Hey all,

I'm not sure if anyone has had this issue before on a Series 3, if so some guidance would go a long way towards my peace of mind when driving it.

I bought the car about a week ago, in seemingly good order having been recently recommissioned and passed its state inspection.

Is been driving it for about 4 days regularly when I was on the freeway (in the midst of heavy, evening traffic no less) when it cut out leaving me stranded.

The car had been feeling asthmatic and lethargic when initially starting prior to the event but had otherwise been reliable. I had a rough idle which I put down to a potential leak somewhere in the air hoses.
Prior to the car cutting out I had felt some hesitation in the engine earlier in the journey about 5km earlier. Some occasional spluttering.
Once on the freeway the car cut out altogether and I had to be towed home. Once the car was cold it started (and continues to start and drive) without issue.
Although I'm apprehensive about taking it on a longer journey for further testing, it seems as though this issue happens when the car gets up to operating temperature

I've seen mention of the ignition amplifier in other posts when doing a search but haven't found anyone who has had the exact issue so can anyone point me in the right direction?

 

The "could be" list might get a little long.

Ideally you'd keep driving the car and be in a position to make a few quick on-the-spot checks when the problem occurs again so as to narrow things down. No spark, no fuel pressure, no injectors clicking. This approach might not be practical or desirable for you.

It is very common for both the ignition module (inside the amplifier) and the coil to give trouble after absorbing engine heat for awhile. If you're in the mood for guessing, replacing both wouldn't be too hateful in terms of effort or expense. There's a decent chance the problem will be solve. But...no promises.

If you replace the ignition module try to get your hands on a genuine AC Delco D1906.

Cheers
DD

 

I totally agree with Doug, First thought is failing ignition with heat soak.

I had same issue with freeway drive and shut down, tow and next morning all fine. Was the ignition coil and had a shop T/S . Problem is it drove in and drove out, but coil seems to have fixed it. Coil was no-name brand an only lasted two years. Problem came back and since coil was " new " assumed it was something else... another shop ran up a huge bill checking and replacing fuel pressure regulator... Finally put in new coil before taking it to a shop again and all good... Good coil and Good ignition amplifier should be first on parts list if you don't have history from prior owner... things you can do easily to eliminate potential problems and get you familiar with car. Check plugs for gap and visible signs of rich or lean mixture (if not sure, take a picture and post). Run your car with hood open in dark garage with a glove wiggle ignition wire looking for a spark to a ground..

Long shot but can be problem; inside the ignition amplifier ( located on the front of the intake manifold) are three components Ignition Model, condenser and over current diode. If the condenser or diode short to ground the ignition will have no spark. Both can be disconnected with out harm.

I recommend a Lucas DLB 198 coil ( no ballast required) and the Delco D1906 ignition module. Any parts store will have aftermarket Ignition module on the shelf, but they can get the Delco unit within 24 Hours. You may have to get Lucas coil from SNG Barratt, or Moss motors.. Or a Pertronix coil from Amazon

https://www.jaguarforums.com/forum/x...update-275866/
Rgds
David

 

Other thought is the temperature sender is not giving the right readings, and the enrichment isn't being reduced after a cold start and the car is flooding. If you can make the car replicate the symptoms, unplug the wire to the sender, and short the terminals on the wiring harness end of the plug. That will tell the ECU that the engine is fully warm.

 

Ok Thanks everyone, it's good to have a starting point to work from. I've ordered a generic ignition module (all I could get in a short time frame in Australia unfortunately. I'll order a Lucas one from the UK in the next few weeks if it fixes the problem) and a new ignition coil and will update with results when I have tested.

In the meantime the car is sitting around not getting driven. Plenty of other small issues to work on which I'll make some more posts about as I get to them.

 

The ignition module is actually made by General Motors, was used on millions of US cars from the 1970's to 1990's. It's generic description is a 4 pin HEI module.

 

I knew that I should have checked first before ordering parts.I just assumed everything would be as straightforward as in the XJ40. Live and learn.

Anyway, taking a look under the bonnet I have this unusual (aftermarket I'm guessing) Bosch coil setup. Wires are electrical taped together and it is precariously close to the engine. Is there an easy way to take this back to a regular setup with the Lucas coil I've ordered or is it a case of identifying and fixing the questionable wiring piece by piece?

 

Recommend getting back to original coil setup without ballast.
0.6 to 0.9 ohm coil and with no ballast. I didn't notice your country at first, here in US millions of car used the GM 4 pin module, so parts and knowledge plentiful.

Have attached basic wiring between amplifier and coil
Rgds
David

 

Inexplicably the car now won't start.

The first few starts after changing the ignition module out, the car would surge and would erratically raise and drop RPM. I pulled it apart and cleaned all contacts, etc and now nothing. Just turns over without any sign of catching.

I've pulled everything apart yet again and even swapped around the old ignition module but still have the same problem

 

After lots of cleaning and jiggling of wires and connections the car starts again and I've arrived at the previous issue of surging revs when accelerating.

I tried to take it around the block and when pushed there was a 'pop' noise and the engine cut out. It restarted (with quite a bit of cranking) and limped back home.

I've attached a video for reference.