Does anyone know how to remove the lock tumblers from the main barrel on one of these things? Some secret clip? Or is it even possible?

 

Show us the other side!!!

 

You're right. Sorry bout that...
Also noticed that little hole in the cylinder.
Probably just a vent for moisture...?

I need parts of this assembly... I need/want to use my old barrel/cylinder, key, lock - I want (hope) to pop that into this handle as my other handle (on the car) doesn't have the correct receiver hardware for the auto lock set up. Don't know why.

I shouldah just continued on the old thread I'd started dealing with this, I think back in April...

Anywho,,,

 

Hello Jay

I took mine to the local lock smith - and they said they are not repairable.

So I purchased one from Mexico - which did not lock.
So I purchased one from the USA, which is working good

Not so much of a help I realize, just means I have 3 keys on the key ring (doors, ignition and boot)

Cheers
Steve

 

Thanks Bez... I do wanna avoid a ton O keys.

Eventually (sooner than later actually) I would like install a good but simple auto door and truck, with chirp and lights flash, aftermarket alarm... Still I would like to use my current key in this lock.

I was messing around with the "new" lock last night and I have a funny feeling, and think I can see it, that this little hole has a roll pin pressed into it. I was trying to drive it in some BUT I think later today I will carefully drill it in or out and see what happens. We'll see.

 

Please don't pay attention to the 2 inch hole I made drilling it out,,, but it was a roll pin... What a mess, but I'll get it some how.

Now, to get my lock tumbler out,,,, more neatly...


The roll pin sits in that slot where the needle is.

 

Actually, this is a little better ah shot with everything disassembled... The roll pin is a monster, removing it, while all else ain't so bad. That IS a ball bearing and it rides in that small hole that can be seen in the tumbler/barrel (sorry if I have the terminology messed up) and rides on a spring, make sure it doesn't POP out on sliding the tumbler out of the cylinder on removal...

I still have an intact lock (on the car but doesn't have the proper recess for auto lock solenoid pin). So, I don't know what I'm going to do. That roll pin is going to have to be removed from my lock (the "good one") no matter what and that's what scares me. The pin has to be either PULLED out or DRILLED out... PITA

 

Man! Give me an engine swap any day!!!

I am not made for small bits, being as organized and the need for precision - like this - bit I got it...

I can't believe how long I've been chasing this solution. Years.

The trunk handles are repairable and the lock tumbler with the keyways and tumblers are mostly but not completely interchangeable... I nervously removed my good lock (without autolock) and lock handle today and after looking at it a good long while decided to give it a shot. The fear,,, not being able to close or lock my trunk parked on the streets of New York... Anywho
For folks who ever want/need to do this, DRILLING out the roll pin is a dangerous task. It takes a very skinny bit and breaking the bit is a real possibility (a nightmare,,, ask me how I know) AND the roll pin is OVERLY high grade steel....

My girlfriend makes jewelry so she had things on hand (TOOLS - bits specifically) that I would never have... What worked was a micro style burr ball that fits something like a dremel or a flex shaft... Have a ball that will fit or be close to fitting INTO the HOLE IN the roll pin and that way it can be nicely ground OUT until the pin is no longer viable to hold the tumbler with the keyway in the handle of the boot latch ...

EVERYTHING is kept together with THIS roll pin. If roll pin can be removed everything else comes apart nicely. The roll pin sloppily runs in the/a grove that runs all around the tumbler (again, unsure of the terminology) in the barrel. See photos in previous post.

The only parts that were interchangeable between the two styles of lock, auto lock and non auto, was the key way/tumbler and the the tension spring on the end of the whole assembly.

I thought I would simply be able to remove the keyway/tumbler from my original lock and put it into the new lock. No go. For some reason, even tho everything looked EXACTLY the same (and I still believe is) the keyway/tumbler assembly from the original would NOT turn in the replacement barrel. So, I swapped all of the key lifters/tumblers from the original to the replacement keyway/tumbler and BAM,,, it worked. I actually ended up removing and leaving out TWO of the key lifters/tumblers and then it worked. (The little rectangular bits in the photo). It got jammed up with all 6, so unsettled with 4.

Btw,,, having the key IN the tumbler assembly made insertion and removal to and from the barrel WAY easier,,, if not altogether possible.

I'm sorry I don't know the proper terms for all these bits. I ain't noooooo locksmith. Today taught me that.

Below is what is/was left over from the original NON-auto type lock set up.

 

Well done - very well done
Cheers
Steve

 

Thanks Man... Was a lot more than I bargained for...
Broken of bits, drilling out broken bits, sheared bolts and rounded off heads are really what can make job,,, a really painful experience...

I am swapping an engine in a 2000 SType and all of the manifold bolts sheared off (2 on each side). I drilled and drilled to NO avail - bolts are toooo high grade. So,,, handy me, I notched the flanges on each side of the manifold run at the place where the cats and down pipe meet, just enough to get bolts (HOPEFULLY) in the slots to pinch them down/together. I'll be back at it tomorrow. Praying that it is a work around. This,,,, as work for payment for a flooded XKR I got from the same guy...

Cars are running my life, 😂