Don't you just love it when the only thing gone wrong with a 46 y/o car in the last two years is blown sealed beam headlight. ( about 22,000km done per year)
I finally got around to fitting the H4 headlights I picked up free four years ago, total cost of $11 for two H4 bulbs becuase I stole the bulbs out of them to fix the daughters car and the Jeep rather than drive 5 minutes to buy some.

Only thing I don't like is the flat look of the lenses rather than the more curved sealed beam lenses.

Can't post with questions asking for help so have to post about the good things.

 

Clarke, your post reminded me of how poor the low beam is my series 1. When the second headlights power up and the high beam filament activates in the 7", then high beam is marvellous, but I can recall struggling to see much on a dark night with just low beam. Are the original sealed beams still around cheaply? I think I paid $7 for one many years ago.

 

John, I didn't actually bother pricing one, but I did ask the question a while ago. Th answer was "we don't keep any in stock, but expect to pay $30-$70" and that was Supercheap Auto.
We have driven the New England Highway to Armidale many times at night or in the wee hours of the morning and I always said to her indoors "I will change the lights when we get home".
Never happened. Now we don't do that regular trip I have changed them. Haven't driven at night since so can't comment on the difference.

 

Aye.

A couple of years ago, I swap[ped out all fopur of the sealed beams in my Jaguar.

Much better lighting with the same watts.

The new units use halogen as the inert gas. The older ones used another, not as neret and the refelctors suffer.

so, mine are good to go much longer than me. .

OTH, the plastic things in my Jeep are due for another scrub..Sad, upo tech on the bulbs. down tech on the lens!!!

Carl ..

 

I discovered H4s some years ago and I'll never go back to incandescent sealed beams.
The First thing I did to Nix when she came to live with us was CHANGE THE HEADLIGHTS!!
(';')

 

When I did my conversion to Halogen and 7" outers, I ran all new updated wiring, with independent relays for the headlights and one dedicated to the Daytime running lights I also hooked up. The 16G (it looked like 18G) wiring to the headlights as original was upgraded to 14G to fire the relays with 12G supplying power directly from the Battery firewall posts to the Headlamps fro the relays.
The headlight switch now only supplies a signal to activate the relays, so no high power is running through the switch now. Works like a charm. The DRL relay gets its (very low power draw) from the white ignition coil wire.