i remember you posting on a different thread that you were looking to put a 500-600hp rebuilt motor in it? have you came up with any ideas for this? i was just thinking about this myself and since i am having so much trouble coming up with pre he heads cheaply i was wondering about stroking it to something like 6.4 liters? it would requite stroking the crankshaft, something im curious about doing, a company called Arden did it with a jaguar, and it had 430 hp. not your mark but somewhere closer than a stock he engine. just food for thoughts, tell me what you think?Jaguar XJS Coupé mark III ARDEN AJ 7 1.Hand !! orig.12500 km!! for sale: Anamera

 

Not all states here are like NSW

I will most likely supercharge the 5.3, drop the CR and install a centrifugal SC. You don't need to go flat heads to make good power especially with FI there is a twin SC XJS in the US that makes over 700hp on HE heads and Lister made 700hp from a 7.0l with twin centrifugal SCs on a HE.

Stroking you can offset grind the crank to accept 2.1 journal Chev rods giving 80mm stroke and with a bore to 93mm will yield 6.8l. The Jag crank has 2.3 journals so does not need welding. Some basic engine building techniques like hollowing the journals and radiusing for strength and fatigue resistance. If you stroke you will need new pistons so may as well bore to max which is 93.5mm on stock liners.

By changing to Chev rods you can save a kg of weight and that is rotating mass, lighter pistons and hollow journals you should save a couple of kgs.

Hope this gives you some ideas

 

Martin Jansen's Austin-Healey 100 with Jaguar V12 Engine supercharged v12. i want to go naturally aspirated for my car. having driven blower cars, i think it would just be easier to drive naturally aspirated on the road. although ive never driven a centrfical supercharged car, suposibl they spool up like turbos.

would i want to offset grind the crank to fit 80mm rods?

 

OH and the listers 7.0 used to burn out after about 20000 miles because of there bore stroke combination. just for your information incase you come up with that idea.

 

Before you prime, treat it with Phosphoric Acid & let it dry. That will convert any possible missed corners of rust into phosphoric oxide which prevents them from developing into ferrous oxide over time. Me, I'd prime with Fishoilene after, let that dry, then anti-rust paint or Tectyl (or similar). Since you are welding a new plate on afterwards, don't forget to treat the inside surface of that plate as well.

After that, I'd suggest that continuous welding of the whole unit to prevent any water getting in might be better than creating drain holes.

Cheers,

Languid

 

What amazes me is the inconsistency and the parochialism here in Aus. No two states have the same rules, and New South Wales (NSW) has the nearest thing to a regular check of a vehicle's roadworthiness in the country, with the only possible exception being the ACT (Australian Capital Territory- kind of like Washington) where I have heard that they have an annual check of some sort. I don't go there (too full of bureaucrats for my liking).

New Zealand has a system called Warrant of Fitness which applies to all cars, and Certificate of Fitness for trucks & buses etc. Licensed Inspection Stations or Inspectors only. The average grease monkey can't do it.

New vehicles are only required to be inspected every 12 months up to 4 or 6 years, after that every 6 months. No current WoF, off the road. Any minor defects, 28 days to get repaired, any safety defects, off & get it fixed before further use. You can only get an inspection done within 14 days of the current WoF expiry. If the vehicle fails the examination, you have 28 days to get repairs done without having to have another full inspection, but you can only take the vehicle to a place of repair - you cannot continue to use it.

Modifications afecting vehicle safety have to be licenced & approved, but ordinary modifications which effectively update such as putting on improved brake rotors or similar will pass the standard WoF.

Personally I don't disagree with their approach. At least you know that the chances of being hit by a rogue vehicle are much reduced. Now if only they could come up with a similar system of fitness for the drivers! The nut behind the wheel is still the worst hazard, & some of them are worse than a bald retread.

List 2: Inspection items
The following items are listed in the order in which they appear in the VIRM. All items

must be listed on a detailed checksheet.

Vehicle identification

��

VIN/chassis number *
Vehicle exterior

��

External projections

��

Dimensions

��

Footrests (motorcycle only)*
Vehicle structure

��

Structure
Lighting

Note: Cornering lamps, Daytime running lamps, Side-marker lamps, End-outline
marker lamps, Reversing lamps and Cosmetic lamps may be summarised into “Other
lamps”.

��

Headlamps

��

Front and rear fog lamps

��

Cornering lamps

��

Daytime running lamps

��

Direction indicator lamps (front)

��

Direction indicator lamps (rear)

��

Forward-facing position lamps

��

Rearward-facing position lamps

��

Side-marker lamps

��

End-outline marker lamps

��

Stop lamps

��

High-mounted stop lamps

��

Rear registration plate lamps

��

Rear reflectors

��

Reversing lamps

��

Cosmetic lamps
Vision

��

Windscreen *

��

Other glazing

��

Sun visors *

��

Wipers *

��

Washers *

��

Rear view mirrors *
Entrance and exit

��

Door and hinged panel retention systems
Vehicle interior

��

Seats and seat anchorages*

��

Head restraints *

��

Seatbelts and seatbelt anchorages * #

��

Airbags *

��

Interior impact *

��

Speedometer *

��

Audible warning device *
Brakes

��

Components

��

ABS self check *

��

Service brake performance

��

percentage (for decelerometers) and/or recordings for each wheel (for roller
brake machines)

��

Service brake balance

��

Parking brake performance

��

percentage (for decelerometers) and/or recordings for each wheel (for roller
brake machines)

��

tickbox for stall test (optional)

��

Trailer breakaway brake

��

Optional (recommended): Service brake recheck readings: percentage (for
decelerometers) and/or recordings for each wheel (for roller brake machines)
Steering and suspension

��

Steering mechanism

��

Suspension mechanism
Tyres, wheels and hubs

��

Tyre condition

��

Tread depth (recorded in mm)

��

left front

��

right front

��

left rear

��

right rear

��

Optional (recommended): Tyre tread depth recheck readings recorded in mm as
above

��

Spare wheel security (and space-saver tyre label)

��

Wheels

��

Hubs and axles

��

Mudguards
Exhaust

��

Exhaust system *

��

Visible exhaust smoke *
Towing connections

��

Towing connection
Miscellaneous items

��

Engine and drive train *

��

Fuel tank and fuel lines *
Alternative fuels *

��

Alternative fuels system in working order (Yes/No) *

��

Alternative fuels inspection certificate current (P/F) *

��

Alternative fuels system safe (P/F) *
Modified vehicle *

��

Valid LVV plate, declaration or authority card * (optional: add space to record

the LVV plate number)

In Queensland, the only time you have to get a 'Roadworthy' done is if you want to sell the vehicle. That is scary.
Cheers,

Languid

 

I was thinking I might have it galvanized, then powder coated. I just need to talk to the powder coating guys to see how powder goes over gal.

Problem here is the upper spring seats are open into the subframe, no way of welding them shut as they have the hole for the spring compressor, so what I have done is cut channels in the inner section for water to drain. I have also welded 2.5mm steel center supports to strengthen the bottom so the car can be jacked without damaging the subframe.

 

Yeah I moved from Perth 18 months ago and there no RWC at all even to sell a car you just drive them until they stop and leave them on the side of the road. Here in NSW cars under 3 years old do not need to be inspected until their 4th year then its annual inspection for the rest of your life. But you do not need to have a RWC to sell a car in NSW due to the annual inspections.

I am planning on modifying the car but I need to get it through NSW rego first then I will modify things as I go, mostly the things I will modify will not be picked up on the regular annual inspection.

 

I am thinking of getting mine powdercoated when i rebuild the front suspension. and the rear cage. i am going to do it in a blue or a purple. no particular reason i just feel like it would add some flare. and i enjoy adding bright colors to normallydull parts of my car. just my .02$

 

I want mine to out last me so gal first then powder coat

Here is what I have done to allow the water to run out of the bottom

 

about how long did it take you to get yours out?

 

I made an engine support, a couple of hours including going to buy the wood. Once this was done and I patched up my arm - angle grinder incident but that's another story.

It took about an hour to remove the subframe and have it in stripped, my trusty gearbox Jack made it easy.

 

This is what you get in a RUST FREE car.

I found this after removing the RH guard (fender for you Americans). There were NO tel tail signs but the rust had eaten a hole.

Pic 6 everything is welded in place and I began to add body solder - DAMN ran out of gas, so it looks a bit of a mess - but I decided to teach myself to lead fill panels - I can solder electronics been doin it for 30 years so how hard can it be to solder a panel instead.

I thought I would post the last 2 pics for anyone learning to weld. The 2nd last pic is a fire blanket I use to keep grinding and welding spatter off my glass - I made this mistake once and have a pitted windscreen in my daily driver. The last pic is a bit of steel wrapped in Aluminum sheet it makes a great heatsink for welding thin panel steel, especially where the bits have a gap. It will not stick to the panel steel because of the aluminum wrap.

 

Oops forgot this one..

I drilled a hole to allow water to drain. Water can get in there via the grill where the wipers are. As I see, this slopes downwards slightly so water can pool in the corner. The hole allows water to drain into the inner top support, just make sure the factory drain in the support is not clogged with sealer as mine was.

 

Jaguars have 1001 ways to go rusty. My rust bucket is 82 and both these sections are pristine, while you know what I had to fix all around.

 

Slow progress but I have the front subframe almost ready to go back in. Tomorrow I will turn up 2 new front subframe bushes as 1 of the originals had the hole slightly off center.

Everything black was painted in POR15 this stuff is great and screwing down against it barley scratches it.

The rack has been reconditioned by a local Jag specialist. New Bilsteins. I haven't painted the calipers yet will get to that some time this week.

I also have some 50mm high tensile rod that I am going to make bushes to go between the inner and outer wheel bearings so I can tighten the castle nut up and the bush will set the preload. I'll post pics when I have them made, there is quite a bit metal to turn off them so I think they will take a few hours to make on my small lathe.

The first pic is what I used as a spring compressor. I ended up re-drilling the lower pan mounting holes and re-tapping 7/16 as 2 of the 3/8 holes the thread was damaged.

 

Bilsteins?

 

Beautiful job, Warrjon. I fitted spacers between the inner and outer bearings on my rebuild. Here are a couple of pics. Just in case you are not aware (apologies if you are), the outer bearing part of the stub axle needs to be slightly lengthened by machining off a bit of the cone to give room for the the spacer to be inside the bearing. Also the spacers need to be made a bit too long, then reduced by a trial fit/ measure/ machine a bit off procedure on each hub. Absolutely great when done though. Pics here in case they are of use:

Slightly lengthened stub outer:


Spacer and stub:


Spacer fitted before trial measuring and machining the outer end of the spacer


Building up the hub for measuring, the hub is about to be dropped over the stun/spacer:


Still building up the hub, the hub is in place ready for the outer bearing inner race:


As you can see, in this pic we have everything installed, and the outside bearing's inner race is being held a bit off its outer race by the spacer. The amount it is being held proud by is measured by the difference, with spacer and without, to a common reference point (in my case the reference point was the shoulder on the stub at the end of the threads).



I was advised to go for zero to at most 1 thou max preload.
Greg

 

Thanks Greg the pics help a lot. It means I don't have to reinvent the wheel. I was planning 1thou this is what I set the rear at and once greased the end float reduced to almost zero.

 

Thanks Greg the pics helped, I made this today, took forever my SB (clone) 9" can only manage a 5tho cut in 4340. I'll make the other side tomorrow.

I didn't have to machine the stub axle they fit as is, maybe because they are new, who knows??

I did not have your forethought and decided to make these after I assembled the subframe so I ended up having to trial fit on the car, a PITA.