Wanted to send out a Huge "Thank You" to all the members who provided ideas and help with regards to my wipers not working. I learned several usefill tips, and was able to get my wipers back in operation. During this process, I learned the following thanks to the advice of others. The location of the # 6 fuse (35 amp) under driver side panel is the main fuse to the wiper motor. The wiper relay (blue) located under the glove box. The wiper motor mounted on the passenger side fender next to the battery. The ground wire mounted on righr fender near the firewall. Also how to remove "Wiper Motor".
After blowing a couple Of 35 amp fuses, unable to get a voltage reading, removing the wiper switch, to check for loose wires, replaceing a wiper relay (which) turned out to be good, and checking the motor for adequate grease, I performed the following.
I decided to disconnect the pivot arm, from the wiper motor and try to run the wiper motor w/o any resistance. To my surprise, and my wife's assistance I was able to observe the wiper motor move in all 3 speeds, (slow, fast, and intermittant). I applied rain-x coating to the windows (another members suggestion), manually moved the wipers back and forth to observe that the cable arm move smoothly and no binding., hooked the pivot arm back to the wiper motor, and now have operational wipers... The reason for so much detail was for any new members who may run into similiar problems. Enjoy and thanks again to those members who Passed Along Their Great Knowledge

 

So what was causing the problema?

 

Yeah, Jimjam, complete the thread for the further benefit of the archives.


My guesses:


1.excess drag of the blades on the glass.
2.Stuck pivot or arm points. Freed on relief of extra drag of the blades. Once freed by exercise, the motor was able to function.


I agree on the Rain X. Oddly, these wipers a tad "wimpy" and it helps.
Odd, that the cars were conceived in Britain, known for it's wet climate...


Old stiff rubber in the blades. Renew or wipe with a softener...
I've heard of, but not tried, olive oil!!!


Carl

 

Jose,
Not really sure, of the initial problem. When I discovered the blown fuse, and replaced it with another fuse, it blew immediately. Rather than continuing to replace with a 3rd fuse, I decided to see if I could get the motor to run w/o resistance. Once I saw the motor operate with the pivot arm disconnected, I decided to eliminate any chance of excess drag (ie... rainx) and manually move the arms ro check for any excess drag. I even brushed the area around the ground wire to ensure I had a good ground...If I have any additional issues with the wiper, at least I have some tools to help me troubleshoot the problem. Thanks for your help!

 

In other words, the problem was excessive friction somewhere in the system...the oft-promoted Rainex is a good idea, but are you aware that a better solution, which I have used for years, is simply to wax the windshield and buff with a microfibre cloth?! I use Mother's carnauba cleaner wax because the very fine abrasive cleans the glass while the wax makes both water and bugs slide right off. In fact for highway use, a freshly waxed windscreen usually obviates the need for wipers at all because the rain beads and runs off.

I would not use a wax with silicone in it, but I can tell you that my procedure has absolutely no negative effect on wiper efficiency - in other words, it does not interfere with either the operation or effectiveness of the wipers, and it virtually eliminates drag.

 

Gregory,
I was not aware of this method. I will include this waxing tip to my windshield, on my next visit to the auto store
Thank You.
JimJam

 

Some may warn you against waxing because it will cause smearing. I have never experienced this outcome nor any other negative effect - but I emphasize that I use only a good carnauba wax with mild abrasive (a "cleaner wax").

 

You have provided me with good information in your previous post. I trust your good judgement, and plan on using mother's carnauba.
Thanks

 

you can also use detailing clay before the wax to get it nice and smooth.

 

Derek B,
Thanks for the tip, always looking for helpful information
JimJam

 

Whew, way past my pay grade. Clean glass + Rain X does well for me.


Suppose Rain X is a cleaner/wax???


No rain in sight around here !!! Snow 200 miles East in the Sierra Madre. A percussor!!!


Carl

 

Great Advice ! I have a 87 XJ8 now fixed !

 

An added bit. A good start is a really clean glass.


Way back when, a friend operated a collision shop. It was in a small town, so glass replacement was a part of the business. And in the
desert. So sand storm damage to paint and glass repairs a good part of their business.


No better way to return a customer's car than one with gleaming
clean glass. He used Bona Ami on all, event the new, and steel wool
with the cleanser on the older glass.


Bug splatter common...


Before I take the Jaguar out again, a w/s clean is a must. My last effort left a streaky one. I am a stickler of clean glass. Spectacles included!!!


I like Dr. Gregory's idea. I'm going to do it. I've a vague recollection, that I did just that in past years...


Ugh, that memory thing.


Carl

 

Great, glad to have provided some information that helped