Well, after some issues, all runs fine now. I bought the lpg kit second had, but the reducer turned out to be no good. Output pressure should read about 1.2 bar, but it gave around 3.5. Replacement fixe the issue.

Yesterday a new issue occured. The trunk wont open anymore. When I turn the knob, it starts out fine but the further I turn, the more the knob starts to push itself outwards, out of the bootlid.

Anybody got a clue how to fix this, and how I can open the boot again?

 

Well, thanks for the tips :-)

I drilled a hole in the lid, behind the license plate. That enabled me to unlock the boot with a screwdriver. Fixed the lock, and it's all good now.



Still some work to do though. Havent got the spedometer working yet. I do have a controller to convert the frequentie signal to voltage, so I know what to do now, its just that I need time to actually do it.

Then I need a radio, and need to fix the lights. I should have stripped out all the originel wiring while I was working on the engine swap. It's a real crime, and besides the windscreen wiper, I aint using a single wire of it... Now my brake lights stopped, as well as tail lights but indicators still function. Gonna strip it all out.

but hell the car drives great. Drove 100 kilometer on LPG yesterday, runs like a dream! did 160 kph last week (gps spedometer used), and it felt good! :-)

 

Wow, it's been a while. The Jag keeps improving slowly. Also, regularly running the car has made everything going smoother (remember it had been standing for 10 years when I bought it, and it took me another year to get it running. After 11 years things need to loosen up a bit)

Saturday I went to a series 3 scrapper basically next to my parents. Scored some chrome.

These were originally aluminium, without Jaguar written on them. This is much better:



Curved exhaust pipes:

Originally, the first series 1 didn't have these. But somehow, the slipstream of the car would drag exhaust fumes into the cars interior. So from a certain MY these curved pipes were attached to keep the cockpit gas-free. And the look nice of course.

Scored a proper, injection fuel tank. My self-welded tank leaks a bit when filled up to the top and it smells also, as the damp system isn't done properly. This original tank is in good nick, and can be used with external fuel pump. I am thinking of using the fuel pump from the braker xj40 I have. Would that do for the 4.0 engine?



And some carpet to maak the boot look better.



that's it for now.

 

Coming along nicely. Keep the pics coming.

 

Hi, Series 3 speedo can work with a prop pickup and a little box to calibrate it to the diff ratio. The engine ecu also needs this pulse.

 

Hi, you can use either. Have you thought about using the non-sport trans from a 3.2?

 

???

I got the speedo working. The 4.0 liter AJ6 works with zf 4hp24 electrical gearbox. From within the gearbox comes a pulse signal to the engine management en transmission control unit.

From here, also a pulsed wire goes to the dash. Simple electrics can translate the pulse into a voltage range from 0-5 v, and you can use the xj40 gauge which is built in the series 1 unit as can be seen in this thread.

I never considered 3.2 box. I like the sportmode button you know... :-)

 

Whoa, that has been a long time.

Some updates:

I replaced headliner and all. Was ugly, dirty and hanging a bit



Now it is all nice and grey again.




Then I put some carpet in the boot. Went from this:



to this: (note, i still had to vacuum clean it)




then I mounted a revised cranksensor bracket. Gives 5 degrees advanced ignition timing, and a it makes a shitload of a difference. From being powerfull but lazy, the engine is now wild and eager to take off. Much better throttle response. Best improvement I made on the car so far.



Then a rear wheel bearing failed. As I had just picked up a scrapper with a limited slip diff, i decided to swap the entire rear assembly, rather than fixing the bearing.



Put car on stands, unbolt rear assebly, and simply lift the car off the rear axle. Suprised me how easy a job this was.



Next week, I will put this rear end on the series 1.

one thing I noticed though. Where the diff is attached to the steel case or framework, there were some cracks, from the bolt holes to the ends. I will make a pic next time I get to work on the car.

Will fix that first probably.

 

Wow, great work. but, few of us have a giant fork lift at our disposal.


My son has a much smaller one that does a lot of stuff, but not up to heisting a Jaguar!!


The little Buda that powers it smokes like a train, but runs fairly well. as a machinist/fabricator, he is more than capable of rebuilding the little four. but, that cobbler, kids and shoes thing!!!


My lump has a box to convert GM VSS signals to something the Jaguar speedo can handle. it only works sorta. I have another that will convert from the PCM to the speedo. On the todo list that continues to grow.


Merry Christmas


Carl

 

Hey thanks.

yeah the fork lift is not mine, it's from my in-laws. But I know how to operate it, so I can use it anytime. Very nice machine!

For putting it back under my car, I will be using a 2 column car lift, however, as this fork lift scratches the underside of the car if you are not careful.

for the scrapper I didn't car, but I want to preserve my car if possible :-)

 

last week I prepared the rear axle. I am replacing the discs, pads and some bushings. As the discs are located directly next to the differential, it woud be stupid not to replace them right now.

first thing I notices was that 1 of the 4 brackets that bolt the rear assembly to the car, missed a bolt. Seemed rather crucial.


second thing: 2 of the 4 upper bolt holes for the bolts connecting the diff to the rear frame are cracked. Seems to happen more often. Welded it shut, so it's alright again:



For easy acces to the brake discs, I decided to take of the wishbones and springs.



then I thought I might as well take out the diff.


Took off the cover, and found nice clean oil.

Put it back:


Then put grease in all grease nippels. Now waiting for new brake discs. Wonder how long that will take over the holidays....

 

Wilfred,
Now is the time to replace those output shaft seals too! They're leaking, and will saturate your new rotors and pads with nasty gear oil..
Bill

 

Thanks for the tip.

how are you sure they are leaking? The old discs were pretty dry, and the oil level in the diff was correct (I took off the cover).

It's not that I dont want to replace them, but I wanted to mount the stuff this weekend. If I need to order those seals first, it's gonna take an extra week, and it's my daily driver...

 

FYI the series 3 rear end is a 2.88 compared to your 3.31 or 3.54 rear in the series 1, so your acceleration is going to suffer and be like starting off a car in second gear. The series 3 I don't believe is limited slip. The only rear I believe that were limited slip are from an xjs. You could keep the center diff from your series 1and put the new parts from the series 3. I believe the tell tale sign of a limited slip was a metal tag on the diff would say "pwr lok". The tag also has the diff ratio on it.

Thanks for your write up it have enjoyed reading it.

-Scott

 

Hello, I am not sure wether or not the diff is the original series 3 diff.

I am sure however, that it is a limited slip diff. I opened the diff, and saw with my own eyes it is a limited slip diff. No doubt about that.

I also found the PWR lock tag you mention by the way. When I think of it, I wil take a pic.

I dont know what I have in my series 1 now. I think 3.31, and therefore a 3.54 would be welcome as it is a little slow at take off. But even if it is 3.54, and it will remain the same it is fine. Just less spinning at take off.

Therefore, the problems you foresee will not occur.
Second, I am sure it is a 3.54 diff, as that is what it said on the tag. It could be someone switched tags,but that seems a bit far fetched in my opion... :-)

 

Wilfred, I just read thru this whole thread, kudos on pulling it off so quickly. I've seen many of these types of swap threads that suddenly go silent (presumably the person realizes they have gone over their limits in terms of capability/skill/resolve/time/desire). Or it takes 5 plus years, they are still plugging away, and the car does not even start.

Good for you, and glad to see you learn and adapt along the way. You inspire me to at least get off my lazy butt and do something. Cheers!

 

Well...thanks! :-)

 

Hey Wilfred,
I was speaking mostly as a general rule that they leak, and the pics show a fair amount of oily grease on the output shaft housings there. Thing is, the oil will burn off the rotors with heat but the smell of burnt diff oil will linger, as will the greasy pumpkin and glazed rotors and pads. Yours may be fine though.
I'm betting you have it back in at this point, I haven't been back to the forum lately. How is it all working?
Bill

 

Yes, the rear diff is back under the car.




I found out the old diff has 4.09 ratio. Now I have 3.54. This means I will be slower at take off, but lower revs at cruising speed. I thougt I had 3.01 ratio, but wasn't sure. I think I can live with this, but I haven't been able to make a test drive yet.

I will let you know how it drives now.

 

Hey too bad you're across the pond, I'd love to have that 4.09 diff!