Just a heads-up folks. Doug has very kindly taken the time to produce a 'Buyer's Guide' for people interested in these cars.

It can be downloaded from the FAQ or from here; Buyer's Guide Jaguar series 1, 2, 3.

To quote from the guide,

' The purpose of this guide is to briefly outline some important purchase considerations, to answer the most common questions relative to used Jaguars, and to illustrate where a used Jaguar is and is not different from an ordinary used car. It is not intended as an in-depth history of Jaguars nor as a general "How to buy a used car" checklist.'

I am sure that any prospective purchaser of one of these cars (or even an existing owner) will find it a useful source of information about these great cars.

A big thanks to Doug

 

I'd like to add a huge thank you to Doug for taking the time to add his years of experience and do this write up for the site.
I'm sure it will be a big help to many members both now and in the future.
Thanks Translator for collaborating with Doug and making this FAQ

 

I got this:

"scottxj, you do not have permission to access this page. This could be due to one of several reasons:

1. [*]

Bit of a problem, considering I will be buying a S2 in the next week or so

 

I'm guessing you didn't bother to read the rules in the new members section scott?

 

Awesome!

I'm still looking but really hoping to find something before the end of the month. Really want a series 3 vanden plas in gold for some odd reason. Just looks epically classic.

 

Whoops!! No, sorry. This is the first car related forum I've joined in almost 5 years, mainly because I'm making a drastic change from an MR2 to an XJ6 soon.... and the last forum I joined had no such qualifying periods.

Well, from what I've seen so far, the wait will be worth it

 

A good basic guide to this ever so seductive car.

What is astonishing is the continuing parts availability when the last 6 cylinder car was made sometime in 1985, although the Daimler V12s carried on until 1992, albeit only about 50 a week.

 

Thanks, Fraser. "Basic" is defeinately what I was shooting for. With so much information about these cars being available it is a bit difficult to keep things short and concise.

I reckon the parts availability is a simple supply-and-demand thing. There's still enough demand so the supply is there.

Interestingly, I'm hearing stories of AJ16/4.0 litre engine parts being "NLA"... no longer available. That engine is apparently so rugged and long lived that there is virtually no demand for many of the repair parts, especially internal engine parts. No demand, no supply.

One clarification: the Ser III six-cylinder remained in production well into calendar year 1987, with the last cars being built in April 1987. The very last one (a 4.2 Daimler, I think) is held by JDHT as far as I know. The next-to-last car was a USA-market 4.2 Ser III XJ6 which was sent to Los Angeles in May 1987.

Cheers
DD

 

And another little known fact is that the 4.2 XK was also used to power a tracked armoured vehicle for the British Army.

I suppose the unavailable parts for the AJ16 engines are those which never fail in hundreds of thousands of miles. Usually the aftermarket fills any gaps pretty quickly if the parts are in heavy demand.

I had no idea the engines were made so late into the 80s. The XJ40 was announced in 1986 in the UK.

 

Great guide! Thanks Doug

 

i'd like to d/l this guide too but don't have the privileges yet. to get my 10 posts thanks in advance!

 

Unfortunately, I'm not able to access this buyer's guide.

I'm looking for aftermarket support, most of what I find after searching the forum is related to late model Jaguars.

 

If you go to the end of the line with the Buyers Guide, you will see that I have also included an Off Site link to it.

 

Still not seeing a link that is of use... (please post the off site link)

If anybody is looking to read a buyer's guide & are unable to access this link, give this one a look.

it might help hold you over until you can access this one

http://www.jag-lovers.org/xjlovers/xjbuyersguide.html

 

@Aristo, I don't know where you are looking but I repeat, the end of the line in FAQ, the last two words say Buyers Guide (click on them).

https://www.jaguarforums.com/forum/s...ead.php?t=5913

 

Gotcha, thanks.

I'm still not able to see it, but that might be a work computor problem...

thanks again for the link though

 

Quick Reference Buyer’s Guide
Series I-II-II XJ6 XJ12
By Doug Dwyer

The purpose of this guide is to briefly outline some important purchase considerations, to answer the most common questions relative to used Jaguars, and to illustrate where a used Jaguar is and is not different from an ordinary used car. It is not intended as an in-depth history of Jaguars nor as a general "How to buy a used car" checklist.

Feel free to ask for more detailed information in the forum section below.
.
Are some years better than others? Which do I avoid?

We must take into consideration that the cars we are discussing here, from the oldest Series I XJ6 to the youngest Series III V12, range from 42 to 18 years old. Any that are still on the road have survived the test of time. Actual present day condition and the type of care they have received are more significant than any original quality and design issues. Series III cars were the most developed and, broadly speaking, are considered the most usable variant. They are also the most common on the used car market.

Will I have reliability problems?

Quite possibly you will, yes. The majority of these cars will certainly not have received proper care and, beyond that, age and normal wear eventually takes a toll on any car. Moreover, truthfully, these are not drive-it-and-forget-cars even under the best of circumstances. Some owner involvement will always be required. For most Jag enthusiasts this “involvement” is part of the fun.

To be totally honest if you’re on a tight budget and/or don’t have DIY skills, buying a 20-25-30 year old used Jag is probably not the right decision, especially if you buy a ratty example at the low end of the market.

That said; the typical scenario is to spend a few weekends and a chunk of cash sorting out all the problems and routine servicing that the previous owners have neglected to address. With a bit of effort, time, and money you can have a Jag that is easily reliable enough for daily use.

What about electrical problems?

The stories you’ve heard have basis in truth but most Jag enthusiasts agree that they are grossly overstated. Most of the electrical problems can be fixed by cleaning grounds (Earth points) and connectors and replacing fuses. The Lucas starters, alternators, and relays are high grade and as long lasting as any other, however original manually operated switches on these cars may be more problematic. Many of these items can be opened up and repaired.

Are they DIY friendly? What about parts?

Most repairs are well within the scope of a typical experienced DIY mechanic. The more difficult repair areas will be mentioned later. Parts support is generally outstanding and most mechanical parts are very reasonably priced. Trim and cosmetic parts can be very expensive, however. Parts specific to Series I and II cars are becoming scarce.

Engines:

The six-cylinder “XK” engine was manufactured in several displacements with the 4.2 litre being the most common. It is a tough engine and will seemingly soldier on forever, if given some care. Head gasket failures are not unusual over 100k miles. Minor oil leaks are typical. Some cars...USA market Series IIIs in particular... have a problem with tappet guides walking upward and getting smashed to bits against the camshaft. A “stake down” kit will prevent this. Ask the seller if one has been installed.

The 5.3 litre V12 is rather rare in the sedans (saloons) but they are out there. It is a great engine and nearly indestructible unless overheated. They are definitely more complicated, expensive, and time consuming to work on than their six cylinder cousins. For this reason, they are not for everybody. For those not easily intimidated, though, they are a joy to own and drive. The “HE” V12 was introduced in mid’81 and provides much better fuel economy than the earlier engines, which were notorious gas-guzzlers.

Transmissions:

Six cylinder and pre-1978 V12s used Borg Warner automatics, these are ancient designs but get the job done. Later V12s used the G.M. TH400 transmission, also ancient but well known for being a very good unit. Any of these are now of the age where they’ve lived a good long life so proof of recent overhaul would be a real “plus”. After all, they don’t last forever!

Brakes:

Four wheel disc brakes on all models. The fronts present nothing unique. The rears,
however, are inboard mounted. Replacing pads is easy but replacing rotors (discs),
calipers, and axle seals is very labor intensive. Proof of replacement of these items is another “plus”. Watch for rusty/contaminated fluid on cars that have been stored for a long time.

Differential:

Are very rugged and long lasting, unless the afore mentioned axle seals haven’t been replaced and the unit has been allowed to run low on fluid.

Wheel bearings:

Front wheel bearings are of conventional design and unremarkable. Rear wheel bearings, while not suffering from an unusually high failure rate, are difficult to replace and set-up properly. Proof of replacement would be another "plus" on your checklist.

Cooling system:

There is nothing unique on the six cylinder cars. The V12s however have a complicated cooling system that must be kept 100% up-to-snuff. No exceptions. Neglect can be disastrous to the V12 engine. A well-maintained cooling system suggests that the seller knows about Jaguars.

Climate control:

Series I cars used a fairly conventional heater and air conditioning system. Parts are getting scarce. Series II and III cars used a fully automatic climate control system. Repairs here can be labor intensive and expensive. A fully operational climate control system is yet another “plus” when considering a used Jag.

Suspension:

This is one of the best parts of the car and is part of what makes a Jaguar famous. All candidates will be of the age where bushings and ball joints will likely need replacing. Most of this work is DIY friendly except the lower control arm bushings on the front suspension, which are labor intensive. Again, proof of repairs in this area is something to look for.

Body:

These cars are built like tanks but even tanks rust. Look for rust in all the lower body panels and floorboards. Also, check the underbody for rust where the rear suspension radius arm bolts to the body. Rust here is a major safety concern. Front and rear windshield (windscreen) surround rust is a problem on Series IIIs in particular. From a purely practical perspective, only the rarest variants and most exceptional examples of these cars have enough value to justify the expense of rust repairs.

Fuel and Ignition systems:

Fuel tank rust is a problem on all series cars, especially if the car has been stored for long periods.

All series cars use a dual tank system that can present problems from time to time. Repairs to the changeover system are not too difficult as a rule.

The V12s received fuel injection in 1975. The early systems, and the OPUS ignition
systems that were in use at the same time, were not too good. Be careful here.

In mid-81, the V12 received a very good Lucas/Bosch fuel injection system and
C.E.I. “constant energy ignition“. Six cylinder 4.2 cars received the excellent Lucas/Bosch fuel injection in 1978 (USA market) and the CEI ignition followed about a year later. These are good, reliable systems, but age and mileage means some service and repairs could be required at any time.

All fuel-injected models suffer from deterioration of under hood (bonnet) fuel hoses. If they’ve already been replaced it might be a clue that the car was serviced by someone who knows their Jags.

Cosmetics:

Paint jobs and rust repairs are hugely expensive, as is new leather, wood, carpet, and chrome. If these things are important to you, find (and pay for) a car that needs little or no work in these areas. Many Jaguar projects are abandoned when the owner is faced with spending many thousands to make the car look as good as it runs.

Pre-purchase inspection:

Having the candidate car checked by a professional is usually well worth the money. Ideally, a veteran Jaguar shop should be selected, as they will know exactly what to look for. However, even a regular repair shop can check the basics and hoist the car for an underbody, brake, and suspension inspection.

Price vs. Quality:

These cars can be purchased for surprisingly little money. Do plenty of shopping around to get a feel for the cars and the market. If your goal is a Jaguar to really be proud of and enjoy, it pays to wait for the “right car” to come along and buy at the higher end of the market. This is almost always cheaper in the long run than buying a scruffy car and bringing it up to the same standard. With used Jags, finding the right car is more important than finding the right price, within reason of course.

If your goal is a project car, you’ll have plenty to choose from. There’s great satisfaction to be had in returning an old Jag to its former glory. Just be aware of the expense involved.

Hopefully some of your questions have been answered and you can shop for your dream Jag with a bit more knowledge and confidence.

Above all, do your research, a forum such as this one can be a great place to start out.

 

Buying or Selling - Information You Should Know

XJ Saloon Shoppers Guide

Series I-II-III Variants



There’s so much to say about these wonderful cars that I am hard pressed to find a good beginning. Sporting, luxurious, handsome and very ruggedly built, the XJ Saloons set world standards for many years.

Be aware, however, that purchasing a used example requires careful consideration. Although some technical discussion will follow, the principal idea behind this article is to discuss purchasing philosophy and strategy. Let’s start, though, with a very brief description of the various models.

The Series I production includes the 1968 through 1973 model years. It wasn’t until about 1970 that production was really in full swing and presentable Series I cars are becoming somewhat scarce. All USA variants had the 4.2L engine but a 2.8L version was offered in other markets. Starting in 1972 the V12 engine was also offered and these models are highly coveted and rather rare.

The Series I cars come with tons of olde-world charm, a short wheelbase, and that beautifully Jaguar-esque instrument panel with switches and meters spread far and wide. This was the car that had the saloon-car world on its ear for some time.

The Series II production ran from model years 1974 to 1979 (or 1980, if you include the South African built models). These cars are loved by many and yet cast off as an unfortunate stepchild by others. The North American models bore the burden of none-too-attractive rubber bumpers (the chrome “Euro” bumpers, very attractive, can be fitted) and the “federalized” interior, by most eyes, lost much of it’s classic appeal. Quality control problems, perhaps hyperbolized, and of less importance now than then, dogged the model.

Notable Series II features include the longer wheelbase, modernized instrument panel and controls, and, for the ‘78-79 USA models, fuel injection. The V12 engine was once again offered but the 2.8L six-cylinder was dropped after a year or so.

The creme de la creme of the Series II models was certainly the XJ6/12C Coupes. These handsome, vinyl-roofed two door models were manufactured for 1975-76-77 only and, despite some unique quirks, are very desirable and premium-grade examples are getting expensive.

Most potential XJ buyers, though, are probably considering the Series III model. This handsome version was produced from 1979 to 1992. Don’t confuse the later years (‘86 to ‘92) of Series III production with the “XJ40” type saloons, an entirely different car. These later XJ6’s (“XJ40” was the factory designation) were produced concurrently with the Series III beginning in 1986. The USA was introduced to the XJ40 car in the spring of 1987, as a 1988 model.

All of the USA Series III cars (1980 through 1987) were 4.2 equipped. Rest-of-world models could have a 3.4L six cylinder or the much-desired V12, as well as a wide variety of trim levels and model designations. All North American models were sold “fully optioned”. The US market saw only two models, the standard-issue XJ6 and the upscale Vanden Plas. The “VDP” was mechanically unchanged from the standard model but featured many interior refinements.

The twelve-cylinder production carried on through the end of 1992, with many enhancements. The V12 Series III model was never brought into the USA officially but a stray cat or two has mysteriously found it’s way past the federal gendarmes. Some sources say a small number of V12's came to the USA very early on, before Jaguar or the EPA pulled the plug. A mint condition Series III V12 will command a very high price, far higher than standard issue XJ’s.

The Series III cars are splendid and make wonderful daily-drivers. This model, other than the very earliest examples, was very reliable and was therefore responsible for a greatly improved image for Jaguar, with correspondingly high sales statistics. By many accounts it was the car which saved Jaguar.

Okay, but what about buying one? Soon enough we’ll discuss some “what to look for” particulars but, first, give some thought to your buying strategy.

Are you looking for a Jaguar that you can immediately be proud of or a fixer-upper? What is your tolerance for expenditure and aggravation? Will you be working on the car yourself or be having all work done by a professional?

These are vitally important questions. These cars, considering their provenance, and with the previously mentioned exceptions, are surprisingly inexpensive and in some cases, downright cheap. Don’t be fooled, though. Unless you are actually looking for a project car it is much more practical to buy a premium example. Although inexpensive to buy, an XJ can be every bit as costly as other Jaguar models to resurrect, and it would be very easy to find yourself hopelessly “upside down”.

Consider this. Much of the Jaguar appeal comes from the gorgeous paintwork and “gentleman’s club” interiors. A premium re-spray may well top $3000, and new leather, wood, headliner and carpets will certainly be $4000 or more. Assuming you want a Jag to be proud of, it would be very easy to spend $7000 on cosmetics alone yet the difference in buying a lovely example versus a “tatty” specimen may be only half that amount.

Of course, many Jag-lovers are already familiar with such scenarios and remain unfazed at the thought, and I certainly do not disparage them. However, since the market on these cars is so low, and increasing only very slowly, extreme caution is required. A well-versed XJ buyer may find that one of the best buys, in fact, can be the slightly tatty car which has had the major work already done, it’s discouraged owner simply “wanting out”, wishing he had originally bought at the higher end of the market and avoided the expense and frustration. Resurrecting a Jaguar, any Jaguar, is not for the faint-of-heart.

The Series III was built in large numbers and the survival rate has been good. I urge that any prospective buyer spend plenty of time shopping and wait for the “right” car. I assure you, they are out there.

Series I and II cars, however, are a different story. The normal rate of attrition has, of course, reduced the supply. Remember, too, that the resale value on Jaguars was notoriously low, leaving many cars unloved and neglected at a relatively early age. Subsequent owners of the inexpensive Jaguars often didn’t have the resources or, considering the value, the desire, to look after them properly.

Some restored, or at least well-freshened, Series I cars are out there, thanks to the obvious character and appeal of that model. Personally, I hope more of these cars are saved but, with values still low, it would clearly have to be an emotional decision to bring one back from the ashes. Of course the same could be said for just about any Jaguar model but, again, the narrow margin on these cars is tricky business.

Some of the best bargains may be the Series II cars. Although the Series II’s enjoy a certain loyal following, these cars are generally (and needlessly) unloved. On one hand this means that finding a well-kept example may be difficult yet, on the other, some good buys may be lurking. The previously mentioned caveats apply, though.

While discussing the Series II’s, it should be mentioned that the Coupes really fall into their own niche. This model is very desirable and is appreciating more rapidly than the sedan versions. I won’t go as far as saying any Coupe is worth buying but a less conservative approach may be justified, providing, of course, you don’t let your emotions run totally unchecked.

One of the advantages of the XJ saloons, despite urban legend, is their relative simplicity. A great many repair and routine servicing operations are well within the realm of the average do-it-yourselfer. In fact, this is one of those cars where, contrary to convention, a prospective buyer may do well to consider cosmetics over mechanicals. As mentioned previously, body, paint and interior refurbishment can be very costly but many mechanical repairs are surprisingly inexpensive for a home mechanic. Of course, a major engine or drivetrain failure would not fall into this category but, after some homework, an XJ buyer can readily identify which faults appear expensive but, in fact, are very easy to fix.

Any discussion of used Jaguars must eventually turn to the subject of rust. These cars are as rust prone as any other Jaguar and, unless you are actually looking for a restoration project, I would avoid a rusted car. Remember, these are not particularly rare automobiles. Rust free examples can be found. Once you start shopping you find plenty of examples to choose from. Naturally, if you are specifically looking for an older model, you may have to broaden your search grid to find a rust free car and, of course, your own geographic location has a very strong bearing on your results.

Look for rust in all the usual places such as floors, sills, and lower doors. Also check around the headlamp openings and, oddly, the floorpan area where the rear suspension trailing arms attach.

Now comes the exception which proves the rule. A great many XJ’s, especially the Series III examples, are known for developing rust at the base or lower corners of the front windscreen. As rust repairs go, rectifying this problem is not too difficult or costly. Some extreme cases, though, have perforated clear through and let water leak inside the car. This, obviously, is not a good thing. However, my point here is that if the car is excellent in all other respects do not let some minor rusting in this area eliminate the car as a candidate.

The six-cylinder XK engine, as we all know, is a paragon of ruggedness. With good care, 100,000 miles is a doddle for these engines and 150,000 miles is not unheard of. Head gaskets are considered a routine replacement item at 100,000 miles and, in the Series III cars, the tappet guides were known to work themselves free from the head and contact the camshaft, with catastrophic results. A “hold-down” kit can prevent this mishap.

The V12 engines were also very robust but, generally speaking, simply do not tolerate overheating at all. It is doubly critical, therefore, that the cooling system on a V12 car be kept absolutely up-to-snuff and be wary of an example which does not show evidence of proper upkeep. Engine repairs on the V12’s are notoriously expensive.

The transmissions, Borg-Warner designs on the six cylinder cars and earlier V12’s, and the GM TH400 on later V12’s, present no serious problems. The Borg-Warner types were not very sophisticated but seemed to work well enough. Some overhaul parts for these are becoming a bit scarce. The TH400 transmission is world renowned for it’s reliability and smooth operation. Remember, though, that many of these cars are becoming rather elderly and, even if well kept, the transmissions may be at the end of their normal expected life. Manual transmissions were offered in 6-cylinder variants for some markets but only a very small percentage of the cars were so equipped.

There are a couple mechanical areas to be mindful of, though. First, the rear brakes and differential seals. Some explanation is due here. Replacing the rear brake pads is simplicity itself but replacing the rear rotors, or the differential seals behind them, is very labor intensive. Likewise for repairs to the parking brake calipers. These repairs must eventually be carried out on all models but, obviously, it is a real “plus” if service records show that such repairs have recently been done by the present owner. Ideally, the owner will have had calipers, rotors, seals, bearings, etc. all replaced at the same time, a real bonus for you.

I might add, at this point, that the differentials are nearly indestructible. The rare failure usually occurs when the owner postponed the above-mentioned seal replacement and allowed the unit to run dry of fluid.

The other difficult area is the climate control systems. Repairs such as a heater core or evaporator core replacement are very difficult and labor intensive. The Climate Control systems on the Series II and III cars are quite tricky with some rather expensive servos and amplifiers. The best advice for the uninitiated would be to make sure that all heating and air conditioning modes function correctly or consider avoiding the car. Don’t ever believe a claim of “it just needs a recharge” when questioning an inoperative air conditioner. If that was the entire problem the owner certainly would have had it recharged himself. While a handful of climate control problems are easy to fix, it is hard to tell from a simple inspection and if a total system overhaul is ultimately needed the bill could easily top $2000.

Returning back to the positive, I’ll reiterate that many repairs (steering, suspension, cooling system, etc) are no more difficult or costly than on an “ordinary” automobile and most mechanical parts are readily available and, in many cases, surprisingly inexpensive. Notice I referred to mechanical parts here. Trim and body parts can be very costly and in some cases (such as Series I items) becoming scarce.

A complete and documented service history is another real advantage. Let’s face it, a well- kept Jaguar is a purring kitten but an ill-kept Jaguar is an unforgiving wretch. Naturally, you’d prefer the pampered example and service records will prove an owner’s claims. Additionally, service documentation will tell you if some of the above mentioned major repairs have already been tackled. The owner’s loss may well be your gain.

If you are not mechanically minded it is imperative that you have the car examined by a mechanic. Not just any mechanic, a bona-fide Jaguar mechanic. He will know exactly what to look for and can give you a report on the severity of sub-par items. Here again some minor flaws may work to your advantage. The owner may be disgusted with the car yet the faulty items may well fall into the very-easy-to-fix category. A true Jag-man will know!

Lastly, please remember that we are talking about cars that are anywhere from 11 to 33 years old. Even if you find a wonderful example, it would be unrealistic to buy any used car with an expectation that nothing will have to be repaired or serviced.