Coolant level question
#1
Coolant level question
I noticed the other day that my owners manual recommends filling the coolant at the engine until it is most of the way full at the filler on the top of the block. Is this correct? I have topped up the coolant in the metal overflow tank to the correct level then topped up at the engine a couple of times but after a few days sitting the engine always appears dry when I check it. Is this normal? There is no water in the oil.
#2
#3
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Location: Delaneys Creek,Qld. Australia
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I have to add about 500 mls of coolant every week or two. Car doesn't get hot and no obvious leaks(all new hoses, clamps and gaskets), no water in the oil or trans fluid.
Don't worry about the small things,as long as you keep an eye on the gauge when driving and regularly check the coolant level.
I just check it weekly as I do with the fluids in all my vehicles.
Don't worry about the small things,as long as you keep an eye on the gauge when driving and regularly check the coolant level.
I just check it weekly as I do with the fluids in all my vehicles.
#4
bring the engine to normal operating temperature, driving it for at least 45 minutes before doing the following check:
once engine is hot and temperature stabilized, turn the heater ON to maximum heat with engine running.
with a thick cloth rag, slowly turn to open the expansion/recovery coolant cap to release any built-up pressure, (slowly, keeping your face away).
once you are able to confirm there is no more pressure, remove the cap,
fill the tank with the proper coolant and water mix until it is up to the neck of the tank.
allow the system to swallow any added coolant, if level goes down, add more until coolant remains at the neck. Secure cap in place. Coolant level should now remain as you left it.
once engine is hot and temperature stabilized, turn the heater ON to maximum heat with engine running.
with a thick cloth rag, slowly turn to open the expansion/recovery coolant cap to release any built-up pressure, (slowly, keeping your face away).
once you are able to confirm there is no more pressure, remove the cap,
fill the tank with the proper coolant and water mix until it is up to the neck of the tank.
allow the system to swallow any added coolant, if level goes down, add more until coolant remains at the neck. Secure cap in place. Coolant level should now remain as you left it.
#5
The coolant should be just below the (non-pressure) cap at the top front of the block. There is a small tube to the expansion tank at the side of the engine compartment, where the pressure cap is located. Coolant should be about half-way up on this if it's a steel tank, otherwise to the marked level on the plastic one. If there is no coolant at the top when the engine is cold there is something wrong. Check the pressure cap on the expansion tank, first off. If that's OK the coolant is going somewhere. On my 1980 XJ6, it was a blown head gasket due to a cracked block.
#6
regardless of what the "fill-to" point is, you need to account for the coolant that flows to the heater core, that's why you need to first warm up the car to the point where the thermostat remains open and coolant is flowing through the heating system by setting the heater to maximum, then and only then can the system be really filled.
if after that exercise, the coolant level keeps going down, then you have either a leak somewhere which only reveals itself when you are driving at speed, or you have an issue with the cylinder head gasket, etc.
if after that exercise, the coolant level keeps going down, then you have either a leak somewhere which only reveals itself when you are driving at speed, or you have an issue with the cylinder head gasket, etc.
#7
Thanks guys. I just did a gearbox service and there is no signs of coolant in there. hoses and pressure caps are looking pretty tired so i will assume they are the cause for now. I can see stains from a tiny leak at one of the choke hoses on the front stromburg and will definitely be doing hoses before i drive the car
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