XJ6 & XJ12 Series I, II & III 1968-1992
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Aligning rear brake discs

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Old 06-22-2017, 02:29 AM
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Default Aligning rear brake discs

For my series 1 I'm combining two good rear axles. I have taken apart one now and I plan to use the calipers and brake discs from that axle. Should I use the inner shims that came off that axle to align the brake disc on the new axle? Or do the shims belong to the differential. (I'm talking about the shims behind the brake disc)

Any advice appreciated.
 
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Old 06-22-2017, 03:42 AM
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Maybe.

The shims that go with the diff MAY work, as long as the calipers from that diff are used.

I reckon you will have to go to step 1 and start from scratch on each side. Very time consuming for sure, but it will need to be done right.
 
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Old 06-22-2017, 04:44 AM
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The differential for the first axle is broken and worn out. THe calipers on the second axle are seized. I simply cant get the axles off the good rear axle because the bolts are seized.

If I heat the bolts up, do I risk melting the seals in the differential?
 
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Old 06-22-2017, 05:51 AM
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Yes.

I would be doing those seals no matter what. I know, heaps more work etc, but they are a known leaker, and the Jag Gods are usually looking the other way when they start to weep.

Even more work once its back in and gotta come out for 2 seals.
 
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Old 06-22-2017, 06:00 AM
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Originally Posted by Grant Francis
Yes.

I would be doing those seals no matter what. I know, heaps more work etc, but they are a known leaker, and the Jag Gods are usually looking the other way when they start to weep.

Even more work once its back in and gotta come out for 2 seals.
Whole can of worms in there
 
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Old 06-22-2017, 06:26 AM
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OK, So Clarke went to extremes. Probably because he had no other choice. If you are going to pull the unit out to do some repairs you may as well do it properly. It's no fun trying do do these sort of repairs in place. As i was taught at a young age, do it once and do it well. using some heat on a seized bolt will help in it's removal. They are a high tensile bolt in a high heat application so minimal damage will be caused to the surrounding areas. Use a piece of tin to protect the seals but to put a couple of new seals in is a great idea whilst it's apart as Grant has said. This will mean pulling 1/2 shafts apart and is not a job taken lightly. when done it will give you piece of mind motoring knowing you wont end up with oil into the rear brake calipers. Have fun. Seek professional assistance if needed.
 
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Old 06-22-2017, 07:55 AM
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I have taken the spare differential apart, is it possible taking off the bearing in the 1/2 shaft without breaking it? If so, how?

The differential looks good, not oily and still has color. It's from 1986. But I agree it should be done properly now.

Second question, how would I measure the alignment of the brake disc, and what's the tolerance?
 
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Old 06-22-2017, 09:53 AM
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Half shaft held by the studs in a soft jaw vice.

Untag the lock tab.

Undo the BIG nut, and gently tap the housing away from the shaft.

Replace the seal, reassemble with a NEW crush sleeve, and tighten SLOWLY AND CAREFULLY until the required "feel" is felt. Go too far, dismantle again, another crush sleeve and pay attention next time.

HOWEVER

A diff from 1986ish may be a Dana, as in it has NO drain plug, so the above procedure will NOT work. The above is for the Salisbury diff, which HAS a drain plug. The Dana was primarily in the XJ-S of 1985/6ish, but who knows if you have simply "picked up" a Jag diff.
 
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Old 06-22-2017, 10:03 AM
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2nd question, forgot you asked that.

Fit the rotor, fit thecaliper, bolt the caliper as needed, push the rotor home on the studs, and look at the centre of the rotor and the centre line of the caliper halves. If they line up well done.

Bet they dont.

Eyeball what way it needs to go, and remove the caliper, remove the rotor, fit or remove shims as best guess you made a few minutes ago, refit it all again, and look some more.

Wonder why I drank, thats why.

Most i have done, and I have done many, the original shims as dismantled are spot on for the new rotors, but when the seals are done, you really have to make sure.

It is NOT, repeat NOT a matter of being withing a few thou of an inch, it simply is not that critical, just as close a humanly possible is all the car asks.

It is a fixed caliper braking system, and if one piston is a tad further out than the other, so what, it will still get equal pressure on each pad. Of course, as I said above, it must be close, not 2mm out, that would be silly.
 
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Old 08-12-2017, 03:41 PM
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The parts are here, excited. One more question. What oil would you put in your differential?

Kroon Classic Gear EP 90 was recommended to me.
 
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Old 08-13-2017, 06:32 AM
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Originally Posted by Grant Francis
Half shaft held by the studs in a soft jaw vice.

Untag the lock tab.

Undo the BIG nut, and gently tap the housing away from the shaft.

Replace the seal, reassemble with a NEW crush sleeve, and tighten SLOWLY AND CAREFULLY until the required "feel" is felt. Go too far, dismantle again, another crush sleeve and pay attention next time.

HOWEVER

A diff from 1986ish may be a Dana, as in it has NO drain plug, so the above procedure will NOT work. The above is for the Salisbury diff, which HAS a drain plug. The Dana was primarily in the XJ-S of 1985/6ish, but who knows if you have simply "picked up" a Jag diff.
Ive done both 1/2 axles now. Should I have a little play in the bearings or none? I dont ''feel'' anything.
 
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Old 08-15-2017, 06:54 AM
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I'm wiggling the plate that screws onto the diff btw. It has the tiniest amount of play right now. Should I tighten it a little more or leave it?
 

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