Left pull on braking
I read through some posts on reasons for "pull" to one side when braking and will do some more experiments as I drive. But another clue... my 86 SIII pulls left when I apply brakes and when I got home today after about a 1/2 hour drive, I felt all four Kents. The front left was noticeably warm to the touch, while other three were stone cold.
Soooo... I am surmising that perhaps I have a sticky caliper that is protruding and rubbing the disk continuously. As such, when I apply brakes, this caliper(s) applies pressure on left front wheel PRIOR to the pass side.. causing the pull left.
Maybe a caliper issue? But I have also worked on cars where the flex hoses are so clogged/constricted that fluid flows more easily toward the caliper, but when you release brake, it has a hard time returning and keeps the caliper extended and it does not return to its initial position.
Just some ideas. Time to pull some wheels and learn how to pull off calipers, replace flex tubes and bleed on an old Jag
Randy
Soooo... I am surmising that perhaps I have a sticky caliper that is protruding and rubbing the disk continuously. As such, when I apply brakes, this caliper(s) applies pressure on left front wheel PRIOR to the pass side.. causing the pull left.
Maybe a caliper issue? But I have also worked on cars where the flex hoses are so clogged/constricted that fluid flows more easily toward the caliper, but when you release brake, it has a hard time returning and keeps the caliper extended and it does not return to its initial position.
Just some ideas. Time to pull some wheels and learn how to pull off calipers, replace flex tubes and bleed on an old Jag

Randy
Probably a caliper issue, yes. I have had the same symptom on many other cars, including my older Jags. It has always been a caliper problem. Hose problems as you describe do occur, but are less common, in my experience. Worn suspension components can cause a brake pull as well....but wouldn't account for one hub being obviously hotter than the others.
There are various ways of approaching this problem. IMO, if time and money permits, you have an excellent opportunity for a "do it all, do it once, do it right" plan of action: full system overhaul. Calipers, hoses, discs, master cylinder....the whole shebang. Anything known to have already recently replaced can be chopped from the list, of course. Parts costs are not that bad and the actual work is rather routine....except for the rear calipers and discs, of course
Cheers
DD
There are various ways of approaching this problem. IMO, if time and money permits, you have an excellent opportunity for a "do it all, do it once, do it right" plan of action: full system overhaul. Calipers, hoses, discs, master cylinder....the whole shebang. Anything known to have already recently replaced can be chopped from the list, of course. Parts costs are not that bad and the actual work is rather routine....except for the rear calipers and discs, of course

Cheers
DD
Thanks! Agreed... I reviewed PO service records and no mention of recent brake work. So I watched a few videos and did some parts pricing and new rotors, calipers and flex pipes seem within my skills
Randy
Randy
An odd interpretation, probably incorrect!!!
Only the left front is exerting any braking effort. The other three are dormant. hence the one doing the work is hot, the ones just riding along are stone cold. If the three were functioning, some heat should be there!!
If the left front is merely dragging, that should be felt by jacking up that corner and turning it by hand...
Partial power outage last night!! 1/2 of the house OK, the other dark! Did workarounds til dawn.
Then,as I suspected, the master breaker tripped, only one side... Learned a few decades ago, by a friendly Electric company guy. PGe is taking a lot of heat, but the service folks have always been great to me..
Carl/
Carl
Only the left front is exerting any braking effort. The other three are dormant. hence the one doing the work is hot, the ones just riding along are stone cold. If the three were functioning, some heat should be there!!
If the left front is merely dragging, that should be felt by jacking up that corner and turning it by hand...
Partial power outage last night!! 1/2 of the house OK, the other dark! Did workarounds til dawn.
Then,as I suspected, the master breaker tripped, only one side... Learned a few decades ago, by a friendly Electric company guy. PGe is taking a lot of heat, but the service folks have always been great to me..
Carl/
Carl
...
There are various ways of approaching this problem. IMO, if time and money permits, you have an excellent opportunity for a "do it all, do it once, do it right" plan of action: full system overhaul. Calipers, hoses, discs, master cylinder....the whole shebang. Anything known to have already recently replaced can be chopped from the list, of course. Parts costs are not that bad and the actual work is rather routine....except for the rear calipers and discs, of course
Cheers
DD
There are various ways of approaching this problem. IMO, if time and money permits, you have an excellent opportunity for a "do it all, do it once, do it right" plan of action: full system overhaul. Calipers, hoses, discs, master cylinder....the whole shebang. Anything known to have already recently replaced can be chopped from the list, of course. Parts costs are not that bad and the actual work is rather routine....except for the rear calipers and discs, of course

Cheers
DD
https://www.jaguarforums.com/forum/x...5/#post1289337
(';')
Even though it's easier to drop the IRS, rear calipers Can be changed with the IRS still in the car; we did it. Check here:
https://www.jaguarforums.com/forum/x...5/#post1289337
(';')
https://www.jaguarforums.com/forum/x...5/#post1289337
(';')
Yep, quite doable. If you can get yourself comfortably situated under the car, with all your tools, it isn't all that bad to replace the calipers. The problem is replacing the discs...which requires that the control arms be allowed to drop very low to allow the discs to come off. This requires the rear of the car to be elevated quite high on jack stands, much higher than I'm comfortable with, personally. I've seem some pics of what some owners are doing and it makes me shudder, but I guess I'm a bit of a coward!
Of course, if you have a hoist, things get much easier.
OTOH, one downside to removing the rear cage is that, in most cases, the exhaust pipes need to be cut and then re-welded. For most of us that means a trip to the exhaust shop. Not a huge thing but, still, an extra step.....and perhaps not always convenient.
That thread you linked was very good. Great pics and info.
Cheers
DD
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minigretzky
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Sep 29, 2009 07:14 AM
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