17 or 18 " Wheels/Tires on a 1985 XJS
#1
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17 or 18 " Wheels/Tires on a 1985 XJS
Hi Members,I like to know what is the largest size of Wheel/Tire that fits on a 1985 XJS Coupe.I am thinking about 18x8.5 in the front,18x9.5 in the back.I like the Wheels made/sold by Coventry.Any good advise ??,spec.what Tire size fit?,the Car is mostly for show,total milage a year @ 2000 miles.thanks Thomas/jax.Florida
#2
The largest wheels tyre I have seen on an XJS with no modification to the wheel arch apart from rolling the lip are 18x10 with 285/35's these were on a very stiffly sprung car and the owner advised they do rub slightly on the track.
255's on an 8" rim fit easily as long as the offset is correct. I think you could squeeze 275/35 on 18x9.5 with standard springs if you do not lower the car.
BTW any combo you will need to ensure the offset is correct otherwise they will rub.
cheers
Warren
255's on an 8" rim fit easily as long as the offset is correct. I think you could squeeze 275/35 on 18x9.5 with standard springs if you do not lower the car.
BTW any combo you will need to ensure the offset is correct otherwise they will rub.
cheers
Warren
#4
#5
18x10 will fit but if you lower the car 25% stiffer springs will not be enough you will have issues with rubbing. You will need to roll the lip, the inner guard rolls upwards so when the suspension is in bump the tyre will rub on the inner guard. The suspension needs to be stiff enough so it does not hit the bump stop or you need to modify the inner guard.
#7
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#8
#9
18x 10 require a larger offset or the guards have to be flared. XKs 18x 9.
#12
Offset?
What most people seem to forget about is that the main purpose of offset has nothing to do with preventing tires from rubbing, it has to do with handling, alignment, excessive wear, etc.
As designed, the vertical centerline of the tire/wheel are designed to be in a certain position between the inner and outer wheel bearings (usually centered). If you put on tires/rims that change this relationship, you will have excess bearing wear.
The vertical centerline also is designed to intersect the camber axis at a certain point. If it does not, again, excess wear along with compromised handling.
There are other things in with this, such as are the rims "hub centric" or "lug centric", my brain is just too rattled at the moment to comment on the others.
Some of the alignment issues can be corrected by special alignment.
Tim A.
As designed, the vertical centerline of the tire/wheel are designed to be in a certain position between the inner and outer wheel bearings (usually centered). If you put on tires/rims that change this relationship, you will have excess bearing wear.
The vertical centerline also is designed to intersect the camber axis at a certain point. If it does not, again, excess wear along with compromised handling.
There are other things in with this, such as are the rims "hub centric" or "lug centric", my brain is just too rattled at the moment to comment on the others.
Some of the alignment issues can be corrected by special alignment.
Tim A.
#13
What most people seem to forget about is that the main purpose of offset has nothing to do with preventing tires from rubbing, it has to do with handling, alignment, excessive wear, etc.
As designed, the vertical centerline of the tire/wheel are designed to be in a certain position between the inner and outer wheel bearings (usually centered). If you put on tires/rims that change this relationship, you will have excess bearing wear.
The vertical centerline also is designed to intersect the camber axis at a certain point. If it does not, again, excess wear along with compromised handling.
As designed, the vertical centerline of the tire/wheel are designed to be in a certain position between the inner and outer wheel bearings (usually centered). If you put on tires/rims that change this relationship, you will have excess bearing wear.
The vertical centerline also is designed to intersect the camber axis at a certain point. If it does not, again, excess wear along with compromised handling.
You are correct that incorrect scrub will affect tyre life especially if it is Zero, Psoitive or negative Scrub will also increase steering feedback and weight. Scrub can change significantly with higher profile tyres as the sidewall flexes. Offset is needed for 2 things and that is keeping the tyre from rubbing and if this is done correctly Scrub will not be effected to any major degree.
BTW as the Jag is wishbone Scrub can be changed by altering the camber (this is not so for Macpherson Strut)
Last edited by warrjon; 01-29-2012 at 10:14 PM.
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plums (01-30-2012)
#14
What I was trying to say was that the offset shouldn't be changed *****-nilly. The offset selected should be such that it will keep the centerline of the tire/wheel in the original position.
#16
Based on my very quick measurements in the dark garage I estimate an offset increase of around 20-25mm would be about the most I would be comfortable with. This would leave 15-20mm clearance beween the tyre and raduis arm.
BTW the 16x8 TWR rims were 33 offset from memory.
Best to measure hub face to guard lip and hub face inwards to the farthest point - which is either the radius arm or bumpstop. Then take these measurements to a tyre shop.
#18
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18" Wheels on a 94MY XJ-S
I fitted these 18" Speedline Mistral Alloys & 245/40/18 to my XJ-S at the weekend. They were manufactured in 1994 & started life as a factory extra on the 1st series of straight six Aston Martin DB7s.
I only drove the car about a mile after I fitted them due to the awful weather at the weekend. My initial thoughts are that the outer edge of the tyres are likely to catch on the inner lips of the rear wheelarches, so I may have to reduce the tyre size to 225/40/18.
At the moment I'm undecided if the wheels look too big for the car or maybe I'm not used to seeing them as yet - I've not disposed of the original 16" 5 spokes so if I decide in time I don't like the look of the Mistrals, I can always refit the original wheels & tyres before listing the Mistrals on good old Ebay.
Regards
A.
I only drove the car about a mile after I fitted them due to the awful weather at the weekend. My initial thoughts are that the outer edge of the tyres are likely to catch on the inner lips of the rear wheelarches, so I may have to reduce the tyre size to 225/40/18.
At the moment I'm undecided if the wheels look too big for the car or maybe I'm not used to seeing them as yet - I've not disposed of the original 16" 5 spokes so if I decide in time I don't like the look of the Mistrals, I can always refit the original wheels & tyres before listing the Mistrals on good old Ebay.
Regards
A.
#19
For aesthetic reasons, the gap between the top of the tire and the fender should always be less than the sidewall height of your tire.
When you upsize your wheels, the sidewall height of your tires decreases and causes the fender gap to look larger, by comparison, than it did when appearing above a taller tire. This is why many people lower their cars after upsizing their wheels—so that the fender gap remains in proportion to the tire sidewall height.
In other words, lower the front a bit. With those narrow-profile tires, it's causing the fender gap to seem excessive, like the car is jacked up a bit in the front. After you correct this aesthetic issue, THEN I would see how it looks.
When you upsize your wheels, the sidewall height of your tires decreases and causes the fender gap to look larger, by comparison, than it did when appearing above a taller tire. This is why many people lower their cars after upsizing their wheels—so that the fender gap remains in proportion to the tire sidewall height.
In other words, lower the front a bit. With those narrow-profile tires, it's causing the fender gap to seem excessive, like the car is jacked up a bit in the front. After you correct this aesthetic issue, THEN I would see how it looks.
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