OK, found that OLD Parts Book as promised.

I really must sort this stuff out, haha.

According to that catalogue (Lucas from the day) is that the Rotor for a 22D distributor is a GL254. Its picture is identical to your old rotor.

Additionally, the cap for that distributor is a GL274.

NOT easy to find, but NOT unique to Jaguar, used also in:

Ford Zephyr
Ford Thames Truck
Rovers, many
LandRovers, many.
Bedford
Commer
Triumph
******

 

Got a nice kick off the Coil today, am charged for the week.
Voltage seems irregular in places around the coil/distributor area. Not confident of my measurements as a result. While I previously thought I had spark I now most certainly done, either from the coil or at the plugs. I have two coils and two ballasts to test with, so the problem isn't likely to be the coil itself. Was getting 12.9/13.4 at the ballast and 4.5/5.1 at the coil. However even with extra battery clammed to (+) on either coil I didn't seem to have a spark at the end of the coil HT lead to the distributor.
Two other issues raised as suggestions on this post were a bend rotor shaft and a dragging starter.
One I wonder about is the condenser in the distributor. Wiring has been checked and rechecked.

 

Did you set the point gap? that was discussed earlier and then seemed to disappear as a topic. Until you can confirm you have points opening and closing it not logical to expect a spark.

 

Replaced points, condenser and new rotor arm with Lucas parts from ClassicCarsNZ on Auckland's north shore. While at first no change, I could now clearly see the points opening as the arm rotated. The new arm was a tight fit compared to the Repco generic part. I used the original rotor cap not the new Lucas replacement one I had acquired and my Bosch coil not the older second I got the other week. Finally after some gross adjustments to the carbs screws and shifting the position of the plugs on the rotor cap clockwise by 2 positions each (so while at first 6 had been reside the ground clip from the coil I moved them right so that 4 was positioned beside the clip, retaining the 4,2,6,3,5,1 order of course) and finally got a muffled flappy firing noise. After some more adjusting of the carbs I am able to maintain the running of the engine for a short time. As most of my work has been a bit gross in a hunt for any sign of life I expect the more fine and exacting stuff is needed now. The points being set correctly and the carbs set up again, etc. I see the right carbs is leaking a bit of surplus fuel out the air intake. I suspect the left carb is not operating well, just a suspicion based on the low revs (about 1200 max at any point) before the break down early last month. Well, she's very very clean now if nothing else and all the electrics have been redone and new connectors once again. When she actually runs proper I'll be able to cook and eat off the engine surface.

 

Here's a short but largely unexciting video of the engine firing. It's gotten better reviews that Batman Vs Superman tho.

https://vimeo.com/180268536

 

Excellent, there is life. Now you can just keep nudging it in the right direction.

 

I think I have the monster back where it was a month and half back before this length problem started. the running is a bit soft and puttery at moment but she moves ok.
One of the issues I observed before all this started was the 'foot flat' limit on RPM. Even with the accelerator fully depressed in drive with brake on or in neutral the RPM dial NEVER tops 12,00 and usually idles at 10,00. Even adjusting the carbs doesn't seem to change this situation. Since the fix last weekend I have also noticed that ushering in additional acceleration actually seems flood the engine and cause it to cut out early on in the start up.

 

Is the throttle operation done from the accelerator pedal or via the carbs themselves?

I've had this problem before but usually with twin weber setups on datsun motors, which is all my carb experience, but a poorly setup or worn with age throttle cable or linkage system can sometimes cause poor activation of the carbs butterflys and not achieve 100% open.

Worth checking as part of the whole going over you seem to be doing, usually done with someone operating the pedal and you seeing if the carb linkage operates as intended.

However, your problem does sound like something a bit more serious.

Have you removed the SU bowls yet and cleaned them? needle and seat condition?

 

Whew, my first glance read 10,000 and 12,000 RPM's. That is race car stuff!!!


And, as Stoney posts, the throttle valves on the carbs are opened vbia a cable from the foot pedal. Lots of room for "stuff" along the way. The housing must be secure at each end. If not, the thing will wiggle and transfer no motion or limited at best.


Test; Depress the throttle all the way. A mate or a brick. Look in the carb bores. Ought be opened wide. If not, you have it.


If OK, then as Stoney opines. Trouble in the carbs????


Carl