Typo in Subject: Should be EZ-EFI 2.0... no coffee ye this AM!


Removed the drivers side gas tank (they are for sale) and started the install of the Pollak six port changeover valve.
I have used this valve in the past on the '72 LT1/700R and will use pre filters and a EFI post pump filter. I kept the other
tank in the car so it would be drivable while finishing up this conversion.

I am trying to decide on using hard lines or new style soft ones from the injection company.. I used aluminum lines on
the other car and they worked out fine. I will run new lines for both the return and feed lines this time so I can choose their routing course.

Since I am using S3 tanks, I will have to change the fuel caps as well.. David Boger supplied two very nice ones with keys (old ones go with the tanks).

Since the Series 1 tanks were pretty new, the fuel cap came off easily and I dropped the one tank out as a test.
No dirty fuel or rust at all came out when draining the tank!

I have S3 tanks from a S3 Sovereign but they are too rusty to use but the fuel senders are fine and I will use the
fuel outlets/inlets and sender wire mounting parts that are longer wires due to their rear location.

New Spectra tanks are on the way and I will be ready when they arrive with sender rings, gaskets and new O rings for
the fuel necks. I will change out the fuel vapor lines while waiting.

I hope to recoup part of this cost by selling the Series 1 gas tanks, caps, fuel changeover valve (aftermarket) and heavily modified Q Jet carb
that runs 15.2 AFR at cruise and Innovate wideband AFR gauge and the old S1 ski slope that had the two gauges installed (other was a B&M trans temp
gauge this is also available - my trans never overheats!). The AFR gauge is no longer needed as the FI system comes with a tablet that
shows all the engine information in real time.

Will post a link for photos on this project as it matures... nothing to see yet but a hole where the old tank lived.

 

During my wait for the tank delivery, I removed and cleaned and tested the old S3 sender.. it is now ready to reuse.. plus the old rusty S3 is nearby for the line and vent fittings.

I removed the fittings for the fuel feed, vent and return line from the old S3 tanks and did a trial fit of the new tank. Ran new wires to the S1 fuel sender connections long enough to reach the rear of the S3 tank.

Could not get it up into the old S1 hole easily... found that new S3 hard vent hard line mounted on the right top side was hitting the side of the trunk wall and keeping it from going in easily - plus when actually pulled up in place with the threaded rod and nut... the top hole for the fuel filler cap would not align properly in the fender hole.

Removed the tank to remove the vent fitting.. tank fit properly and easily. Made a template of the vent hole location in relation to the two other bolt
mounting holes, 7 inches away I found out that there was already a hole cut for the vent pipe but it was covered with silver tape. It is exactly in the correct spot for a newly shaped line or just a barbed fitting for a hose.. a curved line that can face forward would be best choice.

Had to do the same procedure of drilling a pilot hole and then enlarging the new hole for the return line... now my concern is where/how to route the line so it does hit or be near the exhaust pipe/tips in the resonator tunnel? After figuring this out I will drill a hole in the trunk area to allow the pipe to enter and a have a hose that will connect to the new six (6) port changeover valve.

Have no idea what Jaguar did for this return pipe route in later cars???

Found out that not only do you need S3 filler caps but the corresponding base... when I mated the S3 cap with the S1 base it would not latch.. I changed the latches and then that worked properly. But when I test screwed the cap into place the S3 cap hit the rear of the tapered fender hole by almost 3/16 inch.

I ordered bases for the caps from David at Everyday XJ, he provided pictures of the two cap types next to each other ... there is quite a difference. The S3 filler neck is not as tall - hence the thicker cap needed to fit... plus the configuration of the bases are at different slants for the cap with the S3 mounted farther forward. When the new bases arrive next week I am sure that fitment problem will be resolved.



To recap the use of S3 tanks in a Series 1:

1. Need S3 filler caps and bases (plus new gaskets for under the bases).
2. Hole will need to be located and uncovered for the vent line or a barbed fitting to protrude into the trunk for the vent line.
3. Hole will need to be located and drilled for the return line
4. Fuel sender wires will need to be lengthened to connect to S1 wires
5. New Spectra tanks come with a O ring for the neck and a gasket and new ring for the fuel sender. They DO NOT COME WITH FUEL LINE OR VENT LINE FITTINGS.. they are compression type and could be made up from a good hardware store if you do not have any old S3 tanks.

Ran out of day light to finish up completely and fill partially with gas and test the new tank with the old changeover valve (with the return line plugged for now).
Will hopefully be able to post photos soon.

 

There is a big difference in the fuel cap bases on a S3 and S1. With the S3 base and S3 caps they fit fine in my Series 1 with the new S3 gas tanks. The fuel cap no longer hits the rear of the fender hole.

I replaced the section of hard gas feed line from the first connection after the bulkhead joint by cutting the metal line and flaring 37 degrees for a AN
nut.. then joined the special fuel injection soft line for my FAST EZ-EFI 2.0 fuel injection conversion. That line was run up to the existing mechanical fuel pump with enough extra line left to reach the fender well where the fuel regulator will be installed. That line will end up being the fuel return line from the FAST throttle body.

I am now ready to add the AN bulkhead fittings with soft line used inside the trunk area and hard aluminum line used for the portion of the feed
line that will run along the back side of the trunk and then over the IRS near the current feed line. I did not want the soft lines run over the IRS for my safety sake. I will terminate the hard line part way up the side of the car ahead of the other joint. Finding room to run two soft 3/8" lines on a Jaguar with a real dual exhaust is lots of fun. The rest of the feed line run will be the same special FI fuel line up to the planned regulator spot. Proper fuel line rubber padded clamps were used about 10 inches to hold the line firmly in place.

This project involves keeping the car with the carb so it can be driven to the upholstery shop for the new carpet and headliner. Then I will do
the actual carb removal when the car is back home again. Done in Stages for my convenience.

 

I was able to run hard line from the new bulkhead fitting to the other
side of the rear of the trunk. But I could not fit hard line in the same path
as the original feed line.


I connected the soft line up to the new hard line piece after routing it
the same path as the original hard feed line. Then I used the same sheet
metal screws for the new clamps - they are doubled up side by side to
each other up to the engine compartment.


I mounted the new changeover valve using Jack Nuts and drilled out the
threads in the valve to be able to insert 1/4 X 20 bolts from the top since access from the bottom is not possible due to the rear valance being sealed up.


I will pick up (2) Bosch #0332204150 relays in the AM for use in the wiring of the changeover valve and they will be mounted just to the left of the valve.