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Series 3 rear bumper chrome plated quarter section
Dear friends, I wonder if anybody has successfully refitted the stud underneath this section that clamps to the centre section. Mine has been lost and as I am overhauling the rear bumper and rear fog loghts, I would like to finish the job properly. I was thinking that mig-welding would almost certainly affect the chrome finish, not sure about silver soldering or even lead soldering, which isn't as hot a process, wouldn't be as strong but might be strong enough? Or should I just accept it and hope that rubber joining strips stay in place? All suggestions will be gratefully received. Kindest regards, Danny.
Danny,
those studs break sooner or later. Jaguar tried to make them invisible or "blind" but the result is they break. Welding will damage the chrome causing a very expensive repair.
one solution is to drill through the remaining stub and use a chromed bumper bolt with a small head. It is not an ugly solution and it eliminates the problem forever. To make it look "normal" you would do it to both side blades of the bumper.
Hi Jose,You did ask me to let you know what I decided to do.
I re-assembled the rear bumper. I must admit it is a real fiddle to get everything aligned. I found that the stud in question is impossible to tighten when the chrome sections are in place. There is no access for any type of spanner (wrench), all I could manage was to squeeze a couple of fingers in there and just about turn the nut. Not what I wanted.
I decided to fit the quarter section to the centre strip and insert the rubber joining piece, tighten the nut on the stud with a 10mm spanner, then offered it up to the rubber top.
After adjusting the the side mounts, I then went to the other side and fitted a new joining rubber to the one with no stud, and then proceeded tackle this side. The rear of the centre panel was lower where the stud was missing, so I cut a small wooden wedge and tapped it in place between the bottom of the chrome and the body seams. A bit of a bodge I must admit, but I am pleased with the outcome, I cannot remember ever seeing the right and left sides of the bumper right. One side was always too far away and the other side was too low! I reckon when I had the two panels under the tank replaced some 20 years ago, the fitter didn't have the patience to fiddle about!
Anyway Jose, all is now well, (for the time being!) Thanks again, Danny.
the wedge is the fix that works. I did mine like that too.
you do know that the center section is adjustable vertically, correct? If you look underneath it, you can see three L brackets and three screws.
also you do not have to remove the nuts from the side chromed blades, just loosen them a little since the chromed side piece slides onto the center piece horizontally.
it took me a lot of time to realize that the nuts do not come off the stud and that is why they break when trying to remove them, they are designed to stay on the stud but who knows that?
I use a socket with a long extension and a small ratchet to loosen or tighten the nut.
Many thanks Jose, I did not know that, Wow, what a complicated bumper this is once you get into it! As mine is now set, I do not think I will do any more adjusting unless forced to! It's been a pleasure once more Jose, I have much more confidence in my own limited abilities thanks to yourself, Doug, and so many other kind members since I joined this fantastic group! All the very, best, Danny.
I just did this about two weeks ago. I used some bolts that are used on Garage Doors along with 3M panel Adhesive and a Lock Nuts.
I used Dremel tool to grind the residue of the old snapped connector down to shiny metal. Then sanded a small patch to get it all shiny. Then i got some of
bolts and corresponding lock nuts. There's a square portion at the base of the bolts that you have to shave down so the washer fits. Then you cut the bolts to the right length and make sure you can thread the nut on. After that, glue them in place and good to go. I imagine JB Weld might work in place of Panel Adhesive.
Hi Jose, I have been thinking about your comment using a socket on a long extension and small rachet to loosen or tighten the nut. I assume that in your case the nut was visble from below. My stud was welded to the quarter bumper to match the inside slot of the centre section and therefore hidden from sight by the seams of bodywork. My thoughts are that when Jaguar made these cars and assembled them in the factory, they must have had a special tool, I suspect a 10mm open ended spanner head welded to a long shaft at 90 degrees. Otherwise I see no way of getting to this stud, and I suggest that maybe your section had the stud welded to the rear to match the rear slot on the centre rail which IS visible from underneath.
Just my thoughts. Very many thanks, Danny.
Hi Muttony, thank you for your contribution, it was great to see how another member had tackled this problem, well done. Those bolts look ideal especially after grinding the shoulder away. Now all we hope for is the panel adhesive holds up after some miles of vibration. Fingers crossed! Thanks again, kindest regards, Danny.
Good morning all, just wanted to put in a plug for automotive silicon. That stuff is perfect for attaching trim in a secure way, and it's completely reversible later.
Danny,
I haven't worked on the rear bumper of my S3 yet, but from your description here this special "socket" may be of some help. Should be available at any tool supplier. Called a crows foot. Comes in same sizes as combo wrenches.
mine have only 1, and that one is the one that breaks. Although the center piece has 1 round hole and one half-moon hole, there is no sign of a second stud ever being there.
Yes that would do it! If I have to remove the rear bumper again, I will get one of these at 10mm.
Many thanks, it may well be of interest to members undertaking this job. Many thanks Dave.
Hi Jose, the left side has one stud, aligned to mate with the rear slot of the centre chrome. The right section had no stud at all, I assumed it was there at one time and been lost somewhere between 1984 and now. I hope this makes sense. The centre section has two slots at each end and one hole. But as I said, the job is finished now and hopefully I will not be going down this road again. I was just thinking about members in the future coming across these post and finding them useful. Thanks again Jose. Kindest regards, Danny.