V12 head jacking/removal tool hire in the UK
#1
V12 head jacking/removal tool hire in the UK
Hi,
Does anyone know if I can hire a V12 head jacking/removal tool in the UK? I have stripped my engine down to the heads and need the jacking removal tool. I know I can purchase them, but it difficult to justify the expense for a one off requirement.
Any guidance would be appreciated.
Thanks
Andy
Does anyone know if I can hire a V12 head jacking/removal tool in the UK? I have stripped my engine down to the heads and need the jacking removal tool. I know I can purchase them, but it difficult to justify the expense for a one off requirement.
Any guidance would be appreciated.
Thanks
Andy
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Hi,
I based it on existing designs.
I purchased a piece of 1/2”x5”x36” of mild steel bar and 20 off M10 x 125mm screws (you only use 14 off, the others are spare) from eBay.
Initially I removed the Tappet block from the engine and used/measured this to define the hole locations to bolt the plate to the head assembly. Once these were drilled and de-burred, I replaced the Tappet block back onto the head and trial fitted plate to ensure a good fit. When happy, you can remove the plate again and start to mark out the positions of the M10 tapped holes for the jacking screws. These screws align over the tops of the main head studs. Studying the head layout, you will spot that the head studs are evenly positioned laterally across the head at a 3” pitch, an equal distance laterally from the Tappet block holes. Looking at the fore/aft head stud locations they are positioned either 1/8” forward, aft or directly on the centrelines of the Tappet block holes. By carefully studying the head you will see what I mean.
Finally drill and tap the 14 off M10 holes, clean up the plate of swarf and de-burr.
Now you’re ready to install and jack your heads!!
I based it on existing designs.
I purchased a piece of 1/2”x5”x36” of mild steel bar and 20 off M10 x 125mm screws (you only use 14 off, the others are spare) from eBay.
Initially I removed the Tappet block from the engine and used/measured this to define the hole locations to bolt the plate to the head assembly. Once these were drilled and de-burred, I replaced the Tappet block back onto the head and trial fitted plate to ensure a good fit. When happy, you can remove the plate again and start to mark out the positions of the M10 tapped holes for the jacking screws. These screws align over the tops of the main head studs. Studying the head layout, you will spot that the head studs are evenly positioned laterally across the head at a 3” pitch, an equal distance laterally from the Tappet block holes. Looking at the fore/aft head stud locations they are positioned either 1/8” forward, aft or directly on the centrelines of the Tappet block holes. By carefully studying the head you will see what I mean.
Finally drill and tap the 14 off M10 holes, clean up the plate of swarf and de-burr.
Now you’re ready to install and jack your heads!!
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