Left indicators not working
My left indicator is not working. The lights dont come on with the emergency lights, and dont come on with the indicator stalk. I dont hear any clicking indicating left.
Previous thread (solved): https://www.jaguarforums.com/forum/x...issues-266540/
At this point it just feels cruel
Previous thread (solved): https://www.jaguarforums.com/forum/x...issues-266540/
At this point it just feels cruel
Cats can seem Horribly cruel.
Have you ever seen one play with a mouse it's just caught?
At this point YOU are the mouse.
But as it's only a Machine, and Machines have no agenda, you will eventually get it all sorted.
(';')
Have you ever seen one play with a mouse it's just caught?
At this point YOU are the mouse.
But as it's only a Machine, and Machines have no agenda, you will eventually get it all sorted.
(';')
Hey, fellow series 2 owner here and I've solved a number of lighting issues over the past few weeks (brights not working, blinkers intermittently working), so happy to share what has worked for me. I attached the wiring diagram which may prove useful.
My initial reaction is that if you don't hear any clicking from the relay, there is an issue contained within the area between and possibly including the relay or the turn signal switch. That said, it may be worth while to start with what is easiest to test and work your way up to the relay and/or switch. As you go, it is a great idea to clean all contacts, as they naturally build up grime and resistance over 50 years of use. I have had more than a few issues where a little electrical cleaner or rubbing alcohol and either some sanding or filing of the contact did the trick (make sure to clean after sanding or filing to remove any debris). If you have dielectric grease to apply to contacts after you clean them it'll help prevent future corrosion and contact failure, but that isn't absolutely necessary to get the contact working again.
I recommend starting with a voltmeter to begin debugging, starting with the fuses, bulbs and working your way up to the relay and switch, since you can verify the situation fairly easily.
First step is to check the fuses and fuse holder to make sure they are good and that there is good, clean contact between the fuses and the holder. I assume there is one fuse that handles both blinkers (which would rule that out as the issue) but I'm honestly not sure.
Then, you can swap the bulbs with the other side to confirm it isn't just bad bulbs in both the front and back.
If the bulbs are good, test both voltage and ground independently at the bulb sockets with the lights and blinker turned on.
--> Check continuity of the ground in the socket with a known good ground location, there should be no ohms present, although they say 5.0 ohms or less are a "good" ground. If you have high resistance or no ground, I believe you can trace the black wires to where they ground to the chassis, remove them and clean the mating surface and ground lead.
--> Check the voltage at the socket with a known good ground point.
If your ground is good but you don't have any voltage, take a look at the relay by disconnecting the battery and removing it. It sits behind the footwell panel on the driver's side, above the fuse panel.
--> Pull up to remove it, and clean all contacts on the bottom of the relay. Mine were pretty gummed up and cleaning & filing helped my blinkers which were intermittently working.
-->Test the wires from the relay socket and bulb socket for continuity or any resistance along the wire to the blinkers. Check the attached wiring diagram, it may be the green/red or green/white wire, I'm not sure which is right or left.
Take a note of the part number on the relay in case you need to order a new one, and put it back in and reconnect the battery to see if there is an improvement.
If you're not seeing an improvement, you can check the switch, which requires taking off the steering wheel, or just replace the relay before checking the switch since the switch is sort of a PITA to pull out and fiddle with. I've taken apart a few relays and cleaned & rebuilt them with mixed success, but I don't know if you'd be comfortable doing that.
If it isn't the relay, you'll have to take off the steering wheel and some of the upper steering column pieces to get to the blinker switch, there are details in manuals on the pieces and steps needed to do this. I haven't removed my blinker switch so I can't be a ton of help, but if you get to that point, you may be able to clean some of the contacts and make sure there are good connections at the switch before getting into the switch itself.
Good luck, let us know how you get along.
Seth
My initial reaction is that if you don't hear any clicking from the relay, there is an issue contained within the area between and possibly including the relay or the turn signal switch. That said, it may be worth while to start with what is easiest to test and work your way up to the relay and/or switch. As you go, it is a great idea to clean all contacts, as they naturally build up grime and resistance over 50 years of use. I have had more than a few issues where a little electrical cleaner or rubbing alcohol and either some sanding or filing of the contact did the trick (make sure to clean after sanding or filing to remove any debris). If you have dielectric grease to apply to contacts after you clean them it'll help prevent future corrosion and contact failure, but that isn't absolutely necessary to get the contact working again.
I recommend starting with a voltmeter to begin debugging, starting with the fuses, bulbs and working your way up to the relay and switch, since you can verify the situation fairly easily.
First step is to check the fuses and fuse holder to make sure they are good and that there is good, clean contact between the fuses and the holder. I assume there is one fuse that handles both blinkers (which would rule that out as the issue) but I'm honestly not sure.
Then, you can swap the bulbs with the other side to confirm it isn't just bad bulbs in both the front and back.
If the bulbs are good, test both voltage and ground independently at the bulb sockets with the lights and blinker turned on.
--> Check continuity of the ground in the socket with a known good ground location, there should be no ohms present, although they say 5.0 ohms or less are a "good" ground. If you have high resistance or no ground, I believe you can trace the black wires to where they ground to the chassis, remove them and clean the mating surface and ground lead.
--> Check the voltage at the socket with a known good ground point.
If your ground is good but you don't have any voltage, take a look at the relay by disconnecting the battery and removing it. It sits behind the footwell panel on the driver's side, above the fuse panel.
--> Pull up to remove it, and clean all contacts on the bottom of the relay. Mine were pretty gummed up and cleaning & filing helped my blinkers which were intermittently working.
-->Test the wires from the relay socket and bulb socket for continuity or any resistance along the wire to the blinkers. Check the attached wiring diagram, it may be the green/red or green/white wire, I'm not sure which is right or left.
Take a note of the part number on the relay in case you need to order a new one, and put it back in and reconnect the battery to see if there is an improvement.
If you're not seeing an improvement, you can check the switch, which requires taking off the steering wheel, or just replace the relay before checking the switch since the switch is sort of a PITA to pull out and fiddle with. I've taken apart a few relays and cleaned & rebuilt them with mixed success, but I don't know if you'd be comfortable doing that.
If it isn't the relay, you'll have to take off the steering wheel and some of the upper steering column pieces to get to the blinker switch, there are details in manuals on the pieces and steps needed to do this. I haven't removed my blinker switch so I can't be a ton of help, but if you get to that point, you may be able to clean some of the contacts and make sure there are good connections at the switch before getting into the switch itself.
Good luck, let us know how you get along.
Seth
My initial reaction is that if you don't hear any clicking from the relay, there is an issue contained within the area between and possibly including the relay or the turn signal switch. That said, it may be worth while to start with what is easiest to test and work your way up to the relay and/or switch. As you go, it is a great idea to clean all contacts, as they naturally build up grime and resistance over 50 years of use. I have had more than a few issues where a little electrical cleaner or rubbing alcohol and either some sanding or filing of the contact did the trick (make sure to clean after sanding or filing to remove any debris). If you have dielectric grease to apply to contacts after you clean them it'll help prevent future corrosion and contact failure, but that isn't absolutely necessary to get the contact working again.
I hear ya, I’m finding the accumulation of previous owners’ years of neglecting minor glitching components has added up to necessitate a good amount of troubleshooting, cleaning and rebuilding + replacing fairly simple items (I too just finished replacing the alternator with a 150amp unit with new + extra 4 AWG power and ground lines - everything works better now!).
This forum has been super helpful in seeing how others have solved the same problems, and I’m hoping at some point soon the car will be a solid foundation to daily drive and the items I fix will be good for a good long while. Then I’ll move on to putting in an LS swap, breaking everything that can’t handle the HP and begin all over again! 😅
This forum has been super helpful in seeing how others have solved the same problems, and I’m hoping at some point soon the car will be a solid foundation to daily drive and the items I fix will be good for a good long while. Then I’ll move on to putting in an LS swap, breaking everything that can’t handle the HP and begin all over again! 😅
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Ionutzss23
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