Driver side window on my 1989 V12 won't go down. I hear faint clicking but no motion.

 

Start with the switch in the console. Not hard to get to and not hard to open the case and clean the contacts.


Use two pans. One for the small bits in the cabin. And the other to work over. teeny parts to easily lose.


A pozi driver, a flat driver and a means to clean the contacts.


I've posted a time or two in more detail, search the archives.


If that does not work come back and I or others better at electrickery will help.
Carl

 

Carl is right, start with the console switch as it is easiest to get to. Others with detailed knowledge will provide info on relays, in-line fuses, etc. But I would add that another cheap and easy fix is to make a positive ground to the window motor. The door card comes off easily. On my early SIII you pull the little chrome bezel away fron the front of the door pull and you will see a big screw head. That and there is another screw under the arm rest and the card will come right out. After you get the window to work, spray silicone lubricant carefully in in the window track being careful to not get it on the paint or interior. I did those two easy repairs and now the old sluggish windows zip up and down.

 

How do you do this? Just add a ground strap between the door frame and motor housing, or run that new ground through the door frame and out to the body?

 

Good question. The absolute best is a wire back inside the car to a really good ground but you might start with 1. Grounding the window motor to the door itself being sure to sand off the paint where you ground it. And 2. Finding the factory ground wire that comes through the rubber tube from the inside and cleaning that connection in the door. Use a multimeter to determine which is the ground wire. The wiring schematic is in the quick links of the forum. Finally, clean the battery ground wire and then the ground wire from the engine to the body. Keep in mind, every electrical circuit has a hot wire and a ground wire, either one (or both) can be corroded, dirty, etc. The hot wire is easy to diagnose with a test light but people often forget about the ground wire. Can't tell you how many things I have fixed over the years just by cleaning the ground connection. Get a multimeter, you don't need an expensive one. HF once gave them away as their freebie. The resistance from a good known ground to the circuit ground should read zero olhms.