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Anyone looking for inexpensive front shocks? Gabriel 89710
I placed an order for a new LH fuel tank and saw these for $9.68 each. Way too cheap to pass up, so I bought a pair.
Ordered on Monday, had the tank on Tuesday and the shocks just showed up today.
Gabriel 64710 is also available for only $14.87 each.
Tank was raw, no finish. Didn't think that seemed like a great idea, so I wiped it down with xylol to remove the oily finish, then sprayed it with primer last night. Will install tonight, probably.
RH tank needs to be removed. Ordered the POR15 liner kit for it, as it is not as rusty and does not leak. Will soak it with muriatic acid for a couple days to get the heavy sludge out of it first, then proceed with the kit. Kit won't be delivered until mid next week.
I tried to save the tanks, but the LH was just too far gone. First I flushed the tanks with the garden hose with a trigger nozzle for added pressure. Rust flakes and residue poured out for over half an hour on each tank. RH not as bad. LH tank was then filled with 12 gallons of vinegar and sat for 3-4 weeks. Dumped, screened and transferred vinegar into RH tank. Flushed LH tank with water again for 15 minutes, lots of rust poured out of it, allowed it to dry overnight, then filled with gas. Two days later it was leaking from...all over. Toast, I'm not going to fight with it anymore. Drained the gas, removed tank and here I am, back to the beginning of the story.
Illustrations:
(above) You know you're in trouble when your filler neck looks like this. This is the LH side.
(above) Through the sending unit opening at the rear LH tank. Bottom of tank is icky. Most fuel leaked out of that screw; the one above the drain. WHY, just why would you put a screw there? It seems to have no purpose.
(above) Upper part of LH tank. Not sure if the distinct rust line is where the vinegar came up to, or if that's how full the tank was before the car sat for the last 4 years. Maybe both?
Removal of tanks: I removed the LH tank with the muffler in place. That was not an easy task. Lower wing & bumper caps were already off.
Bolt inside trunk is easy. Remove the two wires to the sending unit at the rear sending unit and disconnect the loom holder tabs on the bottom edge of tank. Disconnect all hoses. The hose disconnect is what actually tripped me up for a while when removing the filler caps. Once they were removed the caps pulled right out. Imagine that.
The bolt to the rear had to be reached through the exhaust pipe opening via a long extension with a knuckle on the end. Had to wrap the knuckle with electrical tape to prevent it from sagging before reaching the bolt. Worked the bolt on/off for the first thread before it wanted to break free and come out; this after generously dousing with PB Blaster.
Note: don't waste money on WD40, use Justice Brothers JB80 (it's twice as good!) or use my favorite, PB Blaster-it will melt a styrofoam cup in just a few minutes!
The lower bolt at the front wasn't quite as bad as the lower rear, but I had to remove, or more accurately loosen the muffler shield and remove the rear tire to get at it. Slow going with about 45° turn of the ratchet, but it came out easy. Other connecting bolt is a long vertical bolt with a nylon lock nut accessed easily from the bottom.
(above) Tank removed. Arrows point at all hose fittings & bolt locations.
After pondering this removal, it was obvious that I was not going to be able to reinstall those two lower bolts into the new tank. Not without getting the muffler & shield out of the way. Sawzall to the rescue! Cut the pipe at the rear of the wheel well opening and pulled out the muffler/S-pipe. This opened up a new "WTH!!"
(above) View from where rear muffler sits out the exhaust hole opening. Ledge below hole was full of rocks and dirt. Don't believe that was from me (below)
Above is the pile of dirt/rock that was scooped out. It's about an inch or more high. That's a lot of debris. Took its toll on the lower fascia, as it is rusting from the inside out.
My point in showing this is simply that you don't know what kind of shenanigans the PO had subjected your car to. I did live on a gravel road at one time, but never went over 15 mph and couldn't have possibly deposited that much crap with the few miles I did drive it on that road. At least, I don't think so...Anyway, check that ledge out and clean it off!!
Otherwise, looking up into the rear wing cavity was a pleasant experience. All undercoating was in place, no signs of peeling, flaking, or other rust.
let us know how the Gabriels work out. Are .those the fronts?
as to WD40 vs. PB Blaster, I use both depending on the situation. PB Blaster has a horrible odor that gives me a headache.
WD40 is for less drastic situations.
let us know how the Gabriels work out. Are .those the fronts?
as to WD40 vs. PB Blaster, I use both depending on the situation. PB Blaster has a horrible odor that gives me a headache.
WD40 is for less drastic situations.
Yes, both numbers listed are for the fronts. I had ordered Sachs 311347 for the rears a few weeks ago. Haven't installed them yet. Have to finish up the V8 conversion before I'll be able to test out the shocks. As LnrB so eloquently stated, "everything takes four times as long and costs four times as much" when working on a Jaguar.
PB stinks, yes, but boy does it work wonders. We call it "skunk ****".
Yes. Been there. Couldn't save either tank on our XJ12C. Oh well......
I'm sure this is on your list but the fuel lines (looks like on an S3 it's only the feed line that runs through that cavity under the rear muffler?) will also be on your list to replace ? They can be done with the muffler in place but we did them with the mufflers out and it was a lot easier.
Fuel lines all replaced, except that short bit from the tank to the steel line through the trunk wall. Now's a great time to replace that with some leftover 1/2".
That's the thing about a conversion, or other upgrade. "While your in there...you might as well check/replace...." Satisfying to have so many things updated while the car is immobile anyway, but it sure takes its toll on the wallet and the time frame!
On another subject, mileage. I have to believe the odometer on this car is a liar. Perhaps the speedometer was changed at one time? It's an '82 vin serial is 343673. Bought it in December 2004, not running from Oklahoma from second owner. Mileage as advertised and on odometer was 32,232. There's no possible way this car only has 33,568 miles (current odometer reading). Signs I've noticed: The B-pillar vinyl wrap is worn through along the edge where the driver sits. The floor mats are well worn, with the rubber mesh under the gas pedal missing a few lines in the grid. Have found evidence of much tampering, or someone performing work almost everywhere. Even the front seat bolt heads were worn preventing me from getting the "star" pozi-head in it.
Also, I thought that in '82 they came with a mechanical speedometer? Do they have the same connections on the rear? I thought the mechanical would have the little gear thingy. Mine has all electrical hookups-that 7 or 8 pin socket. Was troubled by this since I bought a used newer electro-speedo to work with the LT1 PCM prior to ever actually removing my speedo. Number is ES1100.
Last edited by moronthethrottle; 07-26-2018 at 12:59 PM.
POR15 kit showed up early. Decided I better remove the RH tank and give it a soaking in Muriatic Acid before commencing with the kit over the weekend. Very pleased with the results.
^ Prior to soaking in M. Acid.
^ After 8 hours of soaking in M. Acid. Still has some surface rust and a little gunk around the plug, but good enough for the kit etching "stuff" to take care of. Other note: I took this after pic with the tank upside down, with the acid soaking the top. More difficult than it appears as I didn't want to get acid on my phone!
Obviously did much better than what two weeks of vinegar soaking did. Much cheaper, too. One gallon Muriatic acid, picked up at the Ace hardware store cost me $9. Fill the tank about 3/4 full and added the acid. Top part is soaking today as I'm at "work". It's not going to soak as well, as the "seal" I made on the filler neck was already leaking within an hour after flipping it. It appears as though there is still some varnish gunk around the drain. I may take a 1/4" rod and scratch at it to break it loose before using the POR15 etch.
I have to assume that prior to using the sealer I'll need to tape over the inlet pipe above the drain plug. Was a little disappointed that the new tank does not have a large plug; only a Ø1/2" square head plug.
I'll post up after pics-hopefully on Monday.
Any ideas on my speedometer questions above? Anyone? Anyone? Bueller? Bueller?
On another subject, mileage. I have to believe the odometer on this car is a liar. Perhaps the speedometer was changed at one time? It's an '82 vin serial is 343673. Bought it in December 2004, not running from Oklahoma from second owner. Mileage as advertised and on odometer was 32,232. There's no possible way this car only has 33,568 miles (current odometer reading). Signs I've noticed: The B-pillar vinyl wrap is worn through along the edge where the driver sits. The floor mats are well worn, with the rubber mesh under the gas pedal missing a few lines in the grid. Have found evidence of much tampering, or someone performing work almost everywhere. Even the front seat bolt heads were worn preventing me from getting the "star" pozi-head in it.
The speedo can be swapped out in about 10 minutes so it isn't unreasonable to think it might've been changed for one with lower miles showing.....perhaps for nefarious reasons.
Also, I thought that in '82 they came with a mechanical speedometer? Do they have the same connections on the rear? I thought the mechanical would have the little gear thingy. Mine has all electrical hookups-that 7 or 8 pin socket. Was troubled by this since I bought a used newer electro-speedo to work with the LT1 PCM prior to ever actually removing my speedo. Number is ES1100.
For USA market cars 1982 model year commenced with VIN 330273 and the switch to electric speedometers came at VIN 331346.
The electric type won't have a receptacle for a speedometer cable.
As a curiosity thing, do you have Smiths or Veglia instruments? All the electric speedo cars I've seen had Veglia instruments but according to the parts catalog it could be Smiths. No VIN break is shown for the change.
Update on the cheap front shocks: They don't actually say "Gabriel" anywhere on them, or the box. Was a little apprehensive of the label when I removed them from the outer shipping box.
"RFBRANDONE 7/17/08" I assume that to mean refurbished July 17, 2008. Ten years on the shelf? OK.
Road Ryder? Is that some pseudonym for Gabriel? Whatever. Rock Auto is NOT THE PLACE to attempt returns. It can be done, but the shipping here, then returning will equal more than the $19.34 invested in the actual shocks.
I took them out and primed them a bit. Seemed decent. Certainly not stiff, which is what I'd expect from these. Rebound was sluggish, but what I would consider normal. When I remove the KYB's that are in the car, I'll compare them.
I did get the rear shocks replaced. A bit of a PITA removing the cup retainer clips. At least, the first one was. It got a little easier with practice.
^ Is it a Gabriel, or Road Ryder? Inquiring minds want to know. Even if I don't care...
Thanks for the gauge intel, Doug.
Yachtman - Yes, I used my Samsung S6 for the pics. Works well with the flasher right next to the lens, unlike normal cameras. Was a bit surprised myself at how well the pics turned out.
Process for POR15 kit #49239:
Step 1 Mix "Cleaner Degreaser" in equal parts with very warm water. Pour into tank, roll tank around for 20 minutes saturating all surfaces. Flush out and rinse thoroughly. Tank does not need to dry prior to step 2.
Step 2 Pour in "Metal Prep" straight. Don't forget to replace any plugs that were removed. Roll the tank for 20 minutes, similar to step one. Let the tank sit in different positions for 30 minutes at a time. Directions say not to exceed 2 hours with the Metal Prep in the tank. I let it soak a little long, as these are not normal shaped tanks and wanted to get all areas. Dump, flush, rinse, repeat. At the conclusion of both step 1 & 2 I filled the tank all the way with water, then dumped and proceeded with rinsing.
Step 3 Check for leaks. Good! If leaks are found, patch per the instructions. Run a hair dryer in one of the openings until everything is completely dry. I had the tank sitting with the curved (wing) side down. This allowed water to puddle in the curve, and the heat to rise to the outer edge seams. The little dryer I used propped nicely into the normal filler opening-hands free! Allowed it to run for over an hour. Rocked the tank a bit to disperse the puddle in the center. When all was dry the metal had a kind of powdery coating to it. Also found some little rusty dust chunks - vacuumed those out. Now seal everything back up and tape off the tube at the lower drain opening. Add sealer and roll it around slowly until all areas are coated. 20-30 minutes. Dump out excess, or at least attempt to. I thought I did, but as you'll see below, quite a bit remained. Allow to cure for a minimum of 96 hours before adding fuel. ^After Step 1. Notice how quickly the tank flash rusted. Picture from post above was 18 hours prior to this pic.
^ Prep bottle, hammer and chisel to open/close the sending unit opening.
That's the best/only way to see inside. Saw horses make the rocking job easier.
^ Post "Metal Prep". Looks pretty good. Light surface rust, which is acceptable.
^ Shiny wet sealer appears to have covered everywhere. The filler neck "bubble" at the top was the hardest to get the sealer to coat.
Note the tape on the end of the intake tube. Don't want sealer to plug it up!
^ Left the tank sit as shown overnight. Excess sealer settled to what will be the outside of the tank, next to the wing. Darn moth! Had to scratch at his carcass and vacuum him out.
Other thoughts: One quart of sealer went in the tank. When I drained it back into the sealer can it refilled it halfway, or a pint came out. Used some of it to seal up some spots on the outside that were missing paint, or even rusting. Removed the rust with a Loctite rust remover naval jelly first. Sealer is ultra hard stuff! Whacked some on a scrap piece with a BFH and had no effect.
The whole POR15 kit process took me 8 hours. For the $75 I spent on the kit, I'm satisfied with the results. Won't really know how well it worked until I install and start using the tank.
07-26-2018, 11:04 AM
FYI Gabriel Shocks & my fuel tank experience
Roll the tank for 20 minutes, similar to step one. Let the tank sit in different positions for 30 minutes at a time. Directions say not to exceed 2 hours with the Metal Prep in the tank. I let it soak a little long, as these are not normal shaped tanks and wanted to get all areas. Dump, flush, rinse, repeat. At the conclusion of both step 1 & 2 I filled the tank all the way with water, then dumped and proceeded with rinsing.
