When you click on links to various merchants on this site and make a purchase, this can result in this site earning a commission. Affiliate programs and affiliations include, but are not limited to, the eBay Partner Network.
Warren, I'm also super interested in the idea of using 12 (I can get them for free) "straight 6" injectors off of an XJR... Did you have to modify them, shape-wise, like I was going to do? If all fuel flow is equal in all cylinders is it possible to use increased flow injectors for added horse power? I HAD to ask... And, there's a 6.7L v12 engine? I have SO SO much I want to learn!
JigJag - About the loom - I'll get back to you for the wire (if you still have it) a little down the line. I guess I would solder at the loom plug which is only only like 7 or 8 solder points. I'm also very interested in the "EFI connectors, boots, and black epoxy impregnated fiberglass sheathing" for when the time is right. As it is now, this loom will def function and, considering the amount of work I have ahead of me, the loom is something I will do at a later date.
I didn't order injectors. Holding off.
Over the next days I'll do what I can to unclog the injectors I have.
Thanks Greg for reminding me to pause.
I need to slow down, CHILL!
I am excited tho -
Warren, I'm also super interested in the idea of using 12 (I can get them for free) "straight 6" injectors off of an XJR... Did you have to modify them, shape-wise, like I was going to do? If all fuel flow is equal in all cylinders is it possible to use increased flow injectors for added horse power? I HAD to ask... And, there's a 6.7L v12 engine? I have SO SO much I want to learn!
The 6.7L is hybrid using Chevy 305 pistons and 95mm liners on a 6.0L crank. It requires the block to be bored for the larger liners, conrods have been modified for the 0.925" Chev wrist pin, and pistons need machining to set compression ratio.
The injectors I am using are off an X Type, they are Ford Denso and 10mm shorter than the V12 injectors so I have to machine spacers to go between the injector and rail. I am using a 6.0L fuel rail which uses O ring seals not hoses.
I am using a programmable ECU (MegaSquirt) to replace both the Lucas and Marelli ECU's with modified GM V6 coil packs. I already have the MS mounted in a Lucas case so it will plug into the XJS wiring harness.
The stock injectors would have worked for me for 450hp but as they needed rebuilding and the 12 Flow matched Denso injectors cost me about the same as having mine rebuilt, I decided to experiment with the Denso units. The Denso injectors are the latest 12 hole that provide a very fine mist, we'll see how it works out, if it's a total disaster I still have the stock injectors I can put in.
You will not increase power with bigger injectors. In fact just replacing the injectors with bigger ones will most likely result in a reduction in power due to over fueling. An engine needs a specific Air / Fuel ratio (AFR) for different operating conditions. 16:1 (that is 16 parts air to 1 part fuel) is good for cruising and better fuel consumption, for power the engine needs more fuel and AFR should be around 12.5:1, when you mash the throttle acceleration enrichment can be in the vicinity of 11:1 momentarily.
Happy to say that I got all of the FI's cleared and working today. Shweew.
Soaked them in acetone, taps on the FI body with a autobody hammer on all sides, connected to a fuel pump as JigJag suggested and they cleared up. You all were right! And I am grateful for y'all AND that I didn't do anything rash.
Tomorrow I plan to start piecing things back together. New seals, rotor, plugs, wires, both TCS's and several replaced vac hoses and a few other things - connect ECU's and... I'm nervous, lol.
Pulled front LH seat this afternoon and peeled back rugging and padding, just to get a better look at the floor board, and it looked NOTHING like I expected under there. Jeeeze! There is a steel box built up under the seat. Hmm.
Lol Grant!!! Are you one of those. I told ya soooo, types, haha... Bring it
Doing this on my phone so I won't kill ya with one of my --- crazy long messages.
So, I pieced everything back together today. I still have loads to do to button things up, properly. I would send a photo of where things are now but am a little ashamed, ummm errr yeah. I will.
But. Got everything together, attached fuel pump to pressurize the system and,,, after seeing no leaks after 4 or 5 cycles of key and fuel pump 3-4 second cycle - turned it over... She wanted to start!!!! BUT battery didn't have enough cranks to reeeealy get her juices flowing. I'm sure of it. Very different from before this all... I heard a couple of backfires, a strange cough and a hiccup,,, with no started fluid or anything. Then flat bat... But, it seemed like a good sign.
I'll charge my battery tonight and come back tomorrow with a full charge.
One thing I cannot figure out is were both of the things in the photos go. One is a pcv valve of sorts? And the other I have NO idea...
GETTING THERE... PCV and where does it go? NO idea... Dont even say it, lol
I did all my V12 fiasco learning before Internet and Forums, with only a Haynes book.
I also have a knack ( so the kids say) of looking at things from the inside and establishing WHY they do what they do, and working systematically to an end.
Dunno about that, its a car, its simple, and one wire at a time works for me.
My Black S Type, I know, has had a RH exterior mirror hissy for ages, another mirror, new door master switch, still hissy.
Told that the Driver Door Control Module was the issue, even had a scan tool tell me that, NOT convinced. Eventually found a broken wire in the top multi pin plug, inside the plug itself, reattached, that was fun NOT, all happy again.
Do you still have the air cleaner boxes? That valve sticks into a grommet in the B one. Quite a few things connect to the that you'll need to reconnect.
But imost importantly, you should not run the motor with them disconnected. Inhaling something is a possibility for sure, but the bolts that attach them to the intakes also plug holes that permit air to bypass the butterflies.
I do still have the breathers JigJag. Was going to give them some attention today and reinstall. So, the plug (PVC?) will fit into a gromet on the back of the breather? Does it use a rubber fitting to hold in place? And, any suggestions for the other "L-ish" shaped black plastic piece?
Actually, I have a couple few bits and pieces that seemed to have ended up without a home. On the other side (I'll send photo) is a small metal barrel (about the size of a large egg) and on the side it says "12V" I think...? Two wires and a vac line attached and an spout or snout on the other side. (looks like it might go to the other breather)?
Then, some vac lines... I've been looking at pictures of XJS motors trying to get it all sorted out... Could be a process. Def some wires and things I will want to replace and move around.
Got it. Thanks JigJag... I have to find some kind of gromet or rubber housing to hold it in place, I guess? In the mean time will idle ever normalize without it connected?
ldle is high, but she's running!!!
At first it was a strange pulsing with the idle,,, it would go up 1 or 2 hundred rpms in rhythm, then back down and back up. Entire cycle up to down 4-5 seconds. Then, I disconned the Orange line to the marelli ecu,,, I noticed a change. Then I reconned and it flattened out. Idle is still to high. Is there a way to set idle manually?
Got it. Thanks JigJag... I have to find some kind of gromet or rubber housing to hold it in place, I guess? In the mean time will idle ever normalize without it connected?
ldle is high, but she's running!!!
At first it was a strange pulsing with the idle,,, it would go up 1 or 2 hundred rpms in rhythm, then back down and back up. Entire cycle up to down 4-5 seconds. Then, I disconned the Orange line to the marelli ecu,,, I noticed a change. Then I reconned and it flattened out. Idle is still to high. Is there a way to set idle manually?
Also. I get no battery or V reading. Ideas? Upon shutting down and restarting, batter seem weak. I guess I need to figure out away to read if alt is charging battery...
Also, in you all's experience what is "normal" for intake manifold temperature? These seem very hot. Almost as though I'm getting blow back from a stuck open valve? Compression test came back low but ok. Another thing that has me scratching my head is the imbalance in the draw of the air filter covers (sorry can't remember the name just now). B bank, if I put my hand to it the draw is strong. It'll pull my hand and idle changes. A bank,,, not even close to that and if I cover it completely, no idle change. A bank is the concern, I believe.
All FI seem to be firing with long screw driver to ear test.
Lastly (for now) if I shut her down,,, she doesn't want to restart. Will, but not easily, rightly, normally...
SAV is not crucial to idle with A/C off it makes no difference.
Cycling RPMs are caused by air leaks elevating idle above 1400RPM at which point the ECU turns the injectors off until it's under 1100(?) then switching them back on.
You arr running it with air filter housings in place right? Those bolt holes will do that. Also vac lines missing or broken, leaking intake manifold gaskets etc.
B bank intake supplies the air for the AAV ( cold idle air ) and should be much more airflow than A bank.
If your SAV has no grommet to go into on the filter housing then any suitable sized one will do.
Oh yes... Sorry JigJag... Air filter housings are in place and everything, less the SAV, is buttoned down tight and in place. All bolts holding filter housings are in place.
I was posting and adding links at car side. Sorry if my back and forths have been messy. I am still on my phone.
I believe it was Greg-IF that suggested I take off air tubing system that rode along top sides of intake manifolds... I hadn't plugged the main port OR plugged the little inlets that were fed by the piping where intake meets cylinder head.. Needless to say, I had quite a surprise at first start. That thing really BLOWS (the big tube) and, all of the little holes fed by the tiny tubing seemed to be producing a blowback per cylinder stroke that sounded like what I'd imagine the exhaust manifold would make IF it was partially leaking. I've temporarily plugged the little holes with tappered bolts and a dab of high heat gasket paste. Sound stopped. Left the main blower hole open. Once engine warmed it seemed to stop blowing or deactivated itself. With engine hot it was impossible to reach that deeply into the cavity to cap it. Will have to cap it first off on next go round.
Pretty good day today, with a long long way to go. Big thanks to everyone.
Think I have to start another post. Damn convertible motor and 1/4 windows stopped working for some reason. Any ideas? Had to switch it to manual and raise the damn thing by hand...
Looking forward to hearing what folks think and suggest!
07-13-2017, 06:14 PM
