nice to see a TRUE labor of love , warrjon!! i thought that modifications were not legal in OZ. whats up with that?

might another approach to sub frames(and RUST) be just make them out of Stainless Steel, and TIG weld it together!!!!

and i must ask you WHY so much reengineering of the front wheel bearings?

my car is 33yrs old and no problems with axiel play in them.

THX anyway, keep up the good work.

ron

 

There is a lot of nice engineering going on in this thread and I don't use that word often.

 

Mods here are difficult and I do not know how legal this is. I assume as it does not modify the the original setup it is ok. For eg I can fit larger 4 pot brakes from the HSV to my daily driver as long as came from the same year model. I can not fit Willwood without having it engineered, I also can not go more than 2" wider than the widest wheels that were available from the manufacturer without having it engineered.

It's probably overkill for what will essentially be a road car. My reason for making these was the original bearings had spun on the stub axle, necessitating new axles, I came to the conclusion that as the bearings were a slip fit on the axle without a spacer to hold them they could spin again.

And I need to justify my lathe, lol

 

Finally back together. Now to get the radiator in and steering hooked up and I can fire her up

 

I decided to roll the lips on the guards to accept larger tyres, to my dismay the LH guard split - well you can see from the pic the rust when I just touched it with the grinder, BOY I am glad I bought a rust free car, can't imagine what a rust bucket would be like.

I didn't take photos of the cut out - any way I did cut the metal out and weld in new inner and outer.

My aim is remove all of the bog (bondo for you Americans).

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Before being file finished

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After File finished
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Lead? Wow, you don't find too many people around nowadays who know how to work lead! I was taught how to do it eons ago, but never actually DID it.

 

I taught myself, the hardest part is tinning the metal, but I have been soldering electronics for 30 years so I figured how hard can it be to do metal.

A lot harder than I thought but with some perseverance I have learned a new skill. My wood paddles are old wooden spoons works for me

 

Also getting Charice ready for a new coat of paint - and yes the rear end is out of the car again I was not happy with the job so out it came I should have it back in hopefully next week.

DSCN0040.jpg?t=1343249012

 

You have 2 coats on it already, so I are you going to strip her down now, or do the Armenian body shop style triple layer?

 

I am going to strip it bare metal so I can evaluate anything else on the body that needs attention. A big job I know but I have gone this far so I may as well do it right.

I found a bogy repair on the LH front guard above the headlight where it was full of bog and starting to rust above the headlight mount. All rusty metal cut out and I am in the process of welding in a new bit.

 

I feel your pain brother.

 

I didn't take a photo of this before I ground out the bog but you can see from the pic it's been repaired and not very well.

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Cut out ready for new metal

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New piece welded in this was a PITA with multiple curves

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Almost finished just needs final grinding and the headlight box bracket welded back on

DSCN0051.jpg?t=1343512057

 

Time I though for an update. I have been toiling away cutting my TRW front and rear bumper covers to bits in order to make them fit. These were new and supposedly made from original moulds.












New homemade stainless steel and aluminium bumber mounts- these will never rust.



Old mount




I also bout this 6.0L engine for my next years project.

 

AWESOME! its nice to see a 6.0 swap thats not a V8.

 

Just drop a running V12 in it!!! Oh wait, thought this was M90's thread

*runs and ducks for cover*

 

Warrjon
I notice that the cross pipe on the 6 litre has no filler spout, unlike the 5.3. Could you tell me where the header tank feeds into the coolant water system please, on the 6 litre?

I have a possible project for the winter to re-do these arrangements on my 5.3, and would like to know for that reason.

Thanks
Greg

 

Sorry Greg I have no idea. I bought this off eBay. there are a few differences if you notice there is no temp sensor in the water pump input elbow.

This is an early 6.0L with forged crank the later 6.0's had a cast crank.

 

@warrjon

You are a true craftsman sir !!

I remember a long time ago watching an old friend of mine lead fill the join on an e type between the rear wing and the body........ it was nothing short of art....

 

The rear bar was PITA, it was never going to fit without major surgery. I ended up having to cut it into 6 pieces. Then line it all up screw it in place with bits of wood and then fiberglass it back together. Atleast now it fits really well.

Ripples across the top of the bar without the sides pulled in.

 

Warren whoever you are you have too much time on your hands my friend... So many cars to restore why the XJ?