I am having some issues with the convertible top on my 1988 H&E.
The top and all the windows were working great until I installed the Climate Control ECU and installed a radio in the car.
CC ECU: I posted before about not knowing where one of the 4 plugs go so I am not sure whether the CC ECU has anything to do with the Top and the rear 1/4 windows.
The radio installation was straightforward since I only messed with the radio harness.
What is happening now is that the door windows work fine but the top and the rear 1/4 windows do not work anymore.
When I check for power at the top and rear 1/4 switches, I have 12 volts. If I activate any of the 3 switches, I immediately lose power.
If I wait a while, the 12 volts come back. I activate the switch and I lose the 12 volts again.
In the trunk area there are 2 Thermal fuses for the system.
The main Thermal fuse is connected directly to the + terminal on the battery. Shown in the pic below.

Main fuse connected to the POS battery terminal
The other fuse for the top and the rear 1/4 windows shown in this pic

When I activate the switches, I lose power on both sides of the Thermal fuse, but I have power at the main fuse that is connected to the battery.
Is there a second Thermal fuse somewhere in the top and rear 1/4 windows circuit? Can anyone give me an idea before I go tearing the system apart?

 

Maybe help PDF in attachment.

 

Roman. Thank you. I happen to have the electrical PDF you sent me.
Following the trouble tree, if I check for power every circuit checks out OK until I activate the Top switch or either of the 2 1/4 window switches. At that point I lose power.
If I wait for a couple of minutes the power comes back. When I activate any of the 3 switches, I lose the power again.
I will start checking the individual circuits from front to back and report the results.

 

Problem resolved: The issue was with the MAIN RELAY 12v feed. The ORANGE wire to the relay was barely holding on to the terminal, probably about 3 strands of the wire. When checking for 12v with a test light it would test OK but when a load was applied, the amperage was not available. I guess the few strands of wire would heat up and drop the voltage to zero.
I repaired the faulty wire and now all is well.
Thank you.