The wife closed the trunk on her 1986 XJ6 III, and now it won't open.
When I press the button on the trunk lid, it "pops" and releases - as normal. It only moves 1/4" or so, but only the right side seems to be releasing. I press down on the left corner of the lid, there's no play there. Press down on the right corner about 1/4" or 1/8" and it latches again.
Here's my question: could the left hinge have come out of adjustment and now it's sticking?
I'm hoping someone has seen this happen before and can give me a non-destructive fix.

 

Each hinge has a spring on it to raise the lid. Once its released, can you pull it up by hand ?

 

do you mean the TRUNK LID (Boot)?

or do you mean the Bonnet (hood) ?

in the 1986 XJ-6 there is only one catch in the trunk/boot, and it is located in the center below the license plate.

but in the HOOD, there are two catches, left and right, near the cowl. (the area in front of the windshield).

However, there are no buttons to press for the HOOD, only a pull cable handle, so assuming you are talking about the TRUNK LID, then there is a vertical linkage that can be pulled upwards and non-destructively but you need to first remove the license plate and have needlenose pliers in advance for the procedure.

 

When released, I try and pull up on the trunk lid (boot - not hood or "bonnet") and it hits solid, with about 1/4" play seemingly only on the right side. The left side doesn't feel like it moves as much. The "boot" looks slightly cocked - left side down; but only slightly. I understand there's only one catch and striker, but I'm thinking I feel it release. That's why I'm thinking hinges. Maybe? Ideas?
Oh yes; I've had the plate off and tried the needlenose trick. It did nothing.

 

ok got it now.

it would not really matter if a hinge was causing the lid to be cocked, something is not letting the latch release from the catch.

remove the license plate by removing as many screws as needed, then you will see a vertical link or linkage behind the two right side upper and lower holes.

assuming the lock is unlocked, insert the needlenose pliers through one of the holes to grab the linkage and pull it up as you press the button under the chromed plynth while pushing the lid up too.

 

OK thanks for your help. I've tried the needlenose/linkage trick, to no avail. Maybe the latch itself is broken? How would I get to it or decide that it is?

 

there is no way to break the "U" shaped catch, the problem is a stuck latch, the "J" hook part of the locking mechanism. See picture of assembly below.

there are two systems, the Kiekert and the Lucas solenoid systems, the only difference is the electrical solenoid, the mechanical latch system is the same in all Series 3.

1) have you tried pushing the linkage DOWN ?

2) with engine running, lock and unlock the driver's door master lock a number of times.
The master door lock will not unlock the trunk lock, but it will lock it, so the idea is for someone to stand close to the trunk area while another moves the driver's door lock, listening for the solenoid to actuate. If the solenoid is working, the linkage is the problem.

3) there is no other access to the trunk.

 

A-ha! System knowledge. Just what I'm looking for.
When I engage the front driver's door lock from the inside, there's no "snap" at the over center point. After that point the door lock lever feels springy for 1/2" or so. Also there's no solenoid sound or feel from the boot lid.
Maybe my problem stems from a faulty door lock in the driver's side? Is there definitely a solenoid tied in to the boot latch?
As another bit of data, the boot manual key lock only turns 1/8 turn. The car is very new to us and I don't recall if we've locked the boot from the key, yet.

 

This technique opened a cocked bonnet lid for me. It bound one latch, and even with the release handle full on,. no pop open!!!


Use a small pry bar. Padded with a cloth. Slip it in on the low side. Now pry while trying to operate the latch. If no go, same on the other side. And, if still no, get a helper, and pry both sides while trying to operate the latch.


Another: Exercise the latch over and over and over. Making sure the key is in unlock.


More: My IHC Scout II had a sticky front hinged bonett with a single latch. The handle on the dash was puny. At times it stuck full closed. But, with a pal or spouse pulling on the puny handle, I popped the ls just over the center latch with side of my fist. Worked every time!!!


Carl

 

yes, there is a solenoid for the boot lid,

here's how it works: You can lock the boot from the driver's door (master lock/unlock), but you cannot unlock it from the driver's door.

the only way to unlock the boot lid lock is with the key.

it looks as if you have not unlocked it with the key, the lock movement is more than 1/8" inch to unlock it. Spray WD40 or other penetrant lubricant onto the key, then insert it in the lock, also try to spray lubricant into the key slot. The lock could be stuck. Try a little force to turn the lock but not enough to break the key. easy does it.

you can hear a "thump" type of sound from behind the license plate when the solenoid is actuated, but only when locking the lock from the driver's door. Again, the driver's door master will not unlock the boot lid lock, only the 4 doors.

 

Insert or Remove key:


To Lock, turn to the RIGHT, but the key doesn't move very far:
The locking action is quite subtle compared to other cars but there IS a Very positive STOP.


The key CANNOT be removed from the lock unless it's in the full vertical position!


To UNLOCK the trunk/boot the key must turn about twice as far LEFT as it took to the right to lock it, again to a Very abrupt stop:
There is more positive 'feel' to the mechanism when Unlocking but it's still quite subtle compared, for example, to my Windstar van.


The key MUST be centered again to remove it from the lock:


Note that there is not Nearly as much key movement as there is in Mercan cars even of this vintage. That's because the locking mechanism is *Very* simple compared to other functions on the car, many of which seem needlessly complex.
(';')

 

XLNT tutorial. Why does not the owner's manual have something along that line?


The adjustment of the U catch bolted to the body is critical in too loose, boot flies open vs too tight, hard to open.


I removed the factory fasteners and replaced them with hex headed bolts.


Carl

 

now we all know why the famous sticker says: "DO NOT SLAM".

when you slam the boot lid, it gets everything out of whack.

 

Well, heck. The boot locks and unlocks just fine. I've tried the needle nose pliers trick both up and down. Is the only option left to cut a hole under the license plate and look for a broken/stuck latch? I do amazing sheetmetal work and can re-skin the area with aluminum.
Thanks for ALL your ideas.

 

here's one more possibility: two people needed.

push down on both sides of the trunk lid, (to the left and right of the chromed "splinth"), while someone else turns the key in the lock.

listen carefully to hear for any clicks.

if that doesn't work, I suppose the last resort will be to cut a hole behind the license plate.

 

Ill let in on a little secret to the xj series cars here, but its probably not something us owners want the general public in on so maybe it should be deleted after you have read it.....

These cars generally have 4 rectangular slots in the boot lid that were for some kind of number plate mounting system or trim I would imagine. Facing the boot if you insert a long skinny flat blade in the bottom right hole and angle it over towards the center of the boot latch area with a slight downward angle and flick it up you will generally be able to catch the base of the lock and flick the boot open. Of course its made easier if you press down on the lid to relieve the preload on the latch. If you car does not have the slots im sure one of us can measure out car and instruct you on the optimal location for a 1/2 inch hole.

The latch isnt too hard to find by feel with the screwdriver and the first time you do it may take a bit of patience but my series 1 didn't have a lock on the outside and i had become so accustomed to opening it with a screwdriver before i reinstated the lock that it probably took all of 2 seconds to get open. In reality its probably more secure without the series 1 / 2 lock on to be honest.

This trick will bypass a dodgy key lock, rod, leaver etc but probably not a totally jammed / stuffed lock its self

See how you go,

Jay

 

OK.. Thanks to ALL of y'all for helping me. I just got into the boot.
It seems my wife had closed the boot with the car's tarp in the lock. SO the lock mechanism was jammed with tarp. I wrapped a cloth around a large prybar and gently popped it open!

 

Pry bars. Secondary only to BFH's for some critters!!!


I did something like that on the driver door of my car at a store. Seat belt wedged in door latch!!


Ended well.


Glad yours did as well.


Carl

 

excellent! make sure you spray some lubricant on all the mechanisms.

 

How about a spousal debris protection device???


Carl