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Just in time for winter I developed a problem with the climate control system. The defroster wouldn't work. When selecting 'defrost' there was no response or, more commonly, the entire system just....stopped. I was dreading a problem with the hard-to-replace micro-switches behind the mode control knob.
Long story short....
I made whatever checks and inspections I could with minimal disassembly. Some wiggle-testing of wires at the blower relay revealed the problem: a crusty connector on the black/blue wire. This wire grounds the relay(s) and goes to the "Lo" switch of the mode control. A new connector restored correct operation of the system. Years ago I had problems with a different wire at the blower relay pack.
Here's a pic of the culprit connector. It actually broke apart on removal.
The moral of the story: don't tear the car apart looking for a complex solution before checking for the very-easy-to-fix possibilities!
Absolutely. I did all the recommend tests and established that my starter had died. Had it most of the way out before I noticed the small wire from the relay had just dropped off. It was on top of the starter where I couldn't see it; if I had just reached up there I could have felt that it was off. Replaced the little spade terminal like you did, Doug and I was back in business.
The moral of the story: don't tear the car apart looking for a complex solution before checking for the very-easy-to-fix possibilities!
Cheers
DD
2 weeks ago I heard a new and distinct knocking or lifter sound on my Benz. I assumed it needed a valve adjustment at minimum, if not a possible rocker arm issue or something more serious. After positioning the car in the garage to start taking the valve cover off, I noticed one spark plug had somehow come loose right in the area of the knock. Snugged it up and issue solved! Crisis averted.
In the fall of 2018 my AC quit working. As the weather had cooled I didn't really need it anyway so saved fixing it for a Winter project; it took me all winter!
One after another I changed out components: Amplifier, Servo, Mode switch, Ranco thermostat, and I gave it a charge. None of these resolved the problem, the compressor clutch still refused to engage.
Finally, at my wit's end I replaced the relay on the compressor (which clicked so I thought it was OK) and SCHAZAAM!! All fixed.
But it wasn't a waste of time because I Need something to do during winter, and my AC system should be good for another 40 years.
(';')
I made whatever checks and inspections I could with minimal disassembly. Some wiggle-testing of wires at the blower relay revealed the problem: a crusty connector on the black/blue wire. This wire grounds the relay(s) and goes to the "Lo" switch of the mode control. A new connector restored correct operation of the system. Years ago I had problems with a different wire at the blower relay pack.
DD
I'm going to use this thread to share a bit of knowledge I gained today.
As some of you might remember, I complained about my HVAC not working this summer. I pictured an irritating project ahead during the winter, I was correct. Contrary to Doug's good fortune, I did have to dismantle a good deal of stuff. I found that the #6 fuse in the main panel had proper voltage in and out, but I didn't have any at the On/Off micro switch in the Mode selector. This circuit also feeds the wipers and they worked. I was not taking that area apart any further to find the open!
Now comes my bit of shared info. I decided to run another wire to the Mode selector, but I didn't want to trash the wiring by cutting and splicing at the fuse panel. After inspecting the back side of the fuse block, with the help of a mirror, flashlight, and a wooden wiring probe (called a spudger), I could see that only one half of the pair of contact pieces that hold each end of the fuse had the circuit wire attached. The other contact piece was loose and available to connect to another wire. Both contact pieces are inserted and held in place just as any other wire terminal is held in a connector body. In the picture you can see a slot on either side of the contact pieces, this is where you would insert an appropriately sized connector release tool and push the holding tang out of the way. The contact piece then pushes out of the block to the back side. Connect another wire to it and push it back in from the back and you have a factory looking wire addition.
Dave
Last edited by LT1 jaguar; Nov 20, 2022 at 03:27 AM.
1/ Seemed so, was not. Decades ago, the left outboard lamp in my 83 went dark. Simple? in other past vehicles, just swap in a new seale d beam. did that. still no light!!!! Messed arpnd some mre. discovered the finger roll at the fuse box fixed it!!!
2. not a car. My Epson workfore 2630 qit functning. Did all kinds of stuff. diferent USB cable. different uSb port. No jo. even gave it up and bught a Canon. Mre issues resolved with a replacement on warrnty.
tried the ePson again just removed and replaced the same uSB cable. Wow, it works\\\3 Phone issues. lost the connectivity in the house phone wiresd mush messing around. included two new phoes. One wud nt wor. sig. Oh, the power surge strip has different portals. some constant engaged. some only when the device is opened. well, neither phone would open the strip.
so, got my old phone provided power diret from an ptet in the wall. Zoooom. all is well.