I see the differences between the two Drive Plates. The earlier one seems to be beefier and has the rivets holding the flex plate in place (that seem to loosen over time). The later "solid" one doesn't seem to have the rivets, nor the "flex plate". I also understand they are interchangeable. And as I am installing a rebuilt BW 66 back on my XJ6C with a rebuilt Torque Converter, I want to do what's best for the long term. In the absence of being able to acquire a solid Drive Plate, instead of trying to pean over the rivet backs, can I just drill them out and dispense with the "flex plate" part. Because it seems that's what has been done with the solid plate. Anyone done this?

Also, is the solid plate lighter than the earlier beefier one? And how might that affect my smoothness at idle if I was able to switch over?

Many thanks, Bill

 

NEVER MIND the idea of the drilling out of the rivets and dispensing with the flex plate. Just looked again and that's not possible. I see how it works now. But I still have the question about the weight difference between the two.

 

Bill,
I fitted a solid flywheel / flex plate when the BW66 was replaced, I feel no difference in power other than a high pitch whinning noise in first gear that dissapears when it changes to 2nd gear.

I don't know if it comes from the transmission or the solid flywheel.

 

Well... my latest stumbling block is even with my Impact Wrench set on max and my compressor at max 125lbs, I can't get the ten 3/4" bolts holding the Drive Plate to the crankshaft. And I can't figure out how to hold the Drive Plate secure without turning, to try it with a big *** torque wrench or bar. MAJOR PROBLEM!

Anybody have any ideas? I have calls around to see if I can find a Mobile Mechanic.

 

What impact wrenches are you using?

 

 

I'm not a fan of wedging pry bars against the ring gear to keep the flywheel form turning, but I have done it before. There are that might work. If I were in your place I would:

(1) Grab 2 large breaker bars with the appropriate size sockets. Put one on the bolt at 12 o'clock and the other on the bolt at 6 o'clock while holding one and pushing the other. You're basically using the opposing torque from the wrenches to keep the crankshaft from turning. If this works, you can see the problem that results when you get back to the last two bolts....
(2) It's the holiday season and you should treat yourself. Buy or borrow a . That's the one I have - with 1,700 ft-lbs of torque available you'll have all them zipped off in no time. It's never failed to turn anything I've used it on - crankshaft pulleys, the flex plate bolts on my V12, stuck lug nuts.
(3) Heat, but for personal reasons I'm not a fan of anything hotter than a MAPP torch.

 

To your point, I'll bet my Impact Wrench is only 900lbs torque.

 

While 900 might seem like a lot, I've found that the new battery wrenches (especially if you pick up a brushless one) are far superior.

If the Dewalt seems like too much to spend, this would be a good choice too.

 

Good choice. I've got feelers out to see what I might be able to borrow. Hate to spend all that money for 10 bolts. The present impact wrench has served well for years for all other jobs.

 

Disassembly has finally come to close. I was able to borrow an impact wrench that removed the 10 bolts off the drive plate, and removed the plate from the crankshaft. Did NOT find any of the rivets loose at all, so in a quandary as to the wisdom of changing over to a solid drive plate. It cleaned up just fine. See pics below.


Bill