Losing Kent Hubcaps
#1
06-03-2017, 01:05 PM
Losing Kent Hubcaps
I've lost two hubcaps off my Kents in the last couple months or so. One of them was a replacement for the one I'd lost. Plus I've lost a couple at various other times over the years.
I do pay attention to them and try to make sure they're properly seated, but it doesn't seem to matter.
I'm thinking about tacking them down with JB Weld. Is there any good reason not to? They don't need to be taken off in order to remove the wheel from the car. I don't see where they grant access to anything. I'm guessing the only reason they exist at all was that it was easier to cast the wheel without them.
Opinions or advice? They're $25 each. Some people would say they're "only" $25 each, but it's $25 I'd rather spend on other things.
I do pay attention to them and try to make sure they're properly seated, but it doesn't seem to matter.
I'm thinking about tacking them down with JB Weld. Is there any good reason not to? They don't need to be taken off in order to remove the wheel from the car. I don't see where they grant access to anything. I'm guessing the only reason they exist at all was that it was easier to cast the wheel without them.
Opinions or advice? They're $25 each. Some people would say they're "only" $25 each, but it's $25 I'd rather spend on other things.
#2
06-03-2017, 01:37 PM
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Are you losing the cap and the retainer, or just the cap?
If the cap is gone but the retainer remains on the wheel then the glue is failing. Buy a couple replacements caps and use JB Weld to bond the retainer to the cap. That'll hold 'em forever !
If you're losing both the cap and the retainer then the retainer isn't engage/griping the wheel tightly enough. Try bending the fingers of the retainer for a tighter fit
Cheers
DD
If the cap is gone but the retainer remains on the wheel then the glue is failing. Buy a couple replacements caps and use JB Weld to bond the retainer to the cap. That'll hold 'em forever !
If you're losing both the cap and the retainer then the retainer isn't engage/griping the wheel tightly enough. Try bending the fingers of the retainer for a tighter fit
Cheers
DD
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James O (06-06-2017)
#3
06-04-2017, 04:11 PM
#4
06-05-2017, 10:07 AM
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James O (06-06-2017)
#7
06-06-2017, 10:51 AM
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#8
06-06-2017, 03:44 PM
You certainly want something removable, as the machine to balance your tires wont work if there is no hole in middle wheel, jb weld.is a bad idea, but the silicon is workable . Im sure there are other ways to balance tires without reaching through rim like the bubble method, but most shops dont have it, they spim ya up, hammer on a weight amd send you on your way...
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James O (06-07-2017)
#9
06-07-2017, 09:36 AM
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I liked the metal caps that came with the Kent wheels. I sought a way to use them on the lattice wheels in lieu of the little plastic things. I failed that one.
The JB suggestion by Doug, is not for the metal cap to the alloy wheel, but for the plastic badge that is glued to the metal cap.
I see the solution, as Doug suggests, is to spread the tabs on the metal cap, so as to get a better bite in the hole in the alloy wheel.
In the late 40's I was in college and also worked at a full service station. My boss was enhancing the business for income streams other than at the pump.
First, a bubble balance device. Lay on the wheel in a horizontal position. Check the bubble for the high spot. Add a weight to center the bubble. Mark the spot with a chalk. Remove the wheel, split the value of the weight and clamp on, one on the inside and one on the outside. Static balance achieved. Better than zip. but, still imperfect.
Then came the Hunter, more sophisticated. I'll not describe it, but it was on the car and achieved dynamic balance. Far better....
Later systems are off the car and spin the wheels much faster...
Carl
The JB suggestion by Doug, is not for the metal cap to the alloy wheel, but for the plastic badge that is glued to the metal cap.
I see the solution, as Doug suggests, is to spread the tabs on the metal cap, so as to get a better bite in the hole in the alloy wheel.
In the late 40's I was in college and also worked at a full service station. My boss was enhancing the business for income streams other than at the pump.
First, a bubble balance device. Lay on the wheel in a horizontal position. Check the bubble for the high spot. Add a weight to center the bubble. Mark the spot with a chalk. Remove the wheel, split the value of the weight and clamp on, one on the inside and one on the outside. Static balance achieved. Better than zip. but, still imperfect.
Then came the Hunter, more sophisticated. I'll not describe it, but it was on the car and achieved dynamic balance. Far better....
Later systems are off the car and spin the wheels much faster...
Carl
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James O (06-07-2017)
#10
06-07-2017, 10:03 AM
I read the OP statement about using jb weld, thought he meant basically gluing caps on, but of course, adding some to the tabs wouldn't hurt anything. I had issues way back with mine coming off, replaced them and simply bent tabs a bit to give a nice snug fit, havent had a problem since, well thats a lie, couple weeks back i was washing her and noticed the growler missing from the cap!!! Glue failure or someone went at it with a screwdriver to pop it off??? Who knows? But cap is still there. 
#12
06-08-2017, 05:05 PM
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