My trunk lock button broke on the inside of the car. It is the plastic back section which connects to the exterior push button. I am really having a hard time finding the part. Part # BEC4568

Spoke to a couple of salvage yard which say they cannot help (probably too small a part and $ to be worth the time). Any ideas?

Thank you

 

I was lucky to come across a part on eBay for not a lot of money.


They must be a way to fix this. I believe I have posted photos in a previous post. Since I found a replacement, I haven't spent anytime figuring on a better fix, but sounds like you have that time.


I wish I could offer you a better solution, but necessity is the mother of invention... I was planning on creating some kind of metal band around the cylinder and drilling a pin through it so that it could actuate the lock release.

 

I wish I had time. I was going to take a good look at it and see if I can do something like placing in a new pin. I am just wishing I come across one first. The metal band may be a solution - good idea!

Thanks for the help.

 

I believe I have found the solution to my problem!


This video shows a perfect way of burying a steel wire within the head of the plastic latch end!

I'll try to take some pics of my finished product, but thought I would share in advance.

Now if only I could get a Moderator to fix Trank to Trunk in the title of this thread!!!

 

Matthias Wandel is an amazing guy.
Check his YouTube channel and be amazed at the stuff he designs and builds.

 

How is this guy still married? Amazing stuff he builds.

I had no idea when i stumbled upon his video, thanks for recommending a deeper dive.

 

I ground down the post, enough to slide a 3/8” OD stainless steel tube over the plastic shaft. I got the tube at a hardware/hobby store. They had it in brass too.

The length of the shaft will need to be about 45mm. I say about because it’s not super critical. You can be a bit sloppy here, just don’t make it a whole lot shorter.

Whats critical here is the hole for the pin. I used a 3/32” drill bit and it was about 40mm from the bottom.

I didn’t take a picture of the ground down plastic post, but because I am not perfect, there were plenty of ridges and imperfections along the shaft that the glue is going to love sticking into.

I tried running a narrow steel brush through the tube, but that didn’t seem to rough anything up. I had a conical Dremel attachment that fit inside the ID of the tube and I was able to scuff it up very well.

I soaked both pieces in some cleaner/degreaser left over from a POR15 project I did a few years ago and I was ready to go!

I ended up using a plastic welding epoxy, but now that the project is done, I think I should have just gone with an epoxy that specializes in bonding to metal, even though this particular plastic epoxy claims it works with metal too. As mentioned before, there are enough ridges and gaps for the epoxy to fill such that any cured epoxy would be able to grab and hold. It’s the bond to the metal that is critical here. Hopefully the dremel did enough scuffing to let this epoxy bite into it permanently.

Now I’m letting this thing cure out for 24 hours before I see if I can separate it with my hands. If I can’t, I’ll be satisfied and it will become my new permanent latch!

Here’s some pics.

 

My button broke last week and trying to get it out to try a fix. How did you get yours out?

 

You need to remove the (I think) three bolts holding the assembly in from the inside. Then it all comes out, lock cylinder and all!

 

forgot to ask: did your fix work?

 

Been working great ever since. No problems.