Hi Gharv64,

Most probably the wrong coil as in the wrong ohms resistance.

Check if you have a ballasted or unballasted ignition system while you are at it.

If there is a separate housing bolted next to the coil with wire running from it to the coil then you have a ballast resistor installed.

There are ballasted and unballasted coils to suit the different ignition set ups.

These cars like low resistance coils (around 0.8 - 1 ohms) ideally.

Factory says DAC3001 / Ducellier coils

I have DLB198 fitted to an unballasted ignition system and have not had a problem since fitting it.

Doug may chime in as he recommends DLB170 which was for the V12 engine but seems to work as well.

In Australia DLB170 much more expensive than DLB198, so I went with DLB198 for that reason.

Good luck,

Nigel

 

Hi Gharv64,

I just re read your post and saw that you mention that the engine ran for a while before this happened.

To the above list I would also add the possibility that the existing coil is flaky and on its way out anyway even if it is the right resistance.

Also the positioning of the coil right on top of the water rail was a real feat of engineering - NOT.

Under bonnet (hood) insulation may be compounding the overheating of the coil.

I know that on hot days I pop the bonnet latch so that the rear edge is raised to let out hot air when I park the car, knowing that I will be returning withing 1/2 hour of shutting the engine down. It gives the coil a chance to cool down a little.

More points to ponder.

Cheers,

Nigel

 

thank you both for your help

 

Could also be the module inside the AB14 amplifier on front of engine. GM part inside and subject to heat causing your problem.

 

 

Basic electrickery. High heat = high resistance. High resistance = weak spark. weak spark = poor running, if at all.


Some warmth in the coil Ok. Stinking hot, no, sir !!


Carl