My jag started stalling at stops and is hard to start again after that. Once I get it started again it runs great untill i stop again. I was able to get it home by holding the rpms at about 1100 at the stops. I went out this morning with no issues untill it got pretty warm or about 20 miles, then it started acting up again. Could the injectors need cleaned, or something with them? I have recently went threw alot of the fuel system, but nothing to the injectors. I guess it's always had a bit of an issue with starting after it's warmed up but only started stalling out yesterday.

 

Is the throttle body clean and the throttle blade gapped to .002" ?

Is the ductwork from the air flow meter to the throttle body is good shape?

What's the engine idling at if you don't intentionally hold it to 1100?

Some Ser III 4.2 cars can barely hold an idle when warm.....with no concrete or obvious fault to be discovered. Sometimes the only 'cure' is to goose up the idle speed a bit and/or adjust the idle mixture.....but that's only after running down the check list.

Yes, partially clogged injectors can deteriorate idle quality enough to cause a stall-out, especially if 'stacked up' with other faults

Cheers
DD

 

Where is the throttle blade at? The outer fabric on the ductwork is not so good but the rubber is fine and I will try tightening the clamps if the heat is making them get loose.
It normally idles at 600-700 in gear and 1100 in park and nuetral.
if I were to concider speed and mixture(not yet), where is mixture setting at?
When I originally go tthis car, it had rusty tank issues, and I've always thought the injectors were issues with my starting. I've gotten use to it sorta, but trying to start it after it stalls is not the same. It takes lots of trys rather than the normal 2 or 3 try's.
I've went thru this fuel system to almost everything but the injectors to find out the pump was defective. Then the tanks werent venting right that I believe you helped me resolve. If this was a Chevy I'd say vacumm hose is bad.
I will check throttle blade if you can help me locate it.

 

save or open the pdf file below by clicking on it,

click on AIR FLOW METRE to see the illustration, then click on the THROTTLE BODY AND SWITCH to see the illustration.

 

Thank you Jose, Ill check it out.

 

having trouble with my 1992 jaguar sovereign wont start unless i use starting fluid and the air flow meter and the tps unplugged if i plug either one up the car will stall and wont start back up unless i repeat that procedure [new tps sensor]

 

Awesome diagrams! I'll get some things figured out with that for sure, but there is no clicking on anything. Is there anything that says what the numbers are called?

 

Now that I didn't think of. Might be worth exploring that idea. could be on it's way out.

 

if you want to be able to click on the numbers next to each part illustration, go to the SNG Barrat USA store catalogue.

SNG Barratt - The Ultimate Jaguar Parts Specialist

 

So it all looked fine. .002. plemums looked good, connections tight. I had another AFM, so I changed it out just for kicks, so I can say I actually did something. I don't have to go anywhere today. I'm happy about that since it's 97 out there and I haven't fixed the A/C yet. I'll drive around tomorrow for work and if it keeps acting up I guess I'll crank up the idle and let you know in case there are some more suggestions.
The tps sensor I would need to look up the part number for, I'm assuming that bng will have that? Or does someone here know it?

 

You don't have a throttle position sensor....at least not in the conventional sense.....so don't bother looking

There *IS* a on/off throttle position switch, however. I can't remember if it functions at idle or at full throttle. I'll have to look it up.

Cheers
DD

 

could be the AFM flap sticking, and of course, the only solution is to substitute it to see if the problem disappears, which you did. Jaguar never provided repair instructions for the AFM afaik.

 

I don't know if you remember me talking about that before, but the one i just took of was the one that was "sticking" before I did a temp fix. what it truly needed was a new bearing but the one I just put on isn't sticking. hopefully I will notice something.

 

I would really appreciate you looking that up when you get a chance Doug.

 

I just gave myself a crash course in how the fuel system in an '85 VDP works. The throttle switch is only triggered at near full throttle.

-mB

 

Damn. I could use that crash coarse if your willing to share.

 

probably to much to write down, but since your in the metro area maybe we can get together for a beer or 6 and share.

 

Sounds like a great idea!

In the meantime, let me say that my Jag's problem turned out to be clogged fuel injectors. Of course I had a different problem than you have (mine was running lean and backfiring). If you decide to get the injectors cleaned I can heartily recommend this place in Wheat Ridge:

Fuel Injector Specialists - Home - Wheat Ridge, CO
303 456 0789

Chuck did my injectors for $150 total. I dropped them off on Monday and picked them up on Friday. Tell him I sent you.

-mB

 

I will definatly go to him when I do the injectors. Thank you so much.

 

When I started on my jag that had rusty tank issues and a dead fuel pump, it had gotten to the injectors and they were full of rust particles, I'd say they will definitely need cleaning, and i'll be surprised if it doesn't help your problem at all.