I guess the term viable is subjective. To me, if the engine is not readily available from cars that have likely been in running condition (as in wrecked) when they hit the yard, as opposed to cars that 'ran when parked' 30 years ago, it's not viable. I would agree that many lumpers are happy with their carb fed or TBI SBC. Many of these cars were lumped before the LS engine became a viable option. It's viable now because there are thousands of them in yards. The carb fed SBC was viable 25=30 years ago years ago when carb fed or TBI SBC engines were everywhere.

I'm not criticizing anybody's choice (your car your choice). I'm just saying that given that the LS is a readily available modern engine with a factory and aftermarket ECU's that can drive just about any accessory and transmission, why would anyone choose anything else? My Jensen uses a Chrysler 440, would I swap in a Hemi? Heck no! I'd want to make my life as easy as possible.

 

I've been kicking this idea around for my 75 XJ12C. When I bought it, it was converted to run strictly on propane with all the fuel injection wiring, ECU and tanks removed. I had to buy 2 cars to put it back together (and two new tanks), but it never run right afterwards and I've hardly driven it. The D-Jetronic is a bit of a curse. I have it in other cars (mostly Mercedes and also a Volvo). I would like to do a manual swap on this car. It will never be a clean original. Right now it has a 700R4 in it, but it's not right.

Swapping a 6.0 into this car would be my preference to swapping in an LS. I bought it when I had a lumped XJ5.3C (the red one below) because i wanted a V12.

I was under the impression that when Jaguar switched to the 4L80E, they used a standard Chevy bell housing which motivated me because I thought that it would make the transmission swap simpler and when combined to sorting out the 50 year old fuel injection, it may make the whole job simpler then trying to sort this car out as it is. I don't that it's as straight forward.as a simple swap however. I would still have to swap in the fuel injection, source another fuel pump that's able to deliver (the 6.0 cars have two) and I know that the radiator is completely different.

I try to keep my eye out for a 93-96 XJ12 at the auction in case I decide to get serious.

 

Putting a manual 5-6 speed is relatively easy on post 1977 3/4 cars. The alignment dowels on Jaguar V12’s past that point align with Chevy bell housings. Go back a couple of posts and you need to make an adaptor like that. The brake pedal assembly has most of what’s needed to add a clutch pedal. Then it’s a straight forward matter from there on. Ask if you need details.

 

I understand about your preference for the carbed 350. Even though you probably had to rebuild it. Likely you are comfortable with that combination. That’s a decent reason.
I got comfortable with the V12. They really aren’t hard. In some ways easier than a Chevy. ( I’ve built plenty of those too )

 

You have me confused with someone else. I'm a die hard V12 fan. I'm on my second one; it's been my daily driver for a number of years

Actually I can't recall the last time I owned anything with a SBC. Not that I haven't been tempted !

I do have a lumped TR6, tho. It has a SBF.

Yer preachin' to the choir.

Cheers
DD

 

In Australia the Ford Barra 6 cylinder motor would be a good candidate. Am immensely smooth, reliable and torquey motor in standard form that has (here) a mountain of performance options. Street version have clocked high 7sec 180 mph passes in drag racing , with pro mod style cars doing high 6's at 210mph +

Our version of the ubiquitous engine with options. 1JZ and 2JZs would be in a similar league.

 

No, it's unique to the 6.0 V12. The 5.3 bolt pattern is different too, and both are very different to a Chevy pattern. I think the Chevy is about 6 bolts, the V12 is around 14 ( I haven't counted exactly). The 1995-97 XJR also uses the 6.0 4L80e with an adapter plate to the 6 cylinder block.

 

Really only available in the US and Canada, it's not at all a common engine in Europe for example. I saw one on Ebay UK and the price was over £5500 for a standard engine.

 

The increasingly desire in the market is a classic looking car with high performance using modern engines with big power and reliability. What you said is exactly how my Jag was build initially around 5 years ago, I removed the SBC carbureted V8, upgraded it to a LS1 truck engine with stock truck intake, mild cam, headers, ECU for a low price. That engine put down about 400 HP and propelled the old 3.8s to 0-60 in 4.0 seconds consistently and it provided over 200,000 miles. So for big reliable horsepower with no cold start issues, altitude issues that a carbureted V8 typically has and the better power, and mileage it was a great powerplant. Remember now there are fewer shops that can even work on old carbureted cars anymore as the modern engines you just plug the computer in it to diagnose anything quickly.

For a low price, high power, reliability, good mileage, and increasing resale value the GM LS V8 is the way to go. I have seen similar cars to my 60's sedan with a SBC V8 sell for low prices, around $20K and they looked clean but you find a similar car with a cleanly installed LS and it will go for 2-4 times that cost depending on the rest of the build.

My car is a daily driver with over 200,000 + miles in less than 5 years and I drive the car reasonably hard pushing it to 100-125 mph often and racing thru canyons daily rain or shine. It would likely be able to get maybe another 50,000 if I squeeze it and push it till but I am deciding to splurge a little and do a fully built rebuild with forged internals, porting, etc. that will put down 500 HP all motor and still be a sleeper.

The GM LS v8's to me are the best value in power, reliability and resale. Another option but more expensive due to the demand in those engines would be a Toyota JZ or a Nissan RB twin cam inline 6 as both of those will put down 450-600 HP with very little done and if you fully built them they will put down 700-850 HP in reliable street form.

 

No question. The UK is the ultimate nanny state and cars tend to rust or fail MOT before the engines go out. If I lived there, a replacement Jaguar engine would be the most sensible choice for me.

 

Doug, did a gorgeous engine swap in his Jaguar MKII with the Jaguar XKR V8. That is not as easy, not as much power as an LS V8, but it checks off the right boxes for others whom want to keep everything Jaguar or are in places like the UK where the LS is not readily available. He basically built his own Beacham Jaguar MKII and I think he did a fantastic job! take a look at the MKII forum and do a search for XKR and you can see his impressive job! A Beacham Jaguar MKII is way out there in $$ something like $250K +

 

I remember those when I lived in the UK (I came to the US in 2000), at the time, their Mark 2's used AJ6 engines, IIRC. Beautiful cars. I bought a MK2 3.8 auto about 12 years ago. It came with the factory sunshine floors and was a bit too much of a project for me so I sold it to a buyer from overseas.

 

who does the work on the conversion? Jaguar dealers won’t touch it. Nor will a Chevy dealer.
I’ll give you a hint. When a typical mechanic opens the hood he doesn’t see anything he’s familiar with. Most mechanics are taught , monkey see, monkey do. ( myself included) but a Jaguar works exactly the same as a Chevy, Ford, or Honda.
Plus it uses American sized wrenches ( right up to the point Ford took over when it switched to metric)
The scary part ( the EFI ) can be dealt with ( and improved on) The factory system doesn’t have OBD2 which makes figuring out a EFI problem as simple as plugging in a reader.
There is a gentleman selling a plug and play system to take the mystery out. Or if you have a smart mechanic ( or are patient yourself) you can go to aftermarket systems like Megasquirt, Maxx etc. these are all self learning so once you’ve properly connected all the wires it will start up and run.
At first it’s not going to be as smooth as the factory. And maybe you’ll need to type in some changes. But while the factory had to adjust the car for all the possibilities around the globe. You may not need to adapt it to arctic temperatures or Desert heat. Starting at 12-15,000 feet etc.

 

we have the same thing in our Atlas 4.2*. ( Chevy Trail blazer , GMC Envoy) Stone stock it makes 290 hp and with nothing more than an Amazon or EBay $150 Turbo charger your up to 500+ hp. There is a guy on UTube who with a stone stock, unopened bottom end with 175,000 miles on it made 824 horsepower. Turns low 9 second quarter mile times at 142 mph. ( in a 1964 Studebaker ) it made that at 24 psi. Boost. But blew up on 30 psi.
But the Jaguar 4.0 is the same thing. But better. It is forged crank and rods while the 4.2 Atlas is Sintered Iron crank and rods) All aluminum. 4 valves per cylinder there is even a supercharged version available from the factory. And it too will get you 500+ horsepower with an Amazon or EBay turbo charger for $150.
( details upon request)
Those engines the Atlas and the Jaguar are in Junkyards for as little as $400 Hours

 

Never mind.............
(';')

 

I don't think it would be wise to take a jaguar to a dealer mechanic. Dealer mechanics will know how to work on XE's, XF's and F Pace. I expect the majority would probably not have been alive when a S3 XJ was new.

 

Which very likely isn't even an available option. Very few, if any, Jag dealers will even take in an older model Jag...with "older" being anything more than 10-15 years old.

Right.

They don't know about the older models.... and have no reason to know about them. And keeping old hobby cars/special interest cars alive simply isn't in their business model. And I don't blame them a bit for that! Back in my dealership days we avoided hobby cars as much as possible.

Cheers
DD

 

Doug is right Jaguar dealers won't service older Jaguars. The reality is that even when you widen the view of available mechanics very few know how to work on older cars period. The days of the old school mind set of a carburetor is easier and anyone can work on them is not the case anymore. This is the reason why any engine swap with an old school carburetor is not worth as much as and is not as desirable anymore.

On the contrary an engine swap with a modern engine that has proven reliability, performance is very popular and will be worth a lot more. That is the reason why the GM LS V8 series of engines is one of the most popular engine swaps in so many applications. Those engines will easily last over 300,000 miles, have great power, very reliable, and there are so many performance parts and availability of parts in general. You do not need to go with a fancy more expensive ECU like Mega-squirt or Haltech because there are so many car tuners that can tune the stock ECU. Any swap you will need to work out the issues but I can attest that the GM LS1 V8' with the stock ECU tuned is very reliable, provides great power, efficiency, and is very easy to find people to service the car. I put over 225,000 miles daily driving my first LS1 in less than 5 years. Also I have had numerous offers for my car for big dollars and the offers continue to rise and that matches what you see in quality restomod cars with modern drivetrains. Restomods with modern engines are commanding more money than stock as the new generations of car lovers have less and less quantity of people whom want numbers matching stock cars. More people want the reliability, power and features of today's technology and will pay more when that is combined with cars they dreamed of owning as they can be more practical daily drivers.

 

Two points:

1, I had a choice when my DOHC bit the dust. Rebuild it. Rplace it. Convert to GM power.

I chose the latter. After some shoppig, i had two choices. A TPi with an auto box swapped on from a Corvette. or an LT1 from a 94 Cadillac fleetwood brougham. i chose the latter. All iron, n alloy heads! it came complete with a whole lot of extra stuff, including a brand new par of ram horn manifolds. Cost 2500 bucks.

i bought a Jhns car kit about 800. and a Dr k wire harness, about 700. Teh latter a mistake. Flawd

It took about four years to nstal. i was working a lot of hours. Ha! needed to. to pa for my toys!!!
Teh most complex aauto project I ever did1 but, so satisfying.
2. my car has been worked on by a professional three times. Independent shop techs. A. Fix AC. partly ok.
B. Get the csr SMOg compliant. tht tech found three error. Each an elctric issue.

C. Swap out the rear brake caipers. OK, except for the park pads.

O'wise i and a sme aid from son have dealt with it's issues.

At the writing, the LT1 is just fine.

would I do it again. H... yes!!!


Teh Cadillac tune is just right for the heavy XJ!!