water on the top of hte engine
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#4
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If the plug is leaking you simply punch out the old one and tap in a new one. A bit of technique is involved. Cross that bridge if we get there. 'Tis no big deal
so basically is it coolant fluid ?
With the plug clean and shiny you might actually see a tiny perforation. But, if nothing else, if it fills up again and the liquid is the the same color as your coolant (green, most likely) then you'll know what it is
Cheers
DD
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xjfourty (02-18-2018)
#6
I went to the mechanic.
He told me that he rarely saw leaking from those seals.
To replace it he will charge me 3 hours of labor... that is $400 to have the job done.
Otherwise he told me to try with a stop leak fluid to put in the coolant tank. He told me to remove 2 cups of fluid from the expansion tank and pour all the content of the bottle in the expansion tank.
Drive the car for 1 hour, and he told that the leaking would probably stop.
Should I do it ? What are the collateral effects ? May I clog the radiator in this way ?
Any hints are welcomed.
He gave me this product to try:
He told me that he rarely saw leaking from those seals.
To replace it he will charge me 3 hours of labor... that is $400 to have the job done.
Otherwise he told me to try with a stop leak fluid to put in the coolant tank. He told me to remove 2 cups of fluid from the expansion tank and pour all the content of the bottle in the expansion tank.
Drive the car for 1 hour, and he told that the leaking would probably stop.
Should I do it ? What are the collateral effects ? May I clog the radiator in this way ?
Any hints are welcomed.
He gave me this product to try:
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#15
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No. It can be broken when hardened. And, if you or your "mechanic" knocks out the seal to reseat a new one, force will be used.
I've seen the detritus of Barr's in a radiator. Not pretty. But, that was decades ago. So, I withheld my comments on the thought that perhaps the formula had changed.
Carl
I've seen the detritus of Barr's in a radiator. Not pretty. But, that was decades ago. So, I withheld my comments on the thought that perhaps the formula had changed.
Carl
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xjfourty (02-22-2018)
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#17
so I cleaned up as much as I could and then I put pretty amount of JB Weld to cover the edge and the top of the surface of the core plug.
Hope it will work. I won't touch the car for 2 days. on Monday I'll try to run for 100mi
and see the effects.
Has anyone tried to place a core plug ? $400 seems overpriced to it as well as 3 hours labor.
Hope it will work. I won't touch the car for 2 days. on Monday I'll try to run for 100mi
and see the effects.
Has anyone tried to place a core plug ? $400 seems overpriced to it as well as 3 hours labor.
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A couple of thoughts.
Your mechanic does not want the job. So, a high quote and an "easy" answer.
At times those bad core plugs come out nicely and the new seats right in. At times, a big fight.
In this case access is limited by the air rail. removing it can be dicey. It may break!
But, a slide hammer should make short work of the extraction of that little one.
The JB is the way to go!!!
Carl
Your mechanic does not want the job. So, a high quote and an "easy" answer.
At times those bad core plugs come out nicely and the new seats right in. At times, a big fight.
In this case access is limited by the air rail. removing it can be dicey. It may break!
But, a slide hammer should make short work of the extraction of that little one.
The JB is the way to go!!!
Carl
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level 1 (03-01-2018)