Hello
I have a 1980 XJS and I was doing maintenance on electrical stuff under the bonnet. At the end of the day, I went to start her and I could not get the key into the ignition barrel (sigh)
Found this thread detailing the removal of the barrel (cool)
Found the 2 x shear bolts – one facing the fire wall, one facing towards my feet (cool)
Each bolt had a slot cut into the heads for easy removal (cool – has obviously been out before).
Put a screw driver into the bolt facing the fire wall – very lose and came out easy (cool)
Put a screw driver into the feet facing bolt – position of the bolt is directly above the bottom of the dash supporting beam – unable to turn bolt with screw driver (sigh)
Tried the lever technique as explained by Carl - unsuccessful by this time my sighs gave way to a “you got to be kidding me”.
It was time for a rest.

Decided the only way to get this bolt out was to remove the steering column.
Undid the lower steering column connection bolts – cool
Went to undo the upper column connection bolts – seems to have a lock nut on the upper side of the thread – unable to get a spanner on it to stop it turning, and then if I could get a spanner on it – how would I get the nut back on it once I reassembled the unit – biggest sigh for the day
Time for another rest – battle to resume another day.

Another day arrived
Undid the 5 screws to release the instrument cluster – cool
Had a bit of a look around – realised I would not be able to remove the cluster without removing the steering wheel (sigh)
Removed the horn button (cool)
Removed the horn centre piece – it was good to see that it had one as it doesn't work (On the to do list)

Undid the steering wheel lock nut and undid it Ύ’s the way up the thread, gave the wheel a tug and it came loose (very cool - last one I did was a nightmare)
Un-clipped the 2 connection looms holding the instrument panel on (getting to like this)
Had to climb under the dash again to disconnect the mechanical speedo cable (cool)
Traced the tacho vacuum hose (?) – it went nowhere – Explains why the tacho doesn’t work (on the to do list)
Dash came out easily – today so far is a lot better than yesterday.
Undid the 2 upper steering column bolts, un-clipped the turn indicators, windscreen wipers and lights electrical connection and then removed the steering column.Now it was time again to attempt to get this locking mechanism stud out again – before the attempt – it was time for another rest to gather the courage.
Armed with the dremmel – a slot for a big screwdriver was sliced in the bolt head, with one person holding the mechanism and one person holding the screw driver down very hard and attempting to undo the bolt, it suddenly came free and let the dancing for joy commence – there was simply no way we could have done that in situ.The locking mechanism was removed, a paper clip straightened and slipped into the key lock part and felt around a little. Key part was then turned upside down and WD40 sprayed inside. After a short period – the key was back in the lock, still a bit stiff – but operational – it has been a good day.The day after
Took the lock to the lock smith – unrepairable – which was expected – advised that the key way has a lot of where in it (which is very obvious). I will track down a new one in the very near future.
Reassembled everything, placed M6 Allen screws in the grub screws as per Carl above. When it comes to installing the new lock – I will have to modify the Allen key to fit, but this will be a lot easier than the procedure just performed. Put the key in and away she went
Thank's for the thread above, made the job so much easier

Cheers
Steve

Distance between Allen stud and lower dash support

 

Good man - persistence pays! Sometimes!

 

Aye!

Persistence is a good thing. It has served me well. Albeit, some have termed my version as stubborn! Supposedly, not an attribute. I took issue with my VP boss's use in an evaluation as a fault. So, I got him to look it up in the dictionary. Old days, paper version!! All but one of the synonyms were complimentary. I won that one or did I???

I was far better at my craft than he, But, he was a far better politician than I.


As Dad did not get a middle name, I did not either. So, if needed, I use "P.". for persistence.

Just came in from the breezeway. Billy has adopted it during our rains as his stable!!! Gave him his med loaded goat pellets. He loves them, bitter meds, notwithstanding.

Carl.

 

Hi
After 14 years in storage due to a blown head gasket (yes, I will get around to it one day) I needed to move my 1985 XJ6 Sovereign to have a storage hoist installed.
Problem was that my keys had been lost (I think I threw them out with a bunch of other "orphan" keys).
Much pushing and shoving with the use of wheel dollies eventually got the car out and pushed aside in the carport.
4 post storage hoist is now installed and its great, should have done this years ago.
Problem now is to get a new set of keys cut so that I can at least turn the steering on the XJ6.
After reading this thread and several others I tried using a small cold chisel to turn the headless bolts holding the steering/ignition lock but no luck.
I then got out my trusty Dremel and was able to cut a large groove on both bolts and removed them with a screwdriver.
With the steering/ignition lock out my attention now turned to the need for the dome headed key for the doors, boot, glovebox and petrol caps.

If I take out the glovebox lock and have a key made, will that also work on the doors?
I have been told that some glovebox locks use fewer tumblers that the door locks so it may not work.

I welcome any thoughts or comments on this.
Regards
Paul

HAPP25 4 Post Storage Hoist Ignition Lock Removed from XJ6

 

When I got my car, 1976 Series 2, all 3 keys came too.
The Ignition key also operated the driver door lock.
Glove box key also opened trunk/boot and one gas cap.
3rd key opened passenger door and other gas cap.
As I thought this was an Incredibly STUPID arrangement, I rebuilt the odd gas cap lock so they both work with one key (that also unlocks the passenger door). Tanks are plumbed together anyway.

Then I had 2 more full sets made (total of 3 sets), one for husband to get in passenger door and one set clearly labeled and stashed away on a wad of spare keys.
(';')

 

Hi LnrB
Thanks for your reply. On the Series 3, that I have, the ignition key only operates the ignition lock, whereas the door key also operates the glovebox, trunk/boot and fuel caps. My quandary is this; by making a key for the glovebox will it also work on the doors?

 

Hi Paul,
as long as nothing was changed like Lnrb ran into, the glovebox key should unlock everything. The only difference is the dished valet key if you had one or used that blank ( I've been unable to find blanks anywhere ! ). The "wings" are thicker on those to prevent it from entering the glovebox & boot locks. You could actually use one to make a regular key since it is cut exactly the same.

Ignition key blank
Waso = FZ/FR rubber headed OEM
Ilco = FT6R all metal

Doors, glovebox, gas caps, boot
Ilco = BL6

Hope this helps !
Cheers,
Brian

 

Hi Brian
I ended up removing the ignition lock and the driver's door lock and took them to a locksmith.
He made new keys for both. The door lock key now works on the boot and glovebox but not the passenger door.
I am not too concerned about the passenger door lock as I always enter the car from the driver's side.

Cheers
Paul

 

Took the passenger door lock out and back to the locksmith.
He has fixed it so that the door key operates on all doors, boot and glovebox.
Ignition lock is back in the car and works well.
Onto the next problem, gummed up fuel tank.

Cheers