the brake disc, and what's the tolerance?
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#8
Half shaft held by the studs in a soft jaw vice.
Untag the lock tab.
Undo the BIG nut, and gently tap the housing away from the shaft.
Replace the seal, reassemble with a NEW crush sleeve, and tighten SLOWLY AND CAREFULLY until the required "feel" is felt. Go too far, dismantle again, another crush sleeve and pay attention next time.
HOWEVER
A diff from 1986ish may be a Dana, as in it has NO drain plug, so the above procedure will NOT work. The above is for the Salisbury diff, which HAS a drain plug. The Dana was primarily in the XJ-S of 1985/6ish, but who knows if you have simply "picked up" a Jag diff.
Untag the lock tab.
Undo the BIG nut, and gently tap the housing away from the shaft.
Replace the seal, reassemble with a NEW crush sleeve, and tighten SLOWLY AND CAREFULLY until the required "feel" is felt. Go too far, dismantle again, another crush sleeve and pay attention next time.
HOWEVER
A diff from 1986ish may be a Dana, as in it has NO drain plug, so the above procedure will NOT work. The above is for the Salisbury diff, which HAS a drain plug. The Dana was primarily in the XJ-S of 1985/6ish, but who knows if you have simply "picked up" a Jag diff.
#9
2nd question, forgot you asked that.
Fit the rotor, fit thecaliper, bolt the caliper as needed, push the rotor home on the studs, and look at the centre of the rotor and the centre line of the caliper halves. If they line up well done.
Bet they dont.
Eyeball what way it needs to go, and remove the caliper, remove the rotor, fit or remove shims as best guess you made a few minutes ago, refit it all again, and look some more.
Wonder why I drank, thats why.
Most i have done, and I have done many, the original shims as dismantled are spot on for the new rotors, but when the seals are done, you really have to make sure.
It is NOT, repeat NOT a matter of being withing a few thou of an inch, it simply is not that critical, just as close a humanly possible is all the car asks.
It is a fixed caliper braking system, and if one piston is a tad further out than the other, so what, it will still get equal pressure on each pad. Of course, as I said above, it must be close, not 2mm out, that would be silly.
Fit the rotor, fit thecaliper, bolt the caliper as needed, push the rotor home on the studs, and look at the centre of the rotor and the centre line of the caliper halves. If they line up well done.
Bet they dont.
Eyeball what way it needs to go, and remove the caliper, remove the rotor, fit or remove shims as best guess you made a few minutes ago, refit it all again, and look some more.
Wonder why I drank, thats why.
Most i have done, and I have done many, the original shims as dismantled are spot on for the new rotors, but when the seals are done, you really have to make sure.
It is NOT, repeat NOT a matter of being withing a few thou of an inch, it simply is not that critical, just as close a humanly possible is all the car asks.
It is a fixed caliper braking system, and if one piston is a tad further out than the other, so what, it will still get equal pressure on each pad. Of course, as I said above, it must be close, not 2mm out, that would be silly.
#10
#11
Half shaft held by the studs in a soft jaw vice.
Untag the lock tab.
Undo the BIG nut, and gently tap the housing away from the shaft.
Replace the seal, reassemble with a NEW crush sleeve, and tighten SLOWLY AND CAREFULLY until the required "feel" is felt. Go too far, dismantle again, another crush sleeve and pay attention next time.
HOWEVER
A diff from 1986ish may be a Dana, as in it has NO drain plug, so the above procedure will NOT work. The above is for the Salisbury diff, which HAS a drain plug. The Dana was primarily in the XJ-S of 1985/6ish, but who knows if you have simply "picked up" a Jag diff.
Untag the lock tab.
Undo the BIG nut, and gently tap the housing away from the shaft.
Replace the seal, reassemble with a NEW crush sleeve, and tighten SLOWLY AND CAREFULLY until the required "feel" is felt. Go too far, dismantle again, another crush sleeve and pay attention next time.
HOWEVER
A diff from 1986ish may be a Dana, as in it has NO drain plug, so the above procedure will NOT work. The above is for the Salisbury diff, which HAS a drain plug. The Dana was primarily in the XJ-S of 1985/6ish, but who knows if you have simply "picked up" a Jag diff.
#12