Hi folks. I m a new member and about to take on a 1988 XJS convertible with the V12. So far I've learned they are cheap to buy but expansive to own. Don't care I'm doing it anyway - its a freebie. the car has 55K miles on it. BRG with Saddle top and upholstery. was running up to few months ago. What I need is a capable mechanic in the central New Jersey area (Millstone). I will have the car towed to the shop to get a complete diagnostic and get the car running again. I was told it needs a coolant hose. Appreciate any recommendations. Thanks and look forward to keeping in touch.

 

Welcome and good luck! Pre-90 V12 cars are problematic, in particular the motor. It has a history, as I'm sure members can attest, of coolant/overheating. Notably, there are a dozen+ hoses snaking around the engine compartment. In addition to hoses failing the motor if overheated will require the heads pulled...expensive and laborious job. There is NO freebie where talking about a V12 that "needs a coolant hose" particularly if the car has sat for a long time (which 55K miles may indicate). If your shop has no experience with V12 cars, look for another shop!

Dave in AZ

 

" There is nothing more expensive than a free Jaguar"

 

If it were me.... I'd have the shop do an engine compression check, and while in there renew the HT leads, rotor arm and cap and change the spark plugs. (Use genuine Marelli parts for distributor) Also - inspect for rust in the body. Also, check the brake system condition - especially the rear brakes. The rear ones can be expensive, or a time consuming DIY project. If there's no horrors found, which would turn it into a money pit, then this should be a great opportunity for motoring fun! HTH, Dave

 

There is a regional sub-forum that includes discussion of trusted mechanics/shops. You may also want to ask your question there, or search that forum, specific to shops who will work on an old Jaguar V12. https://www.jaguarforums.com/forum/us-northeast-35/

There are probably local Jaguar clubs or classic car meetups, or even Facebook groups for Jag owners in the area, where you could ask around for recommendations. Good luck with her.

 

Welcome to the forum. Congratulations on the car.
May I suggest that you go through the car thoroughly before using it. The following stickies at the top of the forum will be an excellent guide:
V12 cooling system maintaining
No start of a HE V12.
Worksheet paper that might help many members

Be careful to look at the injector hoses, if they are brittle and cracked, they MUST be renewed. Check the brake discs and pads. Change the brake fluid if it is dark, ie not clear, BUT before doing this, check on here, ask, the EXACT bleeding procedure - which is a specialised procedure on your model and MUST be done correctly.

If you enjoy working on cars, and have a covered space to do it in, you can make the car fast and reliable, and nothing you come across will not find someone here who can provide procedures, and most probably photos, of what to do and how to do it. This forum has really helpful members who want to assist new to Jaguar people get the most from their cars.

 

Really galls me when so many say the early V12's are unreliable because it flat out isn't true - what is true is that they will make you pay a heavy price for poor maintenance and so many have ended up in the hands of those who cut corners or treat them like todays tech cars.

They do have their quirks for sure, they are not cheap to run for sure but they are rewarding and frustrating often at the same time, one thing that is almost certain is that you won't encounter other such cars on a daily basis, I can't recall when I last saw one on the roads around me that wasn't mine. Try to find a shop with an old school mechanic not a laptop jockey modern techniques do not work on these cars.

Heed Greg's advice or the relationship with this cat will not be a good one. I wouldn't even take a chance on 34 year old fuel hoses unless barbeque's are your thing, don't ever run these on water only as so many seem to do, don't expect it to be a garage queen and forgive you either they like regular use.

Be real cautious with the Worksheet and stay focused on getting it running in a safe manner (the worksheet can cause major spending if you address every item on it). Dump all the fluids and get the car to a known state focus on air, water, fuel, steering and brakes. Stick around and I'm sure we can find ways to scare the $ out of your pocket,

 

I'm learning very quickly that is the case. I think we'll be selling her soon.

 

Sorry to hear that, they can be very rewarding to own. Like any relationship things can be pretty intense in the beginning. If it is a matter of funds then think of the car as eating an Elephant and do so one bite at a time, don't think you need to eat the whole Elephant at one sitting, prioritise the tasks.

We can help with that but to do so we need to get some idea of the condition of the car, how long it has been idle if ever.

 

the car was sitting for 4 months so I had it towed to a "qualified mechanic" and it cranked over with a new battery.... so far so good. have both a brake and cooling system light on so have to figure that out yet. Waiting for the mechanic to give me his thoughts now that he can take it for a test drive. Assuming I can get it road worthy at a reasonable cost, I still need to address two rear windows that are no operating although I have pulled them up and holding in place with tape. Will need a new rag top and seats should get new leathers. as far as rust is concerned I have a few spots on rear quarters in front of wheels.

 

thanks again for your guidance. "there is no try, only do". I am at the mercy of a mechanic that has a stellar reputation and I feel he is giving good advice/recommendations. Im waiting for his laundry list with pricing for coolant system test and flush, complete tune up (wires, plugs, cap rotor etc.) and belt replacements. Would you have a sense as to what these tasks should cost? thanks again.

 

How long is a piece of string, you could easily spend several hundred based on availability in your area, don't be tempted to cheap out, stick to OEM where available - you may save money initially but you will spend it sooner or later - most likely sooner. I don't know prices in your area but for the list you mention 5 to 600 wouildn't be a surprise.

 

Changing the spark plugs etc. isn't quick, so the bill will be mostly labor. Once done, its done for many miles. Because its mostly labor, it really makes sense to use the best quality parts - i.e. OEM whenever possible to avoid premature failures and a repeat of the labor bill. I do most of my own maintenance, as a stress reliever, but occasionally take it to a shop. The bills from the shop can be "eye watering", but because I know what's involved, its understandable, and still good value to get it done right. Hopefully you'll see how special these cars are when you drive it!