Did you determine what pin # that was that was deteriorated/broken on your ECU? Curious as to the function and if really related to your no start issue.

 

Yes if I am reading the order correct, and I think I am, 13 and 27 are completely corroded off.
13 -| Injector 3
27 -| Injector 5
( If reverse it would 10 & 24 ( Coil and MAFS))

But 26 is the CPS and 14 is a ground line so not sure if my issues was related to corrosion carrying over hence my low voltage reading.

In general I really only should be getting a misfire with any of those PINs issues but I was getting No Check Engine Lights and Only issues I had was the No Start.

 

Matt,

Apols if you mentioned it earlier, but what fault codes do you get if you interrogate through the OBDII?

Paul

 

To be honest Paul I have yet to scan her. I was not getting any check engine lights prior and no Flashing or Lights on during cranking. As originally I just had a No Start I was trying to first figure that out which lead me to the ECU. Not sure if any faults would come up with just the engine in the ON position.

 

You’d be surprised. I’d plug her in and see what active, and pending codes you might have.

Its amazing how few people invest $15 on an OBD2 reader....

 

Hey All. Took a break from the car for a bit after finding the bad ECU. So now the questions is where to get a new one. I called/emailed 4 ECU repair type places in the US with now luck. All will not repair pins. In honesty I was thinking about repairing myself and I believe I have a bit of good metal to make the connection.... just to check if it is the ECU that is causing my problem - but thinking I may just buy a replacement.

Places like Jagbits.com have them for $1200 but found 2-3 on ebay for around $400. With pay-pal payment I think I am safe if it is a dud but none of the pictures look like mine. Mine Reads LHE1410AH/61R and the units I am finding read LHE140AH601. Not sure here. My tag says " Remanufactured by Lucan Automotive LRZ 611 " . Not sure? Any help?

 

I have a tested ECU for your car in fact I have 3 so I lowered the price to $900 to give you a Forums discount and I offer a 6 month warranty hope this helps you buy from a trusted source!
https://www.jagbits.com/product/LHE1410-601-USED.html

 

Please make sure you have a VIN with that ECU. You’ll need it. You’ll need the VIN of the ECU when it gets plugged into a WDS or PDU

 

Hey Gary - thanks for the Link. I have purchases some items from you in the past and just recently so I know you have quality items. To be honest I might try the $400 option I found and if that fails I may take one of yours if it was like $600 no questions but for double the price I have to try this other one out. Been spending a lot of money chasing this problem lately.

 

Hey All. Been a bit and I stepped away form the car. Still not start and need some additional help. So last item repalced with EGR Valve. The issue with this piece is was getting super hot to the touch and at acouple points emitting a noise. Replace the unit and no longer have and issue there. I am still getting the TAC reading 1K RPM with just the key to the on position. If I unplug the new EGR valve that goes back down to 0 but no 200-300 rpm like it should. Verified Gas at Rail but will not get Spark. So pieces replaced in order.
- All Hela Blue Relays
- Fuel Pump Relay
- CPS (Crankshaft Position Sensors)
- ECU (Full unit)
- EGR Valve

With the issues at hand I think the CMPS (Camshaft position sensor) should be replaced or repaired. They make repair kits for this so it sounds like it is a piece that goes bad. Or should I just purchase a used one? The rebuild kids are more than then used pieces. Just not sure how to re-time the piece.

Any Help - Thanks Again!

 

MattVo29,

I'm not absolutely sure but don't think the Camshaft Position Sensor (or Engine Position Sensor as Jaguar call it) can prevent it sparking. It "merely" sends a signal indicating when No. 1 cylinder is on the firing stroke to speed up the starting sequence. A duff Cam sensor just means that the engine has to crank longer to work out when it's on the firing stroke.

Good luck

Paul

 

Paul | thanks for the reply

Yes. That was my original thought so I just bypassed it as I troubleshot. Now thinking maybe it is not sending any signal so the ECU has no idea when or how to even send that first spark signal out. It is out on in the open and forsure got wet when I cleaned the car. The electrical connect looks good but I think I had some moisture inside.

 

MattVo29,

That's a fair challenge but I've heard (anecdotally) that you can even disconnect it and it will still start, just cranks for longer trying to work out the spark timing. Certainly you can have it disconnected when running. I wouldn't say that they are a known sparking problem, so if you really want to change it, I would just put in a used one.

Paul

 

Hope everyone is doing well. Finally got my 96' XJS Started again with some help from a local traveling Mechanic. Ended up being the bad ECU and 3 faulty pins on the Harness. After that was resolved and the replacement ECU error codes cleared she started up and runs Nice. Took her out for about an hour last night and I think she ran even better than before.

Issues I am having now is she is starting but not starting. It takes a handful of cranks as I am thinking the ECU is trying to start the timing correctly. During the exploration on finding my issue I did replace the Crankshaft position sensor along with the Camshaft position sensor. Now the Crank sensor is simple and no adjustment but not sure on the Crankshaft sensor. As I found it was the ECU that was bad thinking maybe the original Crankshaft sensor could go back in? Or do I just need to adjust it. Once again after started she runs very smooth. I see VEE has had some experience with this.

Any Help

 

Nope. No adjustments are needed at either sensor...in fact there are none you can even make!

Now...did you happen to install the CAMshaft position sensor correctly? That could be your problem. When you removed the old one, did you make absolutely sure the new one was installed at the same position?

 

First Thanks Vee for your response.

I marked the location of the Old unit when pilled out with the new one and match the dot in the buble on the list.. Matached that to the new one..... But who knows. Could've very well got moved some how.

 

Do you have the camshaft sensor you removed? I’d recommend putting that one back on…just to see if it makes a difference?

Also, when you crank, and the engine doesn’t start, is the RPM needle moving? Where does it seem to move to?

 

I do have the original Sensor. No idea if it was bad or not as I just started replacing those items before I got to the ECU. That was on my list of items to do this weekend and see what happends

Yes the needle is moving to around 1,200 I would say. The mechanic I had onsite was thinking it has to do with the timing going to to the new ECU. As that ECU doesn't know correctly how to start with Gas/Spark delivery. He though that it just needed an adjustment and that unit can be.. Just didn't know how.

 

I’m assuming you meant 200rpm. That takes the CRANKshaft position sensor out of the running.

I believe installing the CAMshaft position sensor incorrectly could create this problem.

I’m trying to recall if I had a similar problem when I replaced my CAMshaft position sensor. If I did, and I think I may have, it went away on its own after a short while/few amounts of drives.

In the meanwhile, I’d fit that old part back on and see what happens.