XJ6 & XJ12 Series I, II & III 1968-1992
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Re-build time

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Old 02-15-2016, 04:54 PM
rfarmery's Avatar
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Default Re-build time

So after shearing a head stud in the block and then shearing an easy out in the sheared head stud it's time to get things in order.

The engine and transmission are due to be removed in about 3 weeks due to time and space constraints, in the meantime as the intake manifold is off i decided to get started cleaning it up and making sure everything is in place...

The 6 injectors plus the cold start injector went off to Dave at Jaguar Fuel Injector Service in Florida, thankfully all 7 injectors are in serviceable condition and Dave has turned them around "toot sweet", i can highly recommend his services if you are in need, excellent customer service...

The general idea is to re-build the engine and replace parts necessary to keep costs low but if it's more cost effective in the long run to replace something rather than re-build then so be it. I am "hoping" i can re-use the same pistons and get away with a new set of rings along with a full bearing set without machining the crankshaft, i know the bores look pretty good but have not yet measured them. i will as a matter of course have the block and head skimmed and removal of the stud/easy-out will be solved by use of EDM. Worst case is a new block.

As much as i am looking forward to the task i know it's going to take a while and cost more than i hope, but in the end the car should run like new.
 
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Old 02-15-2016, 05:59 PM
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An '87 XJ6 Series 3 is a very late car, so hopefully not too many miles, or wear in the engine. Later engines had "Sursulf" treated crankshafts (from 8L 167200). I'm no sure about the ability to regrind these treated crankshafts, they theoretically shouldn't need it. I would certainly check the crank journals for ovality anyway. You'll probably get away with the existing pistons. I would make sure the inlet valve guide seals are replaced as these do harden up with age, and also check out the timing chains, and, or course, the rear main seal. You can buy neoprene lip-type seal conversion kits to eliminate the rope seal, but crankshaft must be machined to remove the scroll on the seal seating area.
 
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Old 02-15-2016, 08:32 PM
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Fraser

Miles are just 82000, the cylinder bores are still showing some cross hatching which is very nice, zero lip at the top.
Interesting about the crank, i didn't know they had been "treated", if all looks good then a nice set of Vandervall bearings throughout. i have always been led to believe that there were the best money could buy
Good idea on the stem seals.

When it comes to the crank seal conversion i am going to ask one of the local suppliers for the machining details so i can run the them past my local machine shop to get an idea of cost. As the crank is out maybe it might be worth it.

New timing chains and guides for sure along with a nice dip for the block to remove all of the crud, i have most of the core plugs out and wow what a mess i found in there. i have to have a new radiator as the cooling fins are all but missing in 1 area, the water pump will be inspected and also the oil pump.

The car ran a little hot so i am getting quite **** about the cooling system, perhaps i might look into an electric fan in place of the viscous fan that is showing some signs of imminent failure. i am happy to build a new cowl/mounting arrangement along with a control module so it should be a fun project.
 
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