Hello guys and girls I thought I would share with you on how I manged to remove a fuel tank for a XJ6 S2 Jag with a submersible fuel pump, the steps I'm doing are from the Haynes owners workshop manual.

**DISCONNECT BATTERY FIRST**
First step - Remove the rear bumper (six bolts, two on each side and two on the rear)
Second step - Remove the fuel tank\fuel tank cover (6 bolts on top, 7 screws under\side body and 3 screws in the wheel well)
Step three - Drain the fuel into a container.
Step four - Remove the exhaust tail pipe, unscrew the exhaust bracket and remove the exhaust mount (located in the boot)
Step five - Remove tail exhaust cover (six screws)
Step six - Disconnect the positive and negative terminals for the float located behind the rear tail light (gap is big enough to put hand behind)
Step seven - Remove fuel pump cover located behind the wheel well, unscrew and remove the four setscrews and detach the fuel hose and positive and negative terminals.
Step eight - Remove boot inside side panel by lifting the corner of the panel and sliding it out.
Step nine - Disconnect the fuel pump feed pipe from the fuel tank.
Step ten - If not done already lift the side of the car up with a jack or ramps to allow fuel tank to be removed more easily.
Step eleven - Remove fuel tank securing bolts in the following positions - (Image of where the bolts are https://i.imgur.com/RXqfSWl.jpg )
Wheel arch.
Boot side panel.
Lower edge of fuel tank near exhaust tail pipe.
Self-locking nut on support rod at the front lower edge of tank.
Step Twelve - Remove the fuel tank slowly.


Now I know some of the steps I have done may be slightly different to the one in manual, but this is just how I removed my fuel tank and thought I would share what I have done for anyone that is going to remove there fuel tank.

 

No mention of the rubber hose to filler cap or the rest of the tank hoses?

 

That's a good guide and consistent with my experience for Series 2 Carburated cars. In my experience it's also very necessary to remove the filler neck via it's 4 screws.

Series 2/3 fuel injected cars have a 3 fuel line attachments to un-do. A supply line near the muffer, a return line at the forward bottom and a vent inside boot near the top of the tank.


Fuel tank removal, re-installation and alignment is quite job. Time consuming and if you're going to go through all of this its wise to get a new tank and not chance fixing/repairing/resealing the one you have.

This is another one of those areas where I wonder how Jag made any money assembling these cars.

 

Removing the filler cap is the "fun" part, lots of lube sprayed around and twisting to get them out. Caps are different from S1 cars and have to be upgraded to the later cars type if putting S3 tanks with return lines in early cars.

 

this is a big topic. I have just finished the remove part and will post some pictures. The big deal is the removal of the filler neck without damage to paint or filler. I made a tool that was suggested in an earlier post that you should search for. As with most projects; tank one was difficult and I was flying blind. Tank two was just work.


I have lots of photos if you need them. I'll start with these.


have fun geneo

 

what happened to the pictures

 

Minimal corrosion around that area. You're a lucky man ! While you're in there try to get some anti-rust fluid around the wheel arch. On the 4th photo, you can see the little plate blocking off access sealed with some putty. I removed the putty and worked a load of Waxoyl into it which made it all supple again, and then got busy with the Waxoyle gun. Then I replaced the putty, and never got any breakthrough of rust after that. I took out both tanks on my Series 3 as I needed to weld there, (boot floor and rear valance, plus patch-up the rear wheel arch panel where the 1/4 panels bolt on. Finished off with new 1/4 panels, genuine Jaguar.

 

wtf do i have to use to get the filler neck screws closest to the hinge out???????

i tried needle nose vice grips and tried with screwdriver and liquid wrench but got damn i cant get em

 

I had to take the pin out of the hinge and completely remove the cap.
(';')

 

you just tap that out right?

 

NVM just did it that way myself haha

 

Now another question lol.
i got those screws out, but how do you disconnect it from the tank itself? Lots of jiggling??

 

Not lots of jiggling, LOTS of jiggling!
And more jiggling after that until it falls on the floor.
(';')

 

Twist and shout.
There's a rubber seal that doesn't want to break loose between tank and filler, lots of lubricant and twist back and forth and pull. More shouting when tank drops on foot

 

Okaaaay, I'll get jiggy wit it

Nobody tell will Smith please

 

Man im glad u posted about this on here im going thru the same problem between all of u i think in the morning after i take the starter outta my jeep an have it tested im gonna put my jag back together and start from scratch and go at it the way i folks were mentioning i have been trying for the last week to get them tanks out. Now mind u i have no zip ziltch nada experience in machanic work i have the tools now but this is my first rebuild and firsy classic car and best of all this is my first jaguar im excitrd as all hell to get her purring

 

If the filler cap is really stuck and twisting won't budge it a slide hammer will help. Don't ask me how I know...

 

This might sound really strange or weird, On my Series 3, I left both Fuel necks and caps in place, Pulled and tugged after pulling every thing else off and the tanks came out without to much of a struggle. New "O" rings and a couple of fingers full of wheel bearing grease and slid them right back in.

Thank you.

Larry Louton

 

So like most people that are new to this awesome forum does anyone have a good suggestion on where the best yet cheapest place i can go to get 2 new tanks and new fuel line im hoping to get a good deal just thought maybe u cats could direct me in the right pass i did try a couple places but jigbits is down until the 4th i guess and this place sll want like 350-400 a tank i dont expect them to b cheap or any part i purchase for that matter but there has to b a place that will have them cheaper or plan B is have my buddy fabricate the tanks for me maybe i could get my hands on a diagram on how they nade it and bent it the way it is anyways hope to hear back from soneone with good news

 

I got mine from JC Whitney. Quality parts. Why do you need new tanks?


Thank you.

Larry Louton