'88 XJS rebuilt steering rack, tight spot
Rebuilt by Unisteer/Mavel.
Doesn't seem to be any issues turning left, but on right turns there is "tight spot" about 1/4 turn of the steering wheel from straight ahead is where it is noticed, kind of hard to turn into, then it releases and its like failing off a cliff, I "think" there may be another tight spot, not as bad, one more compete revolution of the steering wheel. Going to have to test drive it again to verify.
I don't think the rack is centered, if that makes difference, i read a post by Orangeblossom that said remove the grease fitting and manipulate the rack until a thin screwdriver inserted into the grease fitting spot, finds a hole in (the rack) to index into to locate center.
The rack was pushed around side to side as i rebuilt the front suspension,and I estimated rack center (turn side to side, count turned, divide by two, and reverse steering wheel from full lock, method)
Could being off center cause this?
Binding of U joint on steering column? But as noted, this only occurs one direction that i have noticed.
Something else to look at? Things are tight to get to down there, replacing the rack was simple with the motor out, motor in, not quite as freindly
Asa side note, I left all the bushing shaft nuts loose, drove the car 5-6 miles to settle the suspension, and then tightened the nuts on the upper and lower cross shafts. Car sat way too low before because the urethane bushes some PO installed had all disintegrated to nothing (metal on metal pivoting action). Car sits 2" too high now with new Metalastic bushes installed, so Going to have to deal with that. There are two spring spacer shims per side that can be removed, but that isn't a fun day chore. Removing the shims will probably only drop teh front end 3/4" or so.
I noticed the springs were in much better condition (no rust) that the control arms, so i assume the front springs have been replaced as well in the past.
Doesn't seem to be any issues turning left, but on right turns there is "tight spot" about 1/4 turn of the steering wheel from straight ahead is where it is noticed, kind of hard to turn into, then it releases and its like failing off a cliff, I "think" there may be another tight spot, not as bad, one more compete revolution of the steering wheel. Going to have to test drive it again to verify.
I don't think the rack is centered, if that makes difference, i read a post by Orangeblossom that said remove the grease fitting and manipulate the rack until a thin screwdriver inserted into the grease fitting spot, finds a hole in (the rack) to index into to locate center.
The rack was pushed around side to side as i rebuilt the front suspension,and I estimated rack center (turn side to side, count turned, divide by two, and reverse steering wheel from full lock, method)
Could being off center cause this?
Binding of U joint on steering column? But as noted, this only occurs one direction that i have noticed.
Something else to look at? Things are tight to get to down there, replacing the rack was simple with the motor out, motor in, not quite as freindly
Asa side note, I left all the bushing shaft nuts loose, drove the car 5-6 miles to settle the suspension, and then tightened the nuts on the upper and lower cross shafts. Car sat way too low before because the urethane bushes some PO installed had all disintegrated to nothing (metal on metal pivoting action). Car sits 2" too high now with new Metalastic bushes installed, so Going to have to deal with that. There are two spring spacer shims per side that can be removed, but that isn't a fun day chore. Removing the shims will probably only drop teh front end 3/4" or so.
I noticed the springs were in much better condition (no rust) that the control arms, so i assume the front springs have been replaced as well in the past.
Last edited by AZDoug; Apr 7, 2025 at 03:46 PM.
7.5" from bottom of cross member to ground now, so 1.5" too tall stance , I believe. It was about 4.5" with the disintegrated bushings, camber was way off also. with the bad bushes.
Doug
Doug
Just a thought, I had a saab power steering do this, felt super dangerous. Turned out it's the valve block in the rack. You turn in, all good then wooo all feeling goes and steering wheel has no resistance.
Use the 3/16” pin through the grease fitting hole to find center; it’s the only accurate way. Then check that the wheel is straight and that the toe in is correct. You can remove the steering coupler shaft without disturbing the rack to see if it is binding (known issue). Remove the oil filter for better access on V12.
My car was high when I replaced the front springs, don’t think it was 1.5” but might have been. Settled to correct height after about 500 miles and has stayed there for the last 6 years. I didn’t remove spacers, had 2 per side. Each changes height 3/8”.
My car was high when I replaced the front springs, don’t think it was 1.5” but might have been. Settled to correct height after about 500 miles and has stayed there for the last 6 years. I didn’t remove spacers, had 2 per side. Each changes height 3/8”.
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Noah
XJ6 & XJ12 Series I, II & III
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Jun 18, 2022 08:15 PM
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