I'll get a drawing from the Service Manual but now I owe I owe and off to work I go.

 

"Fuel pump" and "Main" relays the same.


Cheers
DD

 

I meant to say: "Ignition Load Relay" (not "lock"), located behind the speedometer, accessible by removing the knee pad under steering wheel. Mounted above the fuse box and to the right.

see ilustration below:

 

Doug, ever since this started I have a gut feeling the problem is electrical, not fuel-related. Something "died" causing the engine to shut down. I am still wondering if it is in the distributor itself. If you read all my "suggestions", they have all been electrical.

 

Without reading every old post I recall that tudstuen has a "fat blue" spark .....can't ask for better than that so the distributor sounds OK to me.

The fuel pump works, the injectors circuits work according to testing with a noid light although the injectors themselves are still in question....but all six failing would seem pretty odd.

ECU, relays, and injector allast have all been swpped.

It "wants to start" when starting fluid is sprayed in, suggesting lack of fuel.....as the spary is a substitute for gasoline

The ignition load relay has nothing to do with fuel injection or spark. It just powers up a couple accessory circuits to protect the igntion switch from excessive load.

I'm stumped.

Cheers
DD

 

ok dumb question. how do you tell a good blue spark, fat meaning a size .. I don't know if its fat according to what you guys would know. when ive done the plug test on metal the spark is about the size of a tooth pick in diameter or close to the size of the part of pug the spark comes from. is that fat? or good if not what then?

 

I happen to have a toothpick in front of me :-)

I'd say that "toothpick" size diameter is good enough.

Cheers
DD

 

If a xj6 had an engine fire could or would it warp the aluminum head and cause a blown head gasket?

 

My guess is that an engine fire that burned long enough and hot enough to damage the head would've burnt the car to the ground. I'm not an authority on the subject, though.

FWIW, leaky head gaskets are not unusual on these cars even without an engine fire.

Cheers
DD

 

I must admit I have not read through all 13 pages of this thread but what I have read begs me to ask the following question. I read that he has tried to start the car by spraying in ether or something similar into the inlet manifold and that the engine attempted to start.

Would I have been wrong to have expected that the engine should have fired up and ran for at least a second of two to burn this all off? The fact it did not, could that not suggest a problem within the air flow valve. Maybe the reed is damaged or the flap is not opening properly. Could there be a blockage in the intake system.

Sounds to me because you seemed to have already covered just about everything else, it has to be something really silly.

(I did not see anywhere where it was stated what the exact fule pressure was at the fuel rail. Only saw it stated that it was good which really does not mean anything. Has to be between 35-39 PSI. which right now does not really mean much if the engine will not fire properly on a fluid being introduced through the inlet manifold.)



Sounds to me because you have just about covered everything else it has to be something really silly.

 

OOPS I apologise about all the spelling and grammar errors in my post. Spell check had a brain storm at the wrong time obviously not that my spelling is that good anyway. Hope it is still understandably.

We will see what it does with this.

 

Thanks any help is good. I gave up doing this myself. Took in to a shop. he said its the Air Flow Meter and bad compression. Said he played with the meter and got it to run but ran rough because of the low com. Im deciding what to do next. 50/50 on selling or trading or try to fix.

 

Has the shop given you the compression figures for each cylinder ? Frankly if you don't have the skill, tools, money or garage facilities, it might be time to sell and withdraw, no shame in that at all. However, you might, before doing this, try taking off the cylinder head to investigate.

 

I would think that having wet and dry compression test readings would assist in evaluating the engine condition and lead to a meaningful decision as to what to do with the car.

 

As for those of you who helped many thanks. I am selling all the parts I put on the xj6. The main ones are the new injector wire harness and 6 new injectors and some other things. Let me know if any of you are interested.

 

Will sell whole or part out. Many new electrical parts.ie.. fuel wiring harness, injectors.