As you may know i have been trying without any success to free a seized 4.2 xk lump. Im sure its still possible to try more techniques and invest time and patience but i have come to the conclusion that a new engine would be best in the long run. I have located a sweet running 4.2 for peanuts, so here goes!

I have most of the ancillary parts removed from the series 2 engine, also the bonnet/ hood, rad etc, front lower grille, exhaust manifolds etc etc. Now i have to say access is excellent now that these items are removed and i have an engine hoist at the ready once i undo engine mountings.

It appears to me that if i can remove the engine without the gearbox my job will be greatly simplified. I can see a ring of bolts at various points around the bellhousing and a few wires but that appears to be all i need to disconnect the engine and wrangle it free. Am i wrong or are there more hidden horrors lurking? Once again your advice is hugely appreciated. JJ.

 

Well, sorta. I removed the 4.2 and BW from my S3 as a unit. Space is kind of tight in the tunnel to mess with all those bolts.


Trans to engine alignment would be a task if the two were split. And proper converter engagement is critical.


Trans items to disconnect to remove it:


1. Prop shaft, four bolts as I recall. Mine were Whitworth!!
2. Shifter cable, at the left side.
3. Rear trans mount. Be careful with the order of a bunch of parts.
4. Neutral safety. reverse lamps switch wires at the left, I think.
5. Speedo transducer wires on the right, I think.


Tis heavy and a big cherry picker is needed. I did not remove my front bumper. it barely cleared.


Secure it well, it is big and heavy. I stripped most of the stuff off to reduce weight and things to hang up.


But, I didn't install it or another 4.2.


Carl

 

Don't forget the torque converter bolts!

 

Oughta be lottsa fun to undo and redo in situ.


that is why my vote is pull the engine and trans as a unit. Remate on the floor and then stick 'em back in as a unit.

 

+1 on what Carl says. I took advantage of the mechanism that allows you to adjust the tilt of the unit.

 

Ok im enlightened to say the least! So its best to basically disconnect prop and cross member that supports box then the few obvious wires and links then remove the lot i take it.
I have the front bumper removed i forgot to mention so that should help clearance when lifting it out. Also i have a new 2 1/2 tonne engine crane so that should haul it out. Is there much messing about in the cabin in relation to the shifter? Its all a bit daunting for me as i never did an engine swap on one of these before just small ford 4 cylinders.

 

The shifter linkage can be disconnected from under the car. Be sure to take pictures and make notes. I don't know if you've done so already but the radiator core needs to come out to maximize clearance.
And don't forget the engine ground strap!

 

Yeah rad is out. As are all the other ancillary items. Engine looks temptingly exposed and easily accessed. Thats why i was considering leaving gearbox in situ. But if its easier take out complete unit then so be it, i wont question the knowledge on here!

 

And, of course, bonnet removed.

 

As the condition of the existing gearbox is unknown / untestable it might be advisable to check the running / operation of the one on the replacement engine and if good replace as a unit.

 

Certainly [engine + transmission] as a unit is the easiest way to go. I once removed a transmission only from a Series I and soon realised it would have been a lot easier to take the whole unit out which is how I've done it ever since.

Apart from the weight, you need plenty of height above and below the vehicle to lower the rear of the transmission as the engine is lifted forwards, up and out. It lifts out at a sharp angle.

Graham

 

Additional tips


1. A balance bar, to connect to the lifting hooks and thence to the hoist allows the steep tip needed to clear things. I and my helper managed without one by muscle power. Both of us, it is heavy!!


2. A bottle jack to support the tail as the trans mount is removed. a trolley jack will work. but, encumbers the under the car work space.


3. I put a blanket on the roof and the bonnet went there, upside down. Safe and saved precious work space.


4. A mover's rolling pad is a great place to put the removed "lump" move about.


5. When you split trans from engine, the "cherry picker" can help a lot in the remate.


If you've done one, this one will be familiar, just bigger!!


Carl

 

which are impossible to reach on a seized motor when in place! i say pull whole assembly and seperate on floor!