XJ6 & XJ12 Series I, II & III 1968-1992

It starts when I stop cranking

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Old Jul 8, 2025 | 11:41 AM
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Default It starts when I stop cranking

'87 XJ6, two things going on here. After sitting for a day or two it is hard to start, i.e. long crank time, is there a valve or relay that holds fuel pressure in the rail after turning off? After holding the key in start position for 3-5 seconds the engine will only start running after I release the key to the run position , it doesn't actually run when the key is in the start position.
 
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Old Jul 8, 2025 | 11:50 AM
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Have you tried turning the key to the on position and leaving it there long enough to pressurize the fuel rail and then engaging start? My own “habit” to facilitate that is to turn the key to on, then fasten my seat belt, and then start the car.

 
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Old Jul 8, 2025 | 02:10 PM
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Thanks will give that a try. Crazy times in Alb/Sask.
 
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Old Jul 8, 2025 | 04:15 PM
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I have seen this fault when the ignition switch contacts fail in the CRANK position.

The power to the coil is disabled in the CRANK position and power returns in the ON position.

You can verify with a 'test light'.
 
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Old Jul 8, 2025 | 05:10 PM
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Originally Posted by motorcarman
I have seen this fault when the ignition switch contacts fail in the CRANK position.

The power to the coil is disabled in the CRANK position and power returns in the ON position.

You can verify with a 'test light'.

Aha! That makes perfect sense. When I release the key in the start position to run position, the engine stumbles a bit and then (or maybe not) starts running. I'll have a looky-loo at the ignition switch. THANK YOU.
 
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Old Jul 8, 2025 | 05:55 PM
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Originally Posted by jbellK75
Aha! That makes perfect sense. When I release the key in the start position to run position, the engine stumbles a bit and then (or maybe not) starts running. I'll have a looky-loo at the ignition switch. THANK YOU.
Run a temporary jumper wire from the battery "+" post to the coil "+" post and try starting. If the engine starts normally then you can pretty much count on a faulty ignition switch.

Cheers
DD
 
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Old Jul 8, 2025 | 11:52 PM
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Here ya go.

Have fun.
 
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Old Jul 9, 2025 | 10:44 AM
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Originally Posted by Doug
Run a temporary jumper wire from the battery "+" post to the coil "+" post and try starting. If the engine starts normally then you can pretty much count on a faulty ignition switch.

Cheers
DD
Thank you Doug, will give that a quick try this morning......Jack.

Originally Posted by Grant Francis
Here ya go.

Have fun.
Thank you Grant. What type of "ignition grease" do you use in the switch, dielectric?
 
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Old Jul 9, 2025 | 11:41 AM
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Originally Posted by Ken Cantor
Have you tried turning the key to the on position and leaving it there long enough to pressurize the fuel rail and then engaging start? My own “habit” to facilitate that is to turn the key to on, then fasten my seat belt, and then start the car.
Originally Posted by motorcarman
I have seen this fault when the ignition switch contacts fail in the CRANK position.

The power to the coil is disabled in the CRANK position and power returns in the ON position.

You can verify with a 'test light'.
Originally Posted by Doug
Run a temporary jumper wire from the battery "+" post to the coil "+" post and try starting. If the engine starts normally then you can pretty much count on a faulty ignition switch.

Cheers
DD
'm

Originally Posted by Grant Francis
Here ya go.

Have fun.
To all that have helped me here. I tried Ken's suggestion of leaving key in run position for 5-10 seconds before starting and connected a test light between coil and ground. The car started right up after "priming" the fuel rail, did this a few times and it worked every time. The test light was lit in the run position and remained so in the start position so I'm guessing the ignition switch is good (for now). Thank you for the replies and support. I look forward to learning enough about these comfortable beasts to help and assist others instead of always being the one to ask for help. Cheers mates...........Jack.
 
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