Series I with AJ6 engine
Good Job, Wilfred!
We all Love seeing posts that aren't dealing with some problem or other. Trouble is, When nothing is wrong, we all think we have nothing to report.
NOT SO!!
And, a post like this encourages Newbies here, that a Jag Isn't the POS their friends tell them it is, and they Don't have to run screaming the other way when their SO brings one home.
Maybe more of us should post this sort of thing more often....
(';')
We all Love seeing posts that aren't dealing with some problem or other. Trouble is, When nothing is wrong, we all think we have nothing to report.
NOT SO!!
And, a post like this encourages Newbies here, that a Jag Isn't the POS their friends tell them it is, and they Don't have to run screaming the other way when their SO brings one home.
Maybe more of us should post this sort of thing more often....
(';')
1. So, earlier in this thread I mentioned that I really like the 4.0 AJ6 Engine.
2. Also, I have a VW LT Camper, with a 2,7 liter tractor Diesel engine. We love the camper, but the engine is very slow, and noisy.
Combining point 1 and 2... Put a 4.0 AJ6, including the automatic transmission, in the VW LT!
Get an old, but running xj40. its a 1992 model.



It is rusted, so I don't feel sorry for breaking it:





Cut out all wiring that is not needed for running the engine. I did this while engine was still in the car, so I could test if everything was still working:

That leaves two loom. The engine wiring loom, I will not have to change that. And the loom that powers everything. Basically it's only a couple of 12v feeds, a ignition-on-relay and a starter relay. Below is the loom, I still need to make this much more compact, but it's all I need (and a bit more) to power the engine ECU, transmissen control unit, fuel pump relay etc:

take out the old, diesel engine. It's a Perkins engine btw, from the time that VW didn't have their own diesels yet. As the engine is located between the driver and the passenger seat, it has to come out through the front doors... (or drop the front subframe, but that is much more work)




Next step is to take out the aj6 engine from the donor vehicle, which will hopefully happen this year :-)
2. Also, I have a VW LT Camper, with a 2,7 liter tractor Diesel engine. We love the camper, but the engine is very slow, and noisy.
Combining point 1 and 2... Put a 4.0 AJ6, including the automatic transmission, in the VW LT!
Get an old, but running xj40. its a 1992 model.



It is rusted, so I don't feel sorry for breaking it:





Cut out all wiring that is not needed for running the engine. I did this while engine was still in the car, so I could test if everything was still working:

That leaves two loom. The engine wiring loom, I will not have to change that. And the loom that powers everything. Basically it's only a couple of 12v feeds, a ignition-on-relay and a starter relay. Below is the loom, I still need to make this much more compact, but it's all I need (and a bit more) to power the engine ECU, transmissen control unit, fuel pump relay etc:

take out the old, diesel engine. It's a Perkins engine btw, from the time that VW didn't have their own diesels yet. As the engine is located between the driver and the passenger seat, it has to come out through the front doors... (or drop the front subframe, but that is much more work)




Next step is to take out the aj6 engine from the donor vehicle, which will hopefully happen this year :-)
yeah, you are right. It's an additional oil cooler. I just didn't take a good look at it.
My 1994 4.0 aj6 didn't have this extra oil cooler, seems to be overkill. Even many XJR's don't have it.
My 1994 4.0 aj6 didn't have this extra oil cooler, seems to be overkill. Even many XJR's don't have it.
Hi all, question for you. I took the engine and gearbox apart. for me this was the first time I seperated an engine and an automatic gearbox. Here in the Netherlands, most (older) cars are all manual, so I didn't have any experience on this
I simply took out the bellhousing bolts, and pulled the gearbox. The engine and gearbox were already out of the car, so I had very good access, and could control the gearbox very well as it was hanging in a lift.
But as you already may suspect, the torque converter was still on the engine. When I saw the engine and gearbox seperated, I thought: hmm, this doesn't look right. And after looking it up, it turns out I could have better unbolted the torque converter from the flexplate and keep the convertor on the gearbox.
Anyway, I am going to install the torque converter back to on the gearbox tonight, and I have read already I have to make sure it is fully seated. but do you have any other tips? I am assuming my convertor will have survived this, but is there something particular to check or to look for ?before putting it back?
I simply took out the bellhousing bolts, and pulled the gearbox. The engine and gearbox were already out of the car, so I had very good access, and could control the gearbox very well as it was hanging in a lift.
But as you already may suspect, the torque converter was still on the engine. When I saw the engine and gearbox seperated, I thought: hmm, this doesn't look right. And after looking it up, it turns out I could have better unbolted the torque converter from the flexplate and keep the convertor on the gearbox.
Anyway, I am going to install the torque converter back to on the gearbox tonight, and I have read already I have to make sure it is fully seated. but do you have any other tips? I am assuming my convertor will have survived this, but is there something particular to check or to look for ?before putting it back?
The converter should be put straight on the input shaft of the transmission, making sure it doesn't bind and then offer up the transmission and converter as a unit to the engine. Normially, you'd be checking converter spacing at this point, but since your're putting ti back the way it came it's probably ok. Ideally, you want the converter well seated int eh pump of the transmission, so you don't want a huge amount of play between the flexplate and the converter.
This channel has really good information about automatics, Here is a video about converter spacing:
This channel has really good information about automatics, Here is a video about converter spacing:
Thank you. I carefully inspected all components, and everything looks good. So I placed it back. And I also did some measuring to ensure that the converter was fully seated AND while doing so, I determined that I have around 3mm converter spacing. See pics below:






Oh... and I also did a first testfit.... :-)






Oh... and I also did a first testfit.... :-)
The oil cooler is probably not that important, as the North American XJ6's didn't get them and the engines didn't fail. I'm also presuming that you won't be driving the camper at 200 km/h either!



























