Hello, finished refitting new rear wheel bearings on both sides. I have as much or more play than the old ones. Do I need thinner preload shims ? Thanks, Jeff

 

Am I correct in assuming that you have outboard brakes ?


If you have more free play you are correct you will need a smaller shim, as it allows the bearing to sit tighter/closer in the races.


Having replaced many rear hub bearings it is very unusual that a new shim is needed, especially if all you have done is just renew the bearing.


What was the reason for changing ?


Have a look at this picture and just check that you have everything back in the correct order.

http://www.jaguarclassicparts.com/uk...-4-0-6-0-litre



The correct Jaguar tool went through the loose hub assembly and preloaded the bearing, a slight amount of drag was required.


If we assembled the hub and found that there was a bit too much free play we would take a very small amount off the spacer see item 8 (NOT THE SHIM) using a flat metal surface and some emery cloth. The only problem with this was it was time consuming, as it was trial and error, but our stores department never kept any shims so it was do it our way or order shims and have the car on the ramp another day.


Are you sure your free paly is in the bearing and not the diff output shaft bearing ?

 

Just getting back to the car. Yes, outboard brakes. Pulled the right side apart and fitted a dial indicator. Showing .007 movement. Manual says .003 preload. I am going to remove .010 from the spacer later tonight.

 

Removed .010 from the spacer. Reassembled, no change. Removed the .121 shim and reassembled, lightly tightened. Still no change. Removed the hub and outer bearing . There is about .001 difference. Could it be the hub? There was no galling or color to the old bearings or the hub. Thanks for any help. Jeff

 

Are the bearing races fully into the hub?

There will always be a little free play. Are you sure the free play is in the bearing /hub and not the output shaft bearing??

 

Races are fully seated. all movement is in the hub. Thanks, Jeff

 

Where are you measuring your free play ? Are you fully tightening up the drive shaft nut.
It sounds like you know what you are doing but always good to recheck.

Were they original Jaguar bearings ?

 

Finally back to it, was waiting on new hub nuts. When fully assembled the nut was torqued to 115 pounds after converting from Newton meters. Measuring free play at the hub,pulling straight out. I pulled right side apart and reassembled with No spacer or shim. Hand tightened ,reassembled. Same play ! I am wondering if the hub is bottoming out on the axel? Both sides when reassembled are as they were before starting. Losing hair over this! Thanks, Jeff

 

Why am I recalling that the required torque for the rear nut is 230 lbs-ft?

I just did this. I found a loosened nut and that's what I ended up retorquing the nut to. (I have since ordered a new $25 nut and am waiting for a chance to put it on.)

 

Have you got the abs ring/rotor on and in the correct way ?

 

My JDHT Factory service manual shows 141 to 157 nm, 115 foot pounds on the hub nut. I am a bit confused after some further reading, It says a thicker shim is required to reduce the end float, which to me pushes the bearings further out of the races. Thanks for any input.

 

The ABS gear will only go on one way , it holds the inner seal in the hub. What is strange is that both sides have the same play as before any work. The passenger side has more than the drivers.