JJJ
It does not seem to say what its pressure rating is. It has to withstand 100psi or more, I suspect this may be low pressure line for non fuel injected pressures. This is the stuff (not necessarily the right ID, but the right idea).
NEW USA Gates GreenShield Barricade Fuel Injection Hose 5/16 " x 15 ft 225 PSI | eBay
Greg

 

Great Greg...

I just ordered this product,,, and attempted to cancel previous ebay purchase. We will see.

 

JJJ the 30R6 you bought is rated at 50psi. You could use it on return lines and other lines that are not under pump pressure.

 

JJJ

You are a registered member,

We change cars, fact, its cheaper than changing wives, fact again. So all you need to do is "update" the car/s in your profile/signature, and if you have multiple cars, ensure you mention WHICH car is being discussed.

You have sorted that hose I see.

Make real sure those barbs do NOT get damaged.

You will need some EFI specific clamps for the hose on the LH side of the rail, it is NOT a push fit style like the Injectors.


This is an EFI spec clamp, note the longer "tang" to protect the hose from the serrations.

 

Hello folks.

Some progress today, I think, lol..

I got the fuel rail disassembled, injectors out and in a bath which I hope will free up any stuck innerdz, in case they are. New FI hose should be in before the end of the week at which I will clean up and paint the rail, install new hose and put it back together. I think I can reuse all of the upper FI seals and will order new lower seals and cups (I hate the cups - are they necessary?). What stood most in the way today were the cups, actually. At first I was working light-handedly, got sick of that pace and began working a bit more aggressively. Total job getting things apart took about 1 1/2 hours. (see photo). Did not make a single scratch on the stems I'm happy to say. I was careful there. Basically I took a small and smaller set of wire cutters and cut the cups and then bent and pried them off points. Then used an xacto knife to cut the dry hoses off. The cups seem to do a good job of sealing and squeezing together the base of stem and hose on both the rail and at the injector. Maybe replacing them is a good idea.

PLEASE notice the picture of what I think is a second CTS. I have heard there is only one but I swear this seems like a second. Its on the passenger side coolant line/tube/rail thing and when removed it IS coolant in the line.

I'm posting pictures of what I think are the hose from the Lucas ECU in the engine bay. I blew into the hose in the boot at the Lucas ECU and unfortunately met NO resistance. Seems to be wide open. I will trace it under the car tomorrow and see if I can find the reason or an opening. Should there be resistance does it only DO what it DOES when the engine is active?

Warren, I didn't see the wire as you described (which seemed to end in a plug) in your photo. The only thing I could find in that general area is wire that is covered in a brittle plastic sheath/sheilding which comes out of one harness and goes back into another. I thought I took a picture put it looks like I did not. I will tomorrow.


Also fixed the window switches. Took each window and roof switch apart and cleaned the inside and lubed up window tracks. Windows work well and smooth now. lol,,, its the little things sometimes! And, for now removed air filter intakes and will sand down and repaint. Looking forward to change front disks, and pads. Cant reset the radio code! I need to get this thing running FIRST! lol

Also, there is a "cup" with an interesting metal circular filter at the front of the drivers side CHead and Cam cover area (see photo). It's covered by a "rubber boot" which feeds via metal tube into the LH air intake. I posted the picture before and will again now. The rubber cover of the cup developed and irreparable crack and I will need to replace it BUT I don't know what its called or where to find the part number. Could use some help with that. I have a catalogue from SNG Barratt for my XK8 that does an amazing job of exploding areas of the car and providing part numbers and prices. Is their anything like that for XJS's? Maybe with Barratt? I will call tomorrow I guess. Any Other sources like that please pass them along.



this is that filter - the cover that I need it there too.



Rail and bits...



IS THIS THAT VAC HOSE FROM THE ECU???



IS THIS A SECOND CTS??? NOTICE THIS IS THE PASS SIDE.

 

JJJ
You do need the cups!
yes, that is the ECU vac pipe
That cup is part of the crankcase breather system. The filter should be cleaned out. It feeds crankcase fumes into the engine to burn them.
On the A bank water manifold that is a CTS, but not, I think, an ECU signal. I have an idea it is something to do with the startup procedure and disactivates something like the enrichment timer. Not sure though.

 

Hello Greg... Thank you very much!

I will order the cups, like right now.
If possible - do you have a part number or a diagram so I can track down the rubber boot for the breather?
I think I will order another CTS from Welsh Enterprises for that matter.

So much NEW language with this car! Shweeeeew!!!

 

Hi Again Greg...

Nevermind. I found the breather

Now, for some needed sleep.
Back at her in the AM

 

The ECU Vacuum line is open to the manifold at the engine. Blowing through it from the ECU should be unrestricted.

From the engine end, is should hold a vacuum against the ECU.

 

That rubber cover is C44386.

Blowing into that vac hose in the boot, and getting a clean blow, is GOOD.
Now, connect it to the ECU, remove the hose you are pointing at, and SUCK on it. It MUST hold vac, if NO, then further digging will be needed.

That CTS looking thing on the rear of the RH water rail is indeed emission related, as Greg suggested. We have no such junk, so people in your market will be the most help here.

BUT

That looks like the front water rail, and that is where the temp gauge sender is located, with ONE wire only on it. This is a parts drawing and shows that sensor as #10, and is DAC4737. Maybe something to do with Marelli, dunno.

#8 is the Temp Gauge transmitter.



Good to see DIRTY hands, proves you are INTO IT, and not paying someone else. WELL DONE.

 

On Marelli cars the CTS is on the A bank, that is the temperature gauge just behind it

 

Bugga.

I need a drink, what's your pick Warren??

 

Thanks... I'm getting to her now!

You guys are MORE than awesooome!!! And much appreciated! But you know that, lol...

Grant - pls, have a beer (or sumpthin) for me. It's been more than a decade!!!

 

I recon next time I'm in Adelaide we should have a drink...........

 

BTW my car has a CTS on the LHS water rail - no idea what it's for as none of the documentation for Marelli cars mentions it. This is Jaguar's idea of messing with our brain.

 

Hello all - thanks for all the responses.

Yes Warren. I have an CTS on both sides. I am convinced. I have stuff in my work mailbox, will pick up new CTS tomorrow and ordered a second last night. I am having some strange happenings with my phone. I am taking pictures of the "dreaded" coaxial wire (and other things) - but they are not to be found in my "photos", to show ya. Go figure. I'll try again tomorrow evening after work.

I tested my FI's today. Looks like 5 out of 12 give me the click. Any secrets on freeing up injectors???? I soaked them in B12 Chem-Tool over night, took them out, dried them and tested. (any secrets to getting the little filter out?)... After testing I dosed them all with some WD40 down the hole hoping to free up the rest. That's all I got. I HATE the idea of spending $$$$ on injectors at this stage. I need to know that the engine is good! What ta do?!?!

There is NO serious rust on this car. None, no where. In fact I am surprised that most everything works. Or works after a little massaging. I have her completely off her paws and crawled around under the back end today. Looks good (see pics). Removed wiper assembly which works. Full of mouse nests,,, NO rust. All lights work. Blinkers, brake, hazards and all. Blowers and fans for heart etc. High and Low beams. Had the top going up and down today - works smartly. Windows up down. Brakes without booster feel firm. Front and rear disks have a "lip" at the egde and need replacing. Floor rot is confined to what IS the floorboard section. Doesn't creep, at all, up the sides off the floorboard. I BLEW a fuse for the door/puddle lights, which were working nicely ---- any ideas?

Keep in mind, I'm in the North East, I have not put a drop of water and soap on this car, nevermind a buffer, compound, cutting paste and polish. She's been outside for a decade. All just sitting rust, dust and must... I think she will clean up nicely. Any words of confidence in getting the engine in going and in shape are welcomed. I'm falling in love with CrabApple, had a hard time sleeping last night thinking about how, when and whether I can get her engine going. Now THAT'S weird, lol

So,,, I have supplies to gather before anything else can happen. I need this car started!!! YES,,, looking for any kind of reassurance right now.

 

Body and chassis look solid! Under hood wiring notwithstanding, it looks like a viable car for restoration. Surprising condition given your description of it's storage conditions.

Fuel injectors can be sent out for cleaning and balancing. "Balancing" is not done by adjustment however, Send them more than 12, if you have spares, and they'll pick the closest matched set of 12.

They can be had new for $55ish referred for $40ish if you have any that are truly failed.

Or you can use a spare fuel pump, pressure regulator, EFI fuel line and a gasoline can to make your own little cleaner setup. Something like this.



Use appropriate caution! Flammable fluids under pressure etc. Remote operation is wise with long leads to the fuel pump and the injector connector.

A 9v battery can trigger the injector to flow your solvent through it. Just use short bursts. Normally the injectors only see voltage for a fraction of a second. You don't want to energize it for long or you risk damage.

 

Hey All.

JigJag... Thanks for the fuel pump suggestion as a means of testing FI's. Ill use it... I honestly don't know why rigging up an old fuel pump (and I have some) hadn't occurred to me. IF, I cant get what I have to work, I guess I will have to order new/used ones.

I received my FI hose today and will begin cutting. Seals and caps will be here tomorrow from Welsh Enterprises. Does anyone know the standard length of cuts for the 10 off the rail AND then the two longer on the end? I thought I saw 1.75 inches for the shorter. No idea about the two longer cuts.

Also, I am talking to guy in the UK with the floor pan, with shipping, should end up being about $270. I dont want to miss the pan (see link) but don't yet feel as confident as I'd like about the prospects of having a healthy running engine. I hate being in limbo as to what I am going to do. I AM leaning more and more in the direction of taking this on no matter what! On that NOTE:

I understand I still have LOTS of figuring with the FI problem BUT, I'd like to know what people think about this --- I am ready (or want) to go ahead and remove the AC pump, pull plugs, test for compression, inspect dizzy and dizzy vac hoses, and inspect the injector loom etc --- WHILE I have the rail off. Mostly because I have a TON of cleaning to do in the "vee". Its a mess down in there. I would never drive, run or idle her (should I get her going) with he amount of gunk that's collected - it would be dangerous. What do people think about that?

I feel like I might as well go ahead and order the appropriate length(s) of coax shielded wire now, while I am at it. How long a section or sections are needed for different applications, what kind and from where? I am still unclear about lots to do with the coax shielded wire but I would like to deal with this now, no matter what.

Thoughts?

 

Any coax will do the job, if you do replace the coax I would run it directly from the Marelli to the Lucas and bypass the engine bay. It is in the main harness that runs down the RHS of the transmission tunnel.

Remember to ground it at ONE END ONLY, doesn't matter which end.

 

If it were mine, that V would be dismantled, and cleaned and sorted, JUST BECAUSE.

All the Jag stuff in there is going to smack ya sooner or later, if not now, and doubling up when you dont have to is drinking time WASTED.

I understand the need o get it running, and i have been there many times, but it has some serious wiring issues, and as Doug has said many, many times, "do it once, do it all, do it properly, repeat in 20 years".