Hi all,

Its been a minute and a half since I've posted, maybe thats because I fixed most of my S3 XJs problems, or maybe because I had kids and stopped tinkering with it hahah, probably the latter huh.

Anyhow, she's always started up mint, maybe sounding a little tired it if had been awhile.
So, here's my story, I'm on a quest to replace the brake booster, (RHD) so parts are a pain, so I thought I'd best start her up to make sure its even worth getting knee deep in pulling this thing apart.

Here arises the first problem, I remove the battery from my ute, and try to jump her from that, which normally works a treat.
It didn't really fully turn over, maybe the engine was a bit tight from sitting there, the battery gauge showed good voltage and the jumper leads got a little hot (probably a bad thing), so I know there was good current to turn her over.

Then the stupidity begins, let's jump her off the ute while its running I think, that will give it a bit more juice and she'll turn over fully. RIGHT?
Not right, I cranked it once, the result was the same weak crank, and then I lost all electrical, battery light and all.
Checked the fuses I know of (both under dash and the one on the fender), and none blown, not that any of those would have been relevant I don't think.

So it's a double barrelled problem, whats probably broken in the electrical? and it sounds like I've got something wrong with the starter.
But first things first, I want to get the power back! Then I'll look at the starter issue.

Thanks for any advice in advance!

 

Begin with the easy stuff: connections clean and tight?

-Battery posts and cables
-Ground /earth to the body @ neg battery cable
-Ground/earth strap under the engine, about where the engine and transmission join
-The two "+" junction posts on the firewall

Remove, clean, tighten these connections and see what happens

Cheers
DD

 

Thanks so much Doug, I gave both the positive posts a good clean and I've got power back now, I'm glad it was simple.
The sudden nature of it made me think it was something else!

Next on the ticket is the slow crank with the starter motor, very slow cranks, I get one crank right away and then about 5 seconds between very weak ones.
I did a voltage drop test (hopefully somewhat correctly).

I took two reading, probably both wrong, but here they are:
1. Voltage reading from the negative battery terminal to the starter motor positive cable
* 12.5v with key in position 2
* 8v~ when cranking
2. Voltage reading from the positive terminal to the starter motor positive cable
* 0v with key in position 2
* 2 - 3v when cranking

I guess the next step is to try and clean the connections on the starter motor and positive cable, so I'll attempt that.
Any advice on how to get to this cable would be amazing! Looks like the best way is from below.

I'm wondering if there is any reasons, other than a worn and old starter or low voltage that would give me that slow crank.
Could be:
Battery being too weak, but I believe I have the correct battery, its sort of always cranked like this actually, maybe not this slow but she's never done a nice quick crank haha.
Is there such a thing as these engines just getting horribly hard to turn over with age?

Cheers
Harry!

 

As Doug mentioned, have you run a good extra engine earth from the engine block to the frame rail with bright metal under the fixing on the frame?

 

Oh, I see now, I have misinterpreted Dougs advice as for only the no power issue, so I stopped once I had power, whereas its actually advice for the starter too!

I haven't run an extra one no, but I will.
I assume this is as well as the one that Doug says runs from around where the tranny and engine meet to the frame rail.

Thanks for clearing that up!

 

Years ago when I had an XJ6 Series 3, it got harder and harder to start. I replaced the battery to no avail, then a kind specialist a few miles away suggested it was the starter motor. A good used one was fitted and the problem was cured.

 

As Doug mentioned, the battery ground cable to the body is right there, can’t miss it, what could be easier. But the body to engine ground cable is underneath the car in the dirtiest and hard to get to location possible. So I always go to the auto parts store and get a battery cable with a lug (bolt hole) on both ends. Put one end on the same bolt as the battery to body cable on the fender. And then find a bolt somewhere on the engine that is not a critical torqued bolt but something like a bracket bolt for one of the accessories. Just leave the original ground strap under the car alone in all its rusted greasy glory. With this easy and inexpensive trick you will be absolutely sure that you have a great ground straight to the engine.

Also, your old battery might have a short inside it. I suggest temporarily replacing the old dead battery with the known good battery (no jumper cables) until you get it running.

Jeff

 

Batteries are just like your own heart. Due to go out any second now. Take the battery out and drop it on floor from a foot up. Retest it for operation. Reinstall battery and turn on headlamps with volt meter across battery and see how low it goes while it cranks, Should not go below 9 volts.

Larry Louton

 

Well, that's a new one for me, but I do understand the concept.
I'll remember that little trick.
(';')

 

Somewhat imilar to the Epley or similar treatmewnt for vertigo in humans.

Aye, a groud from the post on the wing wall to my enmgoine fixed a weird eelectrical issue, No crank.

wish I could still go down and under and see what went wrong with that strap at the condluence of engine and transmission?/

Good frounds fix so mucch.

Carl