I took my Jaguar to a mechanic here in Colorado Springs based on the reference of a friend. So far, other than his inability to call (I have to call him for updates and info), I'm fine with the service. After checking out my car, he told me that the rear differential seals were leaking.

Today, he said that the differential is a Dana Differential. Does anyone know what model differential this is or is it a "home repair" and it could be anything? Did Jaguar/BL put a specific type of Dana diff in their XJ-Ses?

I'm starting to get impatient as it's been one thing after another. Obviously, I knew it would be a process. And I wasn't going to risk driving around with a leaky diff. But now my car is being held hostage by this issue. At least I'm tying up his lift!

He told me that Temken? Temkin? seals are what goes into it, but that no one in the US makes/carries them any more. Is this BS or true? Does anyone know where I can source new seals? How much of the rear end would have to be replaced if I switched the whole diff out with a remanufactured one?

Any help/suggestions/information/etc would be greatly appreciated.

 

Jaguar did use some Dana manufactured diffs in the mid-80s. My Jag parts catalog doesn't show any seals listed separately.

However, I personally can't imagine the seals being SO unique that they simply don't exist at all. Rather than regular parts suppliers has your mechanic tried a Jaguar specialist? Or a differential rebuild specialist?

Or has he tried a bearing specialist? Most towns bigger than Mayberry have one and they usually can supply bearings and seals for darn near anything ever built.

Maybe one of the guys from MotorCars Ltd. will chime in and bail us out.

Good luck
DD

 

As Doug said or,

Mine WAS a Dana, started the dreaded chatter in corners, and weeping output shaft seals, NOT leaking, just damp. I was working for Jaguar at the time, convenient, NO. Nothing available for it, only exchange output shafts ex UK, too hard.

I found a 2.88 LSD, from a S3 V12 and it was a Salisbury, it was complete, with subframe and new shockers. Simply swapped my springs to it, new brake pads, handbrake calipers cleaned and greased, swapped the frame assemblies, then sold the Dana assembly to a guy for a "cobra" kit car. I ended up out of pocket $65, so I did well I reckon, and it was all over in less than 1 day, so beer consumption was not delayed too much.

 

Doug,
I can start looking for bearing specialist in town. I just don't know exactly what to ask for. I don't know if the inboard brakes make a difference. All the research I did yesterday points to a Dana Spicer 44; all the parts I sourced for that seem to come for Jeeps. Not certain that they'll work.

The mechanic did say he was talking to a machine shop about possibly manufacturing some. I think it's overkill (not to mention it'll be more expensive) to do that, but I'm almost willing to do something like that to get my car out of there.

If I were to switch the diff out, how much of the rear end assembly would need to be swapped? I think Grant Francis was trying to answer this, but I didn't understand much of it... other than his beer drinking wasn't delayed much; I recognized that as a good thing!

 

If you find a bearing specialist bring the old seals to him for matching up. Or perhaps the old ones will have some ID numbers that he can use.

Do contact Motorcars Ltd. I'm sure this issue has come up for them and they might have a speedy solution. If not, try Coventry West. Both are reputable specialists and both have rebuild departments.

Grant's idea will certainly work. Salisbury differentials will be easy to find, used or rebuilt. You'll need to buy brake rotors, though, as the Dana diff used a different rotor. The rotors are not expensive. If you go with a Salisbury differential you'll find that replacement parts are easy to find. Removing the Dana differential and installing a Salisbury is gonna be a full day's labor, roughly, for an experienced Jag guy.

In Grant's case he swapped out not just the differential but the entire rear subframe which includes the differential, brakes, and suspension. You could do the same but you'd be introducing a lot of used parts into the game.

There are quite a few options but I think we're getting ahead of ourselves.

Cheers
DD

 

Okay, that's a good idea. However, I don't know that the old seals were the right ones; apparently they had a hard time pulling them out of the differential. I'll ask on those again.

I looked up Motorcars Ltd and they seem to have quite a few categories of differential parts (at a summary glance). I don't know much about all these parts, but thanks for the tip. I'll contact them and ask for some info/help.

So if I get a new(or different) differential, I'll have to buy only rotors as well? I was worried I'd have to buy the half shafts/brake shafts (whatever they're called) as well.

I certainly appreciate the help, pointers. I know it's not all the mechanic's fault and I'm aware I may be at least taking aim at the messenger if not outright shooting him... but I definitely am starting to feel I'm getting the run around from him.

Thanks, Doug, et al.

 

My apologies for making it over simple. I do that apparently, must be the 42+ years of maintaining all my Jags.

I had a similar situation as yourself, oil weeping, 'posi-drive" chatter, calipers needing seal kits, and non working handbrake, and NO Dana specific parts readily available. Looked at it from most angles, and decided to be rid of the Dana, could never understand the "no drain plug" design. As it happened I found a complete subframe assembly, but the centre assembly would have sufficed, as the half shafts and all other sundry bits are the same. I only swapped the springs due to the donor being a S3 Sedan, and the springs are a different part number between Coupe and Sedan, dunno.

It took me a day, about, but it was the 6th subframe I have done, so the brain new exactly what spanner to grab, how high to raise the car etc, and how hard to hit various items to free them up. The removal of the actual subframe from the car took less than 2 hours. The dissmantling and refurbishing of the subframe will take many more hours depending on what is actually being done.

I am glad you understood the "beer consumption", that is a good sign, mmm.

 

That's possible and as an avid beer consumer as well, I do find it annoying when things interrupt it.

I was poking around in the document in the FAQ a few threads up in this sub forum. My differential does have a drain plug which leads me to believe they don't know exactly what they have.

I have the option of buying another JXS for near as makes no difference nothing. I'm looking into it, but expect I'll have a similar problem.

Are there any identifiers on the casting of the differential that might help. The mechanic's closed on Mondays, but I plan to get some pictures Tuesday evening. Do you think that may help identify the diff for those of you who know what you're doing?

 

The Dana diff does NOT have the drain plug. The more common Salisbury diff DOES have a drain plug.

On the Dana diff the output shafts at each side of the case are held in by a triangular 3-bolt retainer plate. On a Salisbury diff it's a 4-bolt rectangular plate. (Note that this refers to the differential output shafts, not the drive axles. The drive axles attach to the output shafts)

If you have a Salisbury diff (and it sounds like you do) the all the parts should be a simple phone call away from a good Jag vendor like MotorCars Ltd or Coventry West.

It gets confusing because even the Salisbury diff is basically a Dana design....a "Dana 44" to be precise. However, they were not manufactured by Dana.

Cheers
DD

 

Just wanted to let y'all know: I picked up my car yesterday after work. So far so good... but for one issue. I'll post a new thread on that though. Thanks for all the help, guys.