Series I with AJ6 engine
#1
12-05-2013, 08:48 AM
Series I with AJ6 engine
Hello,
I am working on an XJ6 series 1. Engine was bad, so I decided to replace it with a 4.0 AJ6 engine.
I bought a donor car, XJ40, two weeks ago, and yesterday I started stripping it.
If you are interested, I can keep you updated on the project.
Here's the series I:
Broken Engine:
First I wanted to repair the xk engine. A cilinder wall was damaged, so I took out the lining:
Then I realised the costs of repairing the xk engine would exceed the costs of an XJ40, and an AJ6 engine simply is better. So I got me this one:
With a smoothly running 4.0 liter engine.
That's it for now. Cheers.
I am working on an XJ6 series 1. Engine was bad, so I decided to replace it with a 4.0 AJ6 engine.
I bought a donor car, XJ40, two weeks ago, and yesterday I started stripping it.
If you are interested, I can keep you updated on the project.
Here's the series I:
Broken Engine:
First I wanted to repair the xk engine. A cilinder wall was damaged, so I took out the lining:
Then I realised the costs of repairing the xk engine would exceed the costs of an XJ40, and an AJ6 engine simply is better. So I got me this one:
With a smoothly running 4.0 liter engine.
That's it for now. Cheers.
Top Answer
01-31-2021, 01:39 PM
So, thats been a really long time. I quit working on the jag, because I bought my first hous. Which was a ruin, and resulted in 4 years of building. While also having 2 kids at the time and starting my own business. With all that sorted, I really wanted to continue working on the jag. It sat there, as I left it 4-5 years ago. As shown in my previous post in this thread. Although I had moved it to my own workshop, as the house came with a huge workshop! I put a lift in it. And now the time has come...! Get the jag back on the road againn. As I left it years ago, I had welded all the bad spots and completely rewired it. Now what I neede to do, was paint it ant put it back together:
I painted the thing, with a roller, but honestly the result is really good. Especially when considering it's only a few degrees above freezing in the shed, and Paint doesn't flow that good when cold.
This is how it looked during painting:
Attachment 224981
Attachment 224982
Attachment 224983
Then I give it a treatment with Mike Sanders Fett. According to the internet, this is the best stuff to preserve hollow spaces, such as doors, sills and chassis.
you need to heat it up, than spray it everywhere.
Attachment 224984
Attachment 224985
Attachment 224986
Than I started putting the thing back together.
Mounted the windows:
Attachment 224987
fitted the headlights:
Attachment 224988
put some carpet inside:
Attachment 224989
Attachment 224990
cleaning seats
Attachment 224991
put rear seats back in, AND mounted 3 point seatbelts in the rear, for the kids. 3 belts in total
Attachment 224992
and started putting everything bak in, inside..
Attachment 224993
Attachment 224994
Keep on going this week, and get it on the road for the first time in 5 years!!!
I painted the thing, with a roller, but honestly the result is really good. Especially when considering it's only a few degrees above freezing in the shed, and Paint doesn't flow that good when cold.
This is how it looked during painting:
Attachment 224981
Attachment 224982
Attachment 224983
Then I give it a treatment with Mike Sanders Fett. According to the internet, this is the best stuff to preserve hollow spaces, such as doors, sills and chassis.
you need to heat it up, than spray it everywhere.
Attachment 224984
Attachment 224985
Attachment 224986
Than I started putting the thing back together.
Mounted the windows:
Attachment 224987
fitted the headlights:
Attachment 224988
put some carpet inside:
Attachment 224989
Attachment 224990
cleaning seats
Attachment 224991
put rear seats back in, AND mounted 3 point seatbelts in the rear, for the kids. 3 belts in total
Attachment 224992
and started putting everything bak in, inside..
Attachment 224993
Attachment 224994
Keep on going this week, and get it on the road for the first time in 5 years!!!
#2
12-05-2013, 08:52 AM
Veteran Member
Join Date: Mar 2008
Location: Pacific Northwest USA
Posts: 24,740
Received 10,749 Likes
on
7,100 Posts
The following users liked this post:
Mguar (01-30-2024)
#3
12-05-2013, 08:21 PM
Veteran Member
The following users liked this post:
Mguar (01-30-2024)
#4
12-06-2013, 02:25 AM
I have been seriously considering this for my series 3 for a fair while but am waiting for either an auto or head gasket to go first. Most people seem to opt for the 3.6 as it seems there is some witchcraft associated with the electronic 4.0 auto. I cant see it being much of an issue, ill wait to hear how you go! the other isuue i can see is the electronic spedo as the xj40 have the sensor in the diff. What do you plan to do here? Some people talk of mounting something on the drive shaft flange on the back of the auto. Have you looked into this. Obviously you will then have to use the guts from the xj40 spedo or possibly the a series 3 but i think they have a different pulse system to the xj40.
I look forward to seeing more,
Regards Jay
I look forward to seeing more,
Regards Jay
#5
12-06-2013, 11:13 AM
Veteran Member
Please don't delete that photo of the XK engine bore showing the two machined coolant passages !! Could I please take a copy as it tells in a picture what takes a thousand words to describe why the blocks crack between the bores. In fact, could we use it on the forum if others come on with the same problem ? I think I see a crack between the bores on your block although the photo is a bit out of focus at the block deck. The only cure for these cracks is to fit top-hat liners, i.e. they are lipped so as to cover the crack, and give a good seat to the head gasket fire rings.
BTW, the head gaskets can fail on the AJ6 engines too, but not for the same reason. The AJ6 engine has very few issues and is a whole lot more reliable than the XK. Not really surprising when one considers the XK was designed in 1944, and the engine introduced to the public in the XK120 sports car in 1948 !
Nice read here on the AJ6, by an engineer who helped develop them.
http://www.jagweb.com/aj6eng/aj6_performance.php
BTW, the head gaskets can fail on the AJ6 engines too, but not for the same reason. The AJ6 engine has very few issues and is a whole lot more reliable than the XK. Not really surprising when one considers the XK was designed in 1944, and the engine introduced to the public in the XK120 sports car in 1948 !
Nice read here on the AJ6, by an engineer who helped develop them.
http://www.jagweb.com/aj6eng/aj6_performance.php
Last edited by Fraser Mitchell; 12-06-2013 at 11:19 AM.
#6
12-08-2013, 03:50 AM
Hey, first: I never delete pictures, and also do not relocate them so that a url on a forum won't work anymore.
second, the engine is still standing the same way in my families barn. I could take some extra pictures.
I know how important clear pictures in the internet can be. That's how I learned all the stuff I know about engines and cars :-)
So, I'm happy to help.
second, the engine is still standing the same way in my families barn. I could take some extra pictures.
I know how important clear pictures in the internet can be. That's how I learned all the stuff I know about engines and cars :-)
So, I'm happy to help.
#7
12-08-2013, 03:51 AM
Trending Topics
#8
12-08-2013, 09:40 AM
Veteran Member
Join Date: Mar 2008
Location: Pacific Northwest USA
Posts: 24,740
Received 10,749 Likes
on
7,100 Posts
To the best of my knowledge all the 4.0 AJ6 cars used a non-electronic ZF transmission.
The electronic ZF was used behind the 4.0 *AJ16* engine.
Cheers
DD
#9
12-08-2013, 10:41 AM
Senior Member
Well if anybody is interested. I have a dismantled 3.6 AJ6 engine in my shed if anybody wants it. It has been professionally cleaned and rebored, the crank journals reserviced and the head skimmed. I also have a full set of compatible parts, bearing shells, pistons and piston rings ect. In fact all the parts required for a total rebuild except for a gasket set. That has already been scrounged from me by a participant at the local race track after he suffered an engine failure during a long distance auto race.
Only problem being I live near Toronto, Canada and shipping could be a problem.
#10
12-08-2013, 10:50 AM
All 4.0 AJ6/AJ16 ZF 4HP24 cars have TCM controlled gearboxes.
You can bolt a 4HP22 to a 4.0 and use the 3.6 fuel injection. I would leave the 4.0 fuel injectors in the intake for the slightly larger displacement.
A throttle with the cable for the 4HP22 should not be hard to install.
Sounds like a good project.
bob gauff
You can bolt a 4HP22 to a 4.0 and use the 3.6 fuel injection. I would leave the 4.0 fuel injectors in the intake for the slightly larger displacement.
A throttle with the cable for the 4HP22 should not be hard to install.
Sounds like a good project.
bob gauff
#11
12-08-2013, 11:55 AM
Veteran Member
Hey, first: I never delete pictures, and also do not relocate them so that a url on a forum won't work anymore.
second, the engine is still standing the same way in my families barn. I could take some extra pictures.
I know how important clear pictures in the internet can be. That's how I learned all the stuff I know about engines and cars :-)
So, I'm happy to help.
second, the engine is still standing the same way in my families barn. I could take some extra pictures.
I know how important clear pictures in the internet can be. That's how I learned all the stuff I know about engines and cars :-)
So, I'm happy to help.
#12
12-08-2013, 12:15 PM
Veteran Member
Join Date: Mar 2008
Location: Pacific Northwest USA
Posts: 24,740
Received 10,749 Likes
on
7,100 Posts
#13
12-09-2013, 02:22 AM
@Fraser Mitchell: I can do that, but only as soon as wednesday.
Concerning the gearbox: I was planning to use the 4hp24. It can be done, cause I have seen a series 1 with the same gearbox.
there's 1 thing I'm not sure about. Where does the info on the actual speed come from? I know the gearbox needs/uses this, but heard different things about it. One said it comes from the ABS sensors, but I also heard it comes from a sensor in the differntial???
Well, I will find it if I strip down the car, but it works better if you know what you're looking for.
(oh, this will be a slow project. I only have one night a week...)
Concerning the gearbox: I was planning to use the 4hp24. It can be done, cause I have seen a series 1 with the same gearbox.
there's 1 thing I'm not sure about. Where does the info on the actual speed come from? I know the gearbox needs/uses this, but heard different things about it. One said it comes from the ABS sensors, but I also heard it comes from a sensor in the differntial???
Well, I will find it if I strip down the car, but it works better if you know what you're looking for.
(oh, this will be a slow project. I only have one night a week...)
#14
12-10-2013, 09:38 AM
Veteran Member
some info
As far as I know the 4HP22 in Jags are non electronic and has a hydraulic governor on the output shaft of the transmission to control shift points and torque converter lockup. It also has a throttle cable for modulation. This swap may be preferred by some for it's simplicity.
As far as I know...The 4hp24's in all vehicles are electronic and the TCU will need a road speed signal from the differential. I know it is possible can to fit a center section and diff cover with the sensor from an late XJS . I've heard on the interweb that the XJ40 center section can be fitted to the earlier Series 1/2/3 diff case but I have no first hand experience with this. The Xj40 and late XJS diff carrier has a series of metal fingers that signal the speed sensor in the diff cover. This signal is read by the TCU and shift points are calculated using TPS position and engine speed.
In any case you need to make sure the diff ratio is close when you do your swap or the transmission wont work right. Series 1's and Xj40s usually have diff ratios in the mid 3's so it should work out. An series 3 with the lower diff ratio would not shift at the right points and drivability would suffer.
Sounds like a great project but many obstacles to over come. If you have a clapped out Xj40, a set of XJS 6cyl motor mounts and lots of time it should be a fantastic motoring experience when complete.
As far as I know...The 4hp24's in all vehicles are electronic and the TCU will need a road speed signal from the differential. I know it is possible can to fit a center section and diff cover with the sensor from an late XJS . I've heard on the interweb that the XJ40 center section can be fitted to the earlier Series 1/2/3 diff case but I have no first hand experience with this. The Xj40 and late XJS diff carrier has a series of metal fingers that signal the speed sensor in the diff cover. This signal is read by the TCU and shift points are calculated using TPS position and engine speed.
In any case you need to make sure the diff ratio is close when you do your swap or the transmission wont work right. Series 1's and Xj40s usually have diff ratios in the mid 3's so it should work out. An series 3 with the lower diff ratio would not shift at the right points and drivability would suffer.
Sounds like a great project but many obstacles to over come. If you have a clapped out Xj40, a set of XJS 6cyl motor mounts and lots of time it should be a fantastic motoring experience when complete.
#15
12-10-2013, 11:56 PM
#16
12-11-2013, 02:29 AM
Wilfred, is the autobox shown in your pictures a hp22 or 24? 4 speed. Forgive my ignorance, but I take it that the engine shown shares the same cylinder block as all other including 3.8/3.4 ,as on mk2s, therefore the bell housing would be common!!!!!. Could you confirm how the speedo is driven on your vehicle, as it reads that there is no cable drive from the box, as on earlier vehicles. By now you must know where I am coming from.
regards barry
regards barry
Last edited by barrymk2; 12-11-2013 at 02:39 AM. Reason: rephrased
#17
12-11-2013, 09:33 AM
Veteran Member
Wilfred, is the autobox shown in your pictures a hp22 or 24? 4 speed. Forgive my ignorance, but I take it that the engine shown shares the same cylinder block as all other including 3.8/3.4 ,as on mk2s, therefore the bell housing would be common!!!!!. Could you confirm how the speedo is driven on your vehicle, as it reads that there is no cable drive from the box, as on earlier vehicles. By now you must know where I am coming from.
regards barry
regards barry
Last edited by Fraser Mitchell; 12-11-2013 at 09:39 AM.
#19
12-12-2013, 02:23 AM
Okay, first thing first. A picture of the possible crack between the bores:
Seems to me like there is no crack yet.
And on with stripping the XJ40.
Lots of rust already, but who cares!
I have pulled the ECU connectors into the engine bay. I want to keep the loom in one piece:
And I started stripping the gearselector part.
Questions:
- Am I correct in assuming I only need the wires from engine to ECU to get it running?
I am working on cutting out the loom, to get a bit of overview. But I have to be careful as I dont want to cut wires I need...:-)
Seems to me like there is no crack yet.
And on with stripping the XJ40.
Lots of rust already, but who cares!
I have pulled the ECU connectors into the engine bay. I want to keep the loom in one piece:
And I started stripping the gearselector part.
Questions:
- Am I correct in assuming I only need the wires from engine to ECU to get it running?
I am working on cutting out the loom, to get a bit of overview. But I have to be careful as I dont want to cut wires I need...:-)
#20
12-12-2013, 02:30 AM