Noise from under car
#1
Noise from under car
Recently I started hearing a noise underneath the car that sounds like something is loose or needs greased but not sure. The noise comes from the driver side towards the front under the hood. Anybody know what parts under there that could cause a noise when hitting bumps and other sorts of things like that? Also I noticed after posting a threat about my temp gauge, the gauge never hits 90 celsicus but always stays at 80. The heat blows warm when set to highest setting any ideas? After getting a oil change, the oil pressure gauge also stays just a little bit above 40 which I know it should stay at 40.
#2
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Recently I started hearing a noise underneath the car that sounds like something is loose or needs greased but not sure. The noise comes from the driver side towards the front under the hood. Anybody know what parts under there that could cause a noise when hitting bumps and other sorts of things like that?
A rattle and clang type of noise?
Often the upper bushings on the front shocks have gotten rotten, allowing the shocks the rattle around.
Check the diagonal braces in the engine bay. They have to be really tight or they'll make noise.
The stabilizer bar end links can make a helluva rattling racket if the bushings are rotten and falling apart.
Also I noticed after posting a threat about my temp gauge, the gauge never hits 90 celsicus but always stays at 80. The heat blows warm when set to highest setting any ideas?
80ºC should be hot enough to get full heating effect from your heater. Are you saying that the heater doesn't seem to get hot enough?
After getting a oil change, the oil pressure gauge also stays just a little bit above 40 which I know it should stay at 40.
The oil pressure reading will go up when the engine rpm increases and then drop as the engine rpm decreases.
Also, the overall reading will be higher when the oil is cold and lower when the oil is hot.
Cheers
DD
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it works fine in summer ambient temperature but not now in winter ambient temperature?
I would say you have the "summer" thermostat which opens at 180 degrees when it should be opening at 195 degrees.
assuming all else is good, the coolant, the water pump, the Heater valve, then the only way to troubleshoot is to get the 195 t/s and drive.
to visually check the Heater Valve, located at the center of the firewall behind the engine, have someone move the TEMP knob from 65 to 85 and viceversa, with the MODE knob in AUTO, engine running, transmission in Park.
when someone moves the TEMP knob, and after a short delay, you should see the Heater valve's linkage moving one way or the other, meaning the valve is opening and closing as it should.
I would say you have the "summer" thermostat which opens at 180 degrees when it should be opening at 195 degrees.
assuming all else is good, the coolant, the water pump, the Heater valve, then the only way to troubleshoot is to get the 195 t/s and drive.
to visually check the Heater Valve, located at the center of the firewall behind the engine, have someone move the TEMP knob from 65 to 85 and viceversa, with the MODE knob in AUTO, engine running, transmission in Park.
when someone moves the TEMP knob, and after a short delay, you should see the Heater valve's linkage moving one way or the other, meaning the valve is opening and closing as it should.
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