Well I got it pulled out so I will try to write down what I can as far as the process went. I have an automatic Borg Warner T-66 and from what I've read T-65 is the same.
Disconnect battery, you have to take starter off and you don't want it arcing.
Disconnect kickdown cable. As you look at the linkages at the rear passenger side of the motor under the fuel rail there are two cable going to the linkage. The lower one is the kickdown cable. Pop off the retainer clip and slid the pin out. Be patient with the clip, it's in a bad place and very easy to drop and spend an hour trying to find it. Remove the two bolts on the bracket. Need a 7/16 socket with a swivel head for this.
Jack the car up and put on blocks/stands as high as your jack will go. you need alot of clearance to get the tranny out. Loosen the compession fitting(fill tube) at the bottom of the trans pan and drain the fluid. I recommend taking the whole fill tube off so it doesn't get damaged but not nessasary.
Take bolts out of the transmission to the motor block. There are a bunch of them and they are 9/16, 15mm, and 14 mm. Two of which hold the starter on, it won't fall but you can prop it up out of the way on it's own. on the sides ther are two brackets(not sure of there use) that you need to remove from the trans also. They are triangular and some type of gusset but they get in your way if you don't remove them.
Take the shifter linkage bolt off and wiggle the linkage off, I think it was a 12mm. then take the screw out that is going thru the black plastic housing of the reverse and nuetral safety switch. wiggle it off as well and if you reach around the other side of the tranny youll feel the wiring harness and you can disconnect the plug for the switch and get it out of your way or leave it there and not worry about pulling on it when you drop the trans. While you are there take the cooler lines loose with a 9/16 wrench.
Heat shields, there are three that need removed. a small one that is in front and half of it goes up the firewall, it's sorta connected to a long one that runs along the frame about 2 feet long. the third is around the driveline, it's a bit tricky getting it around the driveline but it is possible. all of these are phillips head screws. there is also an inspection plate on the front bottom of the trans that is held by 11mm bolts.
On passenger side of trans there is a rubber hose with hoseclamps, loosen one of them and slide the hose off. Be CAREFUL, this is connected to a now very brittle piece of plastic that can break very easy.
Next is the trans mount and driveline bolts. Here you need a second jack under the trans to hold it up. There is a a thin metal plate that has a few 13mm bolts on the bottom and two hard to see bolts up in the driveline tunnel. you have to go around the driveline from opposite side to remove(twice). Now thats thats out of the way you go to the actual mount. big thing. I remone the 19mm nut in the middle first and then the two 15mm bolts that holt the triangle looking bracket to the tranny. These are a bit%&!, you can only turn them a very tiny bit flip the wrench,over and over and over and over. Be patient they do come off eventually. Now you can take the rest of the trans mount off of the body and out of your way with a 9/16 I think. It will come off in a bunch of pieces so pay attention to the order they all come off so you can reassemble later. With all that out of your way, you have easy access to the driveline bolts. Two 9/16 wrenches get them off easy enough. Compress the driveline however much it will(about 1/2 an inch) and put it on top of the output shaft so it will be out of your way. You can prop it up with a board somehow if you want also, just be sure it's not in your way.
Now your ready to drop the tranny. If you slide it back an inch or so you can get to the torque converter bolts that go thru the flywheel. I left mine on for now, but if you do take these off, the tranny drops out way easier. Let jack down a little bit, push the cooler lines up and over a chunk of the tranny so you don't pull them and distort them when you drop tranny next. Repeat lowering jack and sliding trans back toward rear of car untill it's on the ground.
Hopefully you have the car up high enough to get it slid out, and there you go. Now you have a greasy mess to clean up and start the next phase of your project.
I hope This helps someone with what to expect and I hope I described it well enough. This whole process took me just under two hours and is actually quite easy.
I will post rebuilding in a couple days.

 

Maybe i missed it, but what are you using to keep motor off of the rack???
There is a special piece of equipment but one can be made, or at least a jack and piece of wood under oil.pan

 

That's a good point. I built a thing to hold the motor up last time I changed the trans and didn't need it. The motor leans back a little bit. But not much. The motor mounts hold it pretty close to balanced. As i was lowering it with the trans on, the fan touched the shroud, but did not put to much pressure on it. and not that the trans is off, it is almost in it's original position.
Oh and I installed new motor mounts a while back so I know they are good and won't break. If someone has old ones then I would suggest something to help hold it up, but someling like baling wire from the board over the cross bars to the motor would be enough. The thing I made was just a waste of time as It wasn't actually needed.

 

Shame there's no piccies............but a good read.

 

sorry for no pics. this post was sorta an afterthought. I thought it might be a good post for the tech section though.

 

How's the P38 going?

 

What P-38? Is there a similarity? The front band that I ordered was listed for a P-38 also. are they the same?

 

You have a MY99 RR in your signature.

 

oh, I see. It's great although the check engine light is on, throwing 4004(if I remember right) code. any ideas?

 

Haven't heard that code....normally a p code, however if it's orange and not red could be simple as fuel cap not on properly to dirty MAF. Normally orange colour is not very serious.....(if that makes sense)

 

Yes that does make sense. I was going to try and get a new cap and see if that clears it up. It is orange so I'm not to worried right now. But thank you for that info, I didn't know that LR had the orange/red difference.

 

thanks for that ,so are you saying the torque converter can stay fixed to the drive plate ?,this was my concern about removing the BW66 ,WHAT would you say was the most dificult part of the removal and have you replaced iy yet ?
regards kwak

 

I suppose you could leave torque converter attached, you would have to pull trans a lot further back to clear it all, and then you would have to pull torque converter anyways to install back into trans before the install!
hardest part of job is the aching arms back and neck!!! its all just nuts and bolts!!!
The higher you can get the car in the air the better!!
Air tools make the job oh so much easier!!

 

I think the most difficult part, was that it is so low to the ground. Oh yeah and there's that tranny mount thing, that was a knuckle buster. I rebuilt the transmission, and have not had a single problem since.

 

Thanks for that Darren,thats a BIG HELP i feel a bit more confident now and i will have a go soon ,
XJ6 4.2 1983
REGARDS TONY

 

Yes you should count on removing the torque converter.